Hi,
I'm approaching this starting with an RPi5 & 8-ch DAC (DAC8X), I'll use CamillaDSP.
I want to pickup a stereo set of speaker woofers and tweeters as well as some amplification that will give me good sound so I can experiment with active crossovers. Budget AUD$1000.
I can solder and cut timber.
Thanks.
Richard
I'm approaching this starting with an RPi5 & 8-ch DAC (DAC8X), I'll use CamillaDSP.
I want to pickup a stereo set of speaker woofers and tweeters as well as some amplification that will give me good sound so I can experiment with active crossovers. Budget AUD$1000.
I can solder and cut timber.
Thanks.
Richard
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Some questions to help us help you:
I'd go for drivers which are well behaved and easy to work with and look at a project which already uses those drivers so you can assume they will work well together.
In Oz, you're pretty much limited to Dayton, Peerless, SB Acoustics, Vifa/Tymphany and Visaton, I think. Of those brands, SB, Peerless and Vifa will give you the best value as Dayton and Visaton have really crept up in price due to our $.
Geoff
- what proportion of the $ is for the speakers and amp?
- two or three way?
- woofer size and type (e.g. paper, metal)
- dome tweeter, or small full range for WAW project?
- desired cabinet size? Room size?
- music preferences?
I'd go for drivers which are well behaved and easy to work with and look at a project which already uses those drivers so you can assume they will work well together.
In Oz, you're pretty much limited to Dayton, Peerless, SB Acoustics, Vifa/Tymphany and Visaton, I think. Of those brands, SB, Peerless and Vifa will give you the best value as Dayton and Visaton have really crept up in price due to our $.
Geoff
Thanks.
The whole $1000 just for the speakers and amps, I already have the rest of the electronics and timber.
Room size 4m2.
No preference on speaker types.
I was sort of thinking of large bookshelf's with satellite sub's.
I listen to a pretty much all genres.
(Not sure if it helps) but I'm very happy with my main system:
MiniDSP SHD > Valvet A1r's > Salk Songtower RT's.
The whole $1000 just for the speakers and amps, I already have the rest of the electronics and timber.
Room size 4m2.
No preference on speaker types.
I was sort of thinking of large bookshelf's with satellite sub's.
I listen to a pretty much all genres.
(Not sure if it helps) but I'm very happy with my main system:
MiniDSP SHD > Valvet A1r's > Salk Songtower RT's.
Assuming the amp/receiver will be around $600, (e.g. a new mid range Yamaha) that would leave $400 for the drivers for the two main speakers and powered sub, does that sound right?
I'd ditch the sub and go for speakers which will play deep enough to avoid needing it, or you might be able to pick up a s/h sub for not many $$.
I'd suggest a 6" two way with inexpensive, but nice drivers such as SB16 and Vifa BC2TG, available from Wagner/LSK. Total driver cost about $160 plus $12 post. I've used them and the combo sounds really nice (passive crossover). Peerless 830657 is also good but needs a large cabinet for best bass output.
LSK has a 6" Vifa for $35 but I don't know anything about it except it was used in its MTM TL kits. It could work with the Vifa too. I'd rule out Dayton in that price bracket, even the DC160 is around $80 now. The SB and Peerless both sound better; however, the DC160 will give you the bass you need in a reasonably sized enclosure.
You could also go for s/h or new drivers which are surplus to someone's requirements.
4 sq metres is very small, is that a typo?
Geoff
I'd ditch the sub and go for speakers which will play deep enough to avoid needing it, or you might be able to pick up a s/h sub for not many $$.
I'd suggest a 6" two way with inexpensive, but nice drivers such as SB16 and Vifa BC2TG, available from Wagner/LSK. Total driver cost about $160 plus $12 post. I've used them and the combo sounds really nice (passive crossover). Peerless 830657 is also good but needs a large cabinet for best bass output.
LSK has a 6" Vifa for $35 but I don't know anything about it except it was used in its MTM TL kits. It could work with the Vifa too. I'd rule out Dayton in that price bracket, even the DC160 is around $80 now. The SB and Peerless both sound better; however, the DC160 will give you the bass you need in a reasonably sized enclosure.
You could also go for s/h or new drivers which are surplus to someone's requirements.
4 sq metres is very small, is that a typo?
Geoff
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The way I read it was that you want a system with two speakers and a sub-woofer, in that room you should have enough space for a stereo amp/receiver. As noted above, plenty of options.
Was I on the right track with a $400 budget for speaker drivers and a sub?
FWIW, I would go for a two way with SB16pfc woofer, Vifa tweeter or Vifa full range such as a TC-7 ($22), on stands. Plus a sub for the bottom end, if the budget allows.
Should give enough output for that size room.
Geoff
Was I on the right track with a $400 budget for speaker drivers and a sub?
FWIW, I would go for a two way with SB16pfc woofer, Vifa tweeter or Vifa full range such as a TC-7 ($22), on stands. Plus a sub for the bottom end, if the budget allows.
Should give enough output for that size room.
Geoff
Thanks, I'm reading and processing everything, I'll change the requirements a bit:
No sub
No amplification
$600 budget
I have an AV receiver in storage that I could use.
By near field do you mean will I be up close, then yes, I cant really get more than a few metres away from the speakers in the study.
No sub
No amplification
$600 budget
I have an AV receiver in storage that I could use.
By near field do you mean will I be up close, then yes, I cant really get more than a few metres away from the speakers in the study.
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These Wavecor drivers are particularly good :https://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/Wavecor-Mid-Woofer-WF168WA02.html,
I'd suggest an MTM with these tweeters: https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/ne25vts-04-vifa-1-dome-neodymium-tweeter
Total driver cost ~$480.
