HOTSPOT
Motoracer,
Thanks for the clarification. 🙂 (I recognised John Goodman (lmho)).
THe technique I dscribed for one pixel can be used for the hotspot as well. When we make an airbrush image with a tranclucency or opacity part of the light at that section of the image is diffused by the opaque patch we printed on the transparency. The second thing that using the airbrush method to mask your hotspot can do, is that the with of the "bleed" of colour feathered to the outer edge of the hotspot can be adjusted so that the ink mimics the airbrush perfectly (ink from the printer I mean).
Look, just to try for yourself, go buy a pack of plastic transparencies from the newsagent or stationery place. grab a cheap can of pressure pack paint and practice on cardboard (use whatever colour you are using on the tape you have tried). Shake can, and spray a spot on the cardboard, then lift away from the cardboard vertically. You will get a wet spot of paint that is darker in the centre, and feathers away at the edge. now how much control you have over the thickness of the wetspot, and the feathering will depend on practice and the quality of the jet in the pressure pack. Either way, you will get an immediate idea of the concept I am describing, and god knows, if you are careful choosing the paint to work withthe heat and the tranceparency (I would not put paint on my OHP glass) you may just crack it without using photoshop (or similar) and an inkjet printer.
Remember, inkjet prnters and OHP transparencies are designed to go together! and the control a graphic artist has over the airbrush tool will definitely mask the intensity of the hotspot as it is magnified from the diffuser on the OHP fresnel bed via the optical lense in the reflector of the OHP head above.
that brings me to heat and a second post, which I will make later today.
Cheers
4ming
Motoracer,
Thanks for the clarification. 🙂 (I recognised John Goodman (lmho)).
THe technique I dscribed for one pixel can be used for the hotspot as well. When we make an airbrush image with a tranclucency or opacity part of the light at that section of the image is diffused by the opaque patch we printed on the transparency. The second thing that using the airbrush method to mask your hotspot can do, is that the with of the "bleed" of colour feathered to the outer edge of the hotspot can be adjusted so that the ink mimics the airbrush perfectly (ink from the printer I mean).
Look, just to try for yourself, go buy a pack of plastic transparencies from the newsagent or stationery place. grab a cheap can of pressure pack paint and practice on cardboard (use whatever colour you are using on the tape you have tried). Shake can, and spray a spot on the cardboard, then lift away from the cardboard vertically. You will get a wet spot of paint that is darker in the centre, and feathers away at the edge. now how much control you have over the thickness of the wetspot, and the feathering will depend on practice and the quality of the jet in the pressure pack. Either way, you will get an immediate idea of the concept I am describing, and god knows, if you are careful choosing the paint to work withthe heat and the tranceparency (I would not put paint on my OHP glass) you may just crack it without using photoshop (or similar) and an inkjet printer.
Remember, inkjet prnters and OHP transparencies are designed to go together! and the control a graphic artist has over the airbrush tool will definitely mask the intensity of the hotspot as it is magnified from the diffuser on the OHP fresnel bed via the optical lense in the reflector of the OHP head above.
that brings me to heat and a second post, which I will make later today.
Cheers
4ming
Good Idea 4ming
HI,
Thats it, use my printer with an OHP transparent sheet. Kind of what I was thinking, but never though to use my computer and photo shop...perfect. Thanks for the idea 4ming.
The tape I used was just regular scotch tape (sticky tape if your in the UK) but it's the type they call invisible, as it's not shinny, it's a matte or like opaque. I just tore off a bit and stuck it on the stage glass, no paint or marker or anything, just the tape and it seemed to diffuse the hotspot well (except for the outline of the tape).
I am gonna grab a few blank transparencies from work this week and try a few air brush sprays of different size, desity, transparency levels to find what works best. I guess I should use a white color in photo shop.
I also want to try just roughing up a circle with fine sand paper to try and get a finish like the sticky tape I tested, that way I can scuff a bit at a time, test, scuff harder, test again, etc... Plus I can try a bunch of different circles from the printer as well, all on the same sheet and move each test spot over the hotspot to see which is best.
My only concern is that the transparicy sheet will make my image dimmer.
But I think we are onto something by using the airbrush tool and print out the hotspot defeating circle on my inkjet, thanks for the idea 4ming, it's a new direction I had not though of.
HI,
Thats it, use my printer with an OHP transparent sheet. Kind of what I was thinking, but never though to use my computer and photo shop...perfect. Thanks for the idea 4ming.
The tape I used was just regular scotch tape (sticky tape if your in the UK) but it's the type they call invisible, as it's not shinny, it's a matte or like opaque. I just tore off a bit and stuck it on the stage glass, no paint or marker or anything, just the tape and it seemed to diffuse the hotspot well (except for the outline of the tape).
I am gonna grab a few blank transparencies from work this week and try a few air brush sprays of different size, desity, transparency levels to find what works best. I guess I should use a white color in photo shop.
I also want to try just roughing up a circle with fine sand paper to try and get a finish like the sticky tape I tested, that way I can scuff a bit at a time, test, scuff harder, test again, etc... Plus I can try a bunch of different circles from the printer as well, all on the same sheet and move each test spot over the hotspot to see which is best.
My only concern is that the transparicy sheet will make my image dimmer.
But I think we are onto something by using the airbrush tool and print out the hotspot defeating circle on my inkjet, thanks for the idea 4ming, it's a new direction I had not though of.
Scratches are innovative
Hey Motoracer,
UR welcome. I reckon the plastic-scratches are a bit of lateral thinking as a diffusion technique BTW.. very clever.
I'm in Australia mate!! 🙂 that's why I spell colour with a "our" sound pronounced "la" *lol*
I would start with a solid full Red colour and feather at 45 % and leave the opacity alone. Repeat on another spot for GREEN and again for BLUE. Once you see how the lamp effects the RED/GREEN/BLUE you can blend the colours to neutralise the lamp hue of yellow) or convert your image to CMYK mode for an additive selection of colours.
**NB** (I am guessing from here a little btw and writing like I know *lol* so please test and let us all know) It might be better to fit the transparency in the mirror AFTER all the illumination to reduce the impact of the transparency sheet itself on the image. I figure if the transparency is installed on the bed of the OHP you will magnify filtration of the plain transparency over the image prior to projection where as fitting it to the mirro may be less subtractive on the image What I do know is that if you convert your photoshop image from RGB mode to CYMK mode, that you can add colours instead of subtracting..
Good luck. I can't wait to see and read what were the results!
Hey Motoracer,
UR welcome. I reckon the plastic-scratches are a bit of lateral thinking as a diffusion technique BTW.. very clever.
I'm in Australia mate!! 🙂 that's why I spell colour with a "our" sound pronounced "la" *lol*
I would start with a solid full Red colour and feather at 45 % and leave the opacity alone. Repeat on another spot for GREEN and again for BLUE. Once you see how the lamp effects the RED/GREEN/BLUE you can blend the colours to neutralise the lamp hue of yellow) or convert your image to CMYK mode for an additive selection of colours.
**NB** (I am guessing from here a little btw and writing like I know *lol* so please test and let us all know) It might be better to fit the transparency in the mirror AFTER all the illumination to reduce the impact of the transparency sheet itself on the image. I figure if the transparency is installed on the bed of the OHP you will magnify filtration of the plain transparency over the image prior to projection where as fitting it to the mirro may be less subtractive on the image What I do know is that if you convert your photoshop image from RGB mode to CYMK mode, that you can add colours instead of subtracting..
Good luck. I can't wait to see and read what were the results!
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