220mH inductor in parallel, and 3.3uF capacitor in series. My research suggests this is a 6000Hz high pass filter.
Is this bobbin type inductor okay for audio applications?
Actually, this will probably blow up your tweeter unless you only play at very low volumes.
The capacitor looks like a unipolar aluminium electrolytic capacitor, which can only handle 1.5 V to 2 V in reverse.
The inductor looks like it has a way too high effective series resistance and a too low saturation current.
The capacitor looks like a unipolar aluminium electrolytic capacitor, which can only handle 1.5 V to 2 V in reverse.
The inductor looks like it has a way too high effective series resistance and a too low saturation current.
Check that the capacitor is of the bipolar (or non-polarised) type required for loudspeaker crossovers, i.e. it shouldn't have +ve and -ve ends.
For an 6 ohm tweeter crossing at 6,000 Hz using a 3.3 uF capacitor, I'd expect the inductor value to be in the order of 0.25 mH so your inductor is not suitable.
For an 6 ohm tweeter crossing at 6,000 Hz using a 3.3 uF capacitor, I'd expect the inductor value to be in the order of 0.25 mH so your inductor is not suitable.
I suggest you look to Wilmslow Audio for the type of inductors and capacitors used in audio:
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/components-and-accessories
If all you need is a simple high pass filter, then the use of a crossover calculator can get you in the ballpark with regard to component values.
https://www.claredot.net/en/sec-Sound/high-pass-cross-over-12dB.php
https://wilmslowaudio.co.uk/components-and-accessories
If all you need is a simple high pass filter, then the use of a crossover calculator can get you in the ballpark with regard to component values.
https://www.claredot.net/en/sec-Sound/high-pass-cross-over-12dB.php
Can you suggest components for an 8k crossover. My full range speakers supply a little treble, and I only want to supply a little air too balance my sub.
No I ordered the inductors and capacitors as specified by my research. I bought from eBay.
I actually have a lot of soldering experience from my job, but I've never used audio components before.
Use the calculator to which I linked. You simply need to input the tweeter's nominal impedance and the required crossover frequency.
P.S. Perhaps you meant 220 uH and not 220 mH. If so your inductor is 0.22 mH, but is still not suitable for the reasons given in post #2.
@Matt888
Here are my suggestions for an approximately 8,000 Hz high pass filter based on available standard component values:
8 ohm tweeter: 1.5 uF & 0.15 mH
4 ohm tweeter: 3.3 uF & 0.08 mH
You'll find the required inductor values here: https://willys-hifi.com/collections...-10mh-22mh-3-tolerance?variant=30273544650811
And Monacor MKP capacitors here: https://willys-hifi.com/collections/mkp-polypropylene-capacitors
Here are my suggestions for an approximately 8,000 Hz high pass filter based on available standard component values:
8 ohm tweeter: 1.5 uF & 0.15 mH
4 ohm tweeter: 3.3 uF & 0.08 mH
You'll find the required inductor values here: https://willys-hifi.com/collections...-10mh-22mh-3-tolerance?variant=30273544650811
And Monacor MKP capacitors here: https://willys-hifi.com/collections/mkp-polypropylene-capacitors
Speaker crossover capacitors must always be nonpolar film or bipolar electrolytic types.
Polarized capacitors will not work.
Polarized capacitors will not work.
I'm confused. Why did you assume I took them from an existing speaker if they are not the right type of component? 😏
Have you any feedback regarding the suggestions I made regarding component values in post #9?
Or could it be that you don't know the nominal impedance of your tweeter?
Impedance is 6 Ohms. They are Dayton Audio PTMini-6 Planar Tweeters.
This thread is most confusing. They have been performing quite well with my apparently apocalyptic set-up.
If you want to settle for "quite well" then so be it.
You obviously had doubts about the components or you wouldn't have made the thread.
If you want the performance to be 'optimum' then I suggest you use the recommended type of component.
For a 6 ohm tweeter crossing at 8,000 Hz, use 2.0 uF and 0.12 mH.
P.S. 2.2 uF is the nearest standard value, but you may use two 1.0 uF connected in parallel (side by side) to get 2.0 uF.
If you are happy with the sound and if the inductor is really 220 mH and not 0.22 mH, then you could consider replacing the capacitor with a 3.3 uF bipolar electrolytic capacitor and leaving out the inductor altogether. The sound will be very close to what it is now without the risk of blowing up the tweeter when you turn up the volume a little higher than you usually do.
And even if distortion is quite high you will almost not here it anyway. Second harmonic will land on 16kHz which.... you almost do not hear.
Third harmonic will be at 24kHz so you can say that you have enhanced the experience by adding information that was eliminated in the recording! Cool!
Third harmonic will be at 24kHz so you can say that you have enhanced the experience by adding information that was eliminated in the recording! Cool!