Ive got some aquaplas on order that ill be using on some compression drivers and i should have some left over. Has anyone tried this on full range speakers? Lmk.
@GlaxzarTheFormidable
you must really take care how to use it on your fullrange.
I recommend to try first on some cheap no name fullrange drivers.
Many years ago I tried Aquaplas what is called in german "Wasserglas" which is a standard chemical in paper production to make very stiff paper for book hard covers and the like.
You must dilute pure Aquaplas or "Wasserglas" with water and use it only thinly on the cone. It can leave stains on the cone which does not look nice after treatment.
If you do not dilute the concentrated Aquaplas / Wasserglas it will stay on the outside of the cone, looks nice and glossy at the beginning and later using the driver the coating will crack and fall off the cone leaving an ugly look.
If the cone of your fullrange speaker is a thin one (like the fullrange drivers of Sica for example) than better do not apply any wet coatinngs on the cone! Leave it untouched!
It will throw wrinkles which can ruin acoustically your driver and optically it will be damaged for sure.
I prefer for hardening cones hair spray liquid which contains more fast evaporating alcohol and less water.
However if the cone is thin, do not apply this, too.
Thicker fullrange paper cones can stand water based treatment only if applied thinly - and let dry several days and then apply again.
If applied too much also more rigid or thicker paper cones will throw wrinkles!
I ruined like this several bass drivers out of inexpierence.
you must really take care how to use it on your fullrange.
I recommend to try first on some cheap no name fullrange drivers.
Many years ago I tried Aquaplas what is called in german "Wasserglas" which is a standard chemical in paper production to make very stiff paper for book hard covers and the like.
You must dilute pure Aquaplas or "Wasserglas" with water and use it only thinly on the cone. It can leave stains on the cone which does not look nice after treatment.
If you do not dilute the concentrated Aquaplas / Wasserglas it will stay on the outside of the cone, looks nice and glossy at the beginning and later using the driver the coating will crack and fall off the cone leaving an ugly look.
If the cone of your fullrange speaker is a thin one (like the fullrange drivers of Sica for example) than better do not apply any wet coatinngs on the cone! Leave it untouched!
It will throw wrinkles which can ruin acoustically your driver and optically it will be damaged for sure.
I prefer for hardening cones hair spray liquid which contains more fast evaporating alcohol and less water.
However if the cone is thin, do not apply this, too.
Thicker fullrange paper cones can stand water based treatment only if applied thinly - and let dry several days and then apply again.
If applied too much also more rigid or thicker paper cones will throw wrinkles!
I ruined like this several bass drivers out of inexpierence.
Sonically hardening fullrange paper cones make the driver sound harsh in the mids.
If the fullrange driver is then coated with aluminium foil (I have a thread on this) the harsh sound in the mids goes away as the aluminium foil dominates the characteristics of the paper cone driver.
So if I use hair spray liquid (I do not use Aquaplas / Wasserglas any more due to the danger to damage the cone with a watery coating) then usually I use aluminium foil one sided or both sided (=sandwich cone) to get a decent sonic result.
The end result is a much stiffer cone. Stiffening the cone is clearly audible and many coatings are a mix of more or less damping and stiffening.
There are:
varnish
wood glue
hair spray liquid
aquaplas / wasserglas
aluminium foil
I tried them all
If the fullrange driver is then coated with aluminium foil (I have a thread on this) the harsh sound in the mids goes away as the aluminium foil dominates the characteristics of the paper cone driver.
So if I use hair spray liquid (I do not use Aquaplas / Wasserglas any more due to the danger to damage the cone with a watery coating) then usually I use aluminium foil one sided or both sided (=sandwich cone) to get a decent sonic result.
The end result is a much stiffer cone. Stiffening the cone is clearly audible and many coatings are a mix of more or less damping and stiffening.
There are:
varnish
wood glue
hair spray liquid
aquaplas / wasserglas
aluminium foil
I tried them all
What does it looklikeand what does it smell like. Isn’t there info on the JBL site.
dave
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I did some tile work (shower) and used this membrane I had to wonder after working with it if it would be a suitable "aquaplas" type of treatment for speaker cones.
This is the stuff i purchased. Site claims to be the original trademarked material used for jbl. Although they since have added graphene to the formula.
OK, that stuff is kinda thick, and i’m guessing quite heavy. Enuff to significantly affect respsonce.
I would be careful on tweeters.
I prefer many thinner coats — i typically use a flexible PVA compound for decoupage.
Pictures when you get it, and what it smells like.Interesting that grapene has been added. Real amounts, or just enuff foe the marketing department?
dave
I would be careful on tweeters.
I prefer many thinner coats — i typically use a flexible PVA compound for decoupage.
Pictures when you get it, and what it smells like.Interesting that grapene has been added. Real amounts, or just enuff foe the marketing department?
dave
I messaged the seller on ebay and they said to thin it with water, spray appliction. I will be dappeling it on with a small round paintbrush. They said to clean any oil or contaminents from the area. They didnt say with what. I was thinking of trying isopropyl alcohol. Cover the dome and surround evenly. Only add 1-2 grams of dried aquaplas. I might try less since this may be an amount suggested for larger diaphragms. Hopefully this lowers distortion. Right now my compression drivers are around -42db thd above 3k. As far as full range drivers go i was curious of opinions. My markaudios break up alot at high volume and i thought maybe i could increase spl if i added this.
It should be here this evening. Maybe i will get to it this weekend. Usps lost it in transit, as usual, adding a few days to shipping. They need a fix bad.
This small jar is 170g. It smells like latex paint. The texture is like a whipped butter. Rubbing it dry between my fingers reveals small transparent but reflective flakes. Im guessing its mica but idk.
Also, Since im applying with a brush i think i wont dilute it. Maybe ill practice on this c4 can.
Also, Since im applying with a brush i think i wont dilute it. Maybe ill practice on this c4 can.
Attachments
If you have means to do it, it will be very interesting to have measurements before and after applying it.
I am thinking in basic frequency response and THD.
I am thinking in basic frequency response and THD.
ill post it here but i probably need to create a thread for the compression drivers. Ive been working with metamaterials as well.
related ?
https://ln271828.net/budget_3-way.htm
Wharfedale woofer
HiVi T20
PE 299-4212 mid with a plastic chrome dustcap
https://www.parts-express.com/03-0510-Speaker-299-4212?quantity=1
"
FIGURE 6
Now, we come to the solution of the aforementioned response peaks and dips. Note that two of these curves