(/me is newbie at the electronics part)
I've read of people who use atx pc power supplies for their projectors. I'm using an lcd wich needs 12v 500ma, so that shouldnt be a problem as pc psu's are 12v (I think :|).. I'm also using a slide projector bulb (will get a mh later). On the side of the bulb it says "24v 250w".. Will an atx psu be able to deliver something like that or will i need two power supplies?
I'm building my projector as small and compact as possible, and having a single power cord is a must. Preferably a single psu too.. I have the original transformer for the bulb. Would it be possible to simply split up the power cord and use and connect it to both the atx and the transformer?
I've read of people who use atx pc power supplies for their projectors. I'm using an lcd wich needs 12v 500ma, so that shouldnt be a problem as pc psu's are 12v (I think :|).. I'm also using a slide projector bulb (will get a mh later). On the side of the bulb it says "24v 250w".. Will an atx psu be able to deliver something like that or will i need two power supplies?
I'm building my projector as small and compact as possible, and having a single power cord is a must. Preferably a single psu too.. I have the original transformer for the bulb. Would it be possible to simply split up the power cord and use and connect it to both the atx and the transformer?
Well, your lamp is most likely halogen, and probably runs off AC voltage... so using the PC PSU is out of the question for that.
If it was DC, you could get 24V from an ATX PSU, however 250w would be seriously pushing it for just about any normal computer PSU's out there.
powering the LCD shouldnt be a problem.
you can split the 120V/60Hz signal from the wall to both the transformer and PSU without problems.
If it was DC, you could get 24V from an ATX PSU, however 250w would be seriously pushing it for just about any normal computer PSU's out there.
powering the LCD shouldnt be a problem.
you can split the 120V/60Hz signal from the wall to both the transformer and PSU without problems.
Your ATX supply wont give you 24 volts without some modification...if it can be moded to do it at all. Two supplies one cord coming to the box, get a cord reviever from a scrap supply to give you a clean entrance to the PJ box. Watch load on the single cord dont exceed "xx" according to spec's. Watchout for heating the supply too much maybe remove it's cover/case to increase air flow ( "open" electronic/electrical devices can kill you, keep this in mind)
Play safe with voltage! If you dont know, either make it your business to know or get someone who does. (disclaimer)
In the computer biz we dont fix psu's they work or we chuck'em.. good supply of fans out there and cord recievers folks...see your local "mom an pop" computer fixer...I bet he has a PILE of junk just like mine (had to move it outside it got soo big). I give away half a dozen bits of junk and 23 more show up the next week. If only there was a way to get the gold off the cards.........hmm heading to the "everything else" forum now....
zardoz
Play safe with voltage! If you dont know, either make it your business to know or get someone who does. (disclaimer)
In the computer biz we dont fix psu's they work or we chuck'em.. good supply of fans out there and cord recievers folks...see your local "mom an pop" computer fixer...I bet he has a PILE of junk just like mine (had to move it outside it got soo big). I give away half a dozen bits of junk and 23 more show up the next week. If only there was a way to get the gold off the cards.........hmm heading to the "everything else" forum now....
zardoz
Thanks for the disclaimer, zardoz, i forgot!
BE CAREFUL OUT THERE FOLKS!
Watch yourself around capacitors that have been in use recently, whether the devices are hooked up to power anymore or not!
for useless informational purposes.
you can use the +12 and -12 rails from the PSU to obtain 24V DC.
but its fairly usesless for anything which needs real power.
BE CAREFUL OUT THERE FOLKS!
Watch yourself around capacitors that have been in use recently, whether the devices are hooked up to power anymore or not!
for useless informational purposes.
you can use the +12 and -12 rails from the PSU to obtain 24V DC.
but its fairly usesless for anything which needs real power.
explanation....
I didnt advise the 24 volt sollution because that could in some way make me "cullpable" if this were to go badly wrong and burn down this fella's house. It would be operating outside it's designed parameters.
"No user serviceable parts inside"
zardoz
I didnt advise the 24 volt sollution because that could in some way make me "cullpable" if this were to go badly wrong and burn down this fella's house. It would be operating outside it's designed parameters.
"No user serviceable parts inside"
zardoz
PeterMitchell said:
If my memory is not too rotten yet of living in the US, i think that 24 v bulbs for slide projectors get a higher voltage in than just 24 v. I think they get up to to 35 pct more, making you want to have about 30 volts.
The reason why is, that this is the way to really make bulbs shine bright (and white), the disadvantage is the shorter life term of these bulbs used in these 'extreme' conditions.
just my 2 cents after having had experience with a Agfa slide projector who supplied about 30 pct more volts then the bulbs could take. those bulbs where an older type of about 55 volts
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