Been working fine !!
thought I would take a peek inside to see what mods had been done (bought it with these)
Guess what ? yes it now does not work after reassembly
Powers on, display OK, loads CD then nothing - no spinning from the CD.
The transport does not seem to be jammed (can turn it manually)
Any ideas please
thought I would take a peek inside to see what mods had been done (bought it with these)
Guess what ? yes it now does not work after reassembly
Powers on, display OK, loads CD then nothing - no spinning from the CD.
The transport does not seem to be jammed (can turn it manually)
Any ideas please
hi
on this model one of the ribbon cables from mech to pcb is very tight and is easily dislodged, i would check this first
on this model one of the ribbon cables from mech to pcb is very tight and is easily dislodged, i would check this first
When taking it apart I did undo and remove the upper DAC board
Have checked the connector from the edge of the main PCB to transport - is it worth reseating ?
If I move the laser sled forward manually and power on then after a delay it moves towards the rear of the machine. After a further delay all the gears start spinning and making a loud clattering sound. At no point does the disc spin
Mods are Audiocom - Superclock 3 and various caps on the Dac board
Thanks for the replies so far
Have checked the connector from the edge of the main PCB to transport - is it worth reseating ?
If I move the laser sled forward manually and power on then after a delay it moves towards the rear of the machine. After a further delay all the gears start spinning and making a loud clattering sound. At no point does the disc spin
Mods are Audiocom - Superclock 3 and various caps on the Dac board
Thanks for the replies so far
You mean it moves away from the turntable. That doesn't sound good. You know it's something you have done. Apart from retracing your steps it sounds a bit like a supply has gone down, fusible resistor open circuit or a circuit protector gone open.
Forgive me I am not explaining myself well:
I searched the forum and found a thread about a sticking mechanism.
So I wound the laser sled manually towards the centre of the transport (horizontal plane)
When I insert a disc after a short delay the sled move outwards (in the horizontal plane) to the edge of the disc
I searched the forum and found a thread about a sticking mechanism.
So I wound the laser sled manually towards the centre of the transport (horizontal plane)
When I insert a disc after a short delay the sled move outwards (in the horizontal plane) to the edge of the disc
CD's play from the inner edge out. With the machine off and no disc in, if you wind the sled away from the center and then turn on it should return back to the center ( ie the turntable end ). If it doesn't something is very wrong. It could be anything from a supply rail missing to the master clock not working correctly.
Yes I checked the ribbon cable from the board to the transport.
also spoke with Audiocom today. The red LED lit under the Superclock is normal (indicates DC supply)
Also I found this burning of the Siemens part on the DAC board (which could explain the funny smell !!
also spoke with Audiocom today. The red LED lit under the Superclock is normal (indicates DC supply)
Also I found this burning of the Siemens part on the DAC board (which could explain the funny smell !!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That's a low power relay.
Two possibilities 😉 , someones been careless with holding the soldering iron and touched it -- easy done, or it's had a severe overload on the supply to the relay --- nah. If that were the case the whole thing would look like that.
Two possibilities 😉 , someones been careless with holding the soldering iron and touched it -- easy done, or it's had a severe overload on the supply to the relay --- nah. If that were the case the whole thing would look like that.
Possible, but to get it looking like that someone would have had to have been VERY careless.
The smell, was it like burning plastic?
The best way to test if it still works is to remove it from the PCB and measure between the contacts in powered and unpowered states.
Here's how: if you look at page 3 of the datasheet of this relay you see the terminal assignment.
- Pins 1 and 16: coil. To switch relay supply this with 12 V DC.
- Pins 4 and 6: You should measure nearly 0 Ohms between these pins when there is no power supplied to the coil. The same goes for pins 13 and 11.
- Pins 4 and 8: You should measure nearly 0 Ohms between these pins when 12 V is supplied to the coil. The same goes for pins 13 and 9.
If the wrong pins are bridged, or not at all, you either have a stuck or a burnt out relay and it should be replaced. If there is no audible clicking when you supply 12 V to the coil, than the relay is fried and again, it needs to be replaced. The replacement will most likely be an Axicom, but that's no problem, it's just the stamp on the top that's different. Type is the same for both brands.
The smell, was it like burning plastic?
The best way to test if it still works is to remove it from the PCB and measure between the contacts in powered and unpowered states.
Here's how: if you look at page 3 of the datasheet of this relay you see the terminal assignment.
- Pins 1 and 16: coil. To switch relay supply this with 12 V DC.
- Pins 4 and 6: You should measure nearly 0 Ohms between these pins when there is no power supplied to the coil. The same goes for pins 13 and 11.
- Pins 4 and 8: You should measure nearly 0 Ohms between these pins when 12 V is supplied to the coil. The same goes for pins 13 and 9.
If the wrong pins are bridged, or not at all, you either have a stuck or a burnt out relay and it should be replaced. If there is no audible clicking when you supply 12 V to the coil, than the relay is fried and again, it needs to be replaced. The replacement will most likely be an Axicom, but that's no problem, it's just the stamp on the top that's different. Type is the same for both brands.
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