The electrolytics may be degraded but rarely in my experience if they are good ones to start with. Also those meters are battery powered so very little heat unless stored really improperly. And none directly affect calibration. My primary 8060A has not been touched since shipping except for batteries and its within calibration when I have checked. Its a well designed meter.
I've repaired a few 8060A's in my time. All components are standing like a huddle of penguins. Rarely replace the capacitors, common repairs are fading LCD/zebra strips, input protection burnt components and a few Q1 Jfet transistors. Sometimes the buttons pops off the case due to splitting - fix up with super glue on the split lines.
Due to absence of the rotor dial like on the newer multimeters, the 8060A is more reliable. As all Fluke meters are well designed and they can be serviced easily. The Fluke input protection circuits are very good to save the operator from dangerous situations. Fuses are voltage/current rated. Only dislike with me, the 8060A is not autoranging but has 4.5 digit display, i.e. 200V range is still good to read 20V.
1 Pascal=94dB
Due to absence of the rotor dial like on the newer multimeters, the 8060A is more reliable. As all Fluke meters are well designed and they can be serviced easily. The Fluke input protection circuits are very good to save the operator from dangerous situations. Fuses are voltage/current rated. Only dislike with me, the 8060A is not autoranging but has 4.5 digit display, i.e. 200V range is still good to read 20V.
1 Pascal=94dB
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