I'd suggest an MTM with these tweeters: https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/ne25vts-04-vifa-1-dome-neodymium-tweeter
Total driver cost ~$480.
Thanks, I ordered the Wavecor and Vifa drivers.
In my recent research I have stumbled over 2.5 way speakers and they sound interesting, I wonder would it be a good idea to make provision for DSP tinkering by having separate amplification going to each driver, so 6 mono amplifiers?
The next thing is enclosures, I have a sheet of birch ply, its nice to work with, any starting point for a box design that should sound OK with the Wavecor and Vifa drivers?
In my recent research I have stumbled over 2.5 way speakers and they sound interesting, I wonder would it be a good idea to make provision for DSP tinkering by having separate amplification going to each driver, so 6 mono amplifiers?
The next thing is enclosures, I have a sheet of birch ply, its nice to work with, any starting point for a box design that should sound OK with the Wavecor and Vifa drivers?
You can do a Google search on 'DIY speakers with this driver' and see what comes up, i.e. see what sort of cabinets others have used. Assuming you find a project which uses one, have a look at the dimensions and double the volume - that would at least give you a 'guesstimate'. I did a quick search but couldn't find anything, you may have more luck.
Or, you could download the free "WINISD" program and input the supplied woofer specs into that.
The Parts Express product page for that woofer suggests sealed volume of 04 cu (11.3l) ft for F3 of 87Hz, or 0.8 cu ft (22.6l) for vented, F3 48Hz. Not sure how accurate are those figures. Double the volume for two woofers.
Of course, there are several possible cabinet and vent configurations for any woofer, so I suggest doing some serious research and modelling before building.
Geoff
Or, you could download the free "WINISD" program and input the supplied woofer specs into that.
The Parts Express product page for that woofer suggests sealed volume of 04 cu (11.3l) ft for F3 of 87Hz, or 0.8 cu ft (22.6l) for vented, F3 48Hz. Not sure how accurate are those figures. Double the volume for two woofers.
Of course, there are several possible cabinet and vent configurations for any woofer, so I suggest doing some serious research and modelling before building.
Geoff
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PS check out this Q and A on the Parts Express page:
https://www.parts-express.com/Wavec...fe6Ce8dAgsVqeDA_yaptUrf5tIAVDyNKAVYD37IcEIkd_
Has some useful info and raises some issues for you to think about
This kit uses a very similar woofer to yours:
https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/m8-***-6-tm-speaker-pair-fully-assembled
Geoff
https://www.parts-express.com/Wavec...fe6Ce8dAgsVqeDA_yaptUrf5tIAVDyNKAVYD37IcEIkd_
Has some useful info and raises some issues for you to think about
This kit uses a very similar woofer to yours:
https://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/m8-***-6-tm-speaker-pair-fully-assembled
Geoff
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Please note this solution.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/3-way-dsp-amp.415065/#post-7734938
"Over excursion starting about 120 Hz"?
Thanks, I really don't know anywhere near enough to understand what this means, I should just set the CamillaDSP to not go below 120Hz?
How does having two of these in MTM configuration change things, it allows me to halve the wattage to each driver while still moving the same air, so I might get lower Hz because I'm putting less power in at 120Hz therefore excursion is less?
Learning some good stuff here!
I ordered some cheap TPA3255 boards to play with:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006640455408.html
While I'm testing, with an amp channel connected to either a Wavecor or Vifa driver, what protections should I put in place, I'm thinking a low voltage PSU, say 24V and maybe also a resistor on the input, also I'm not sure if I need any components between the amp output and the speaker, I don't think so (the DSP will allow me to make sure I limit the frequencies)?
Have a look at the modules from Erica.C, search in the forum for FFA001V3. The 2-way HB model is awesome for actives and has an integrated mains PSU so no mucking around trying to match up power supplies. I have had most of his range delivered to remote regional AU at very good value and no dramas
The H/B (high, bass) model can be used in many ways. As a 2-way active, as a full range driver and a sub in one box or a stereo pair of full ranges and stereo subs. The module has ample power to run small high end car audio subs to make some really small but powerful subs. Have a look at the JLAudio W3 series of drivers. Another sub driver is the SBA one in my thread. The link to the retailer is there, and generally they are very prompt at delivery, although I have had one issue with no updates regarding an out-of-stock driver that had been paid for which went on for a couple of weeks
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/workbench-sub.416022/#post-7760669
I can very highly recommend FR drivers for your mains over regular 2-ways. The ones with the pointy phase plugs from Tang Band seem the nicest for nearfield, but difficult and expensive to source from overseas. I use very similar units taken out from a powerful PC gaming system as its cheaper to do this way for me
In fact, for about AUD $240, I can get a very well working and sounding class H 30w+30w+140w amp, a pair of OEM versions of those FRs and an OEM version of the 7" Wavecor sub driver out of this gaming system, but this suggestion has a history of getting threads closed
I don't really understand those issues either - hopefully other members will advise you; in general, I think people use a 'protection cap' on the tweeter when testing to make sure it doesn't receive frequencies which are too low, and get damaged.
Geoff
I ordered some DS270-PR passive radiators to put on one side of the speaker because I want to keep this speaker as compact as possible.
So I think my next task is to download WinISD (is that the simplest one to do what I want, I can also see unibox and bassbox out there) and add everything in and have it spit out an air volume?
So I think my next task is to download WinISD (is that the simplest one to do what I want, I can also see unibox and bassbox out there) and add everything in and have it spit out an air volume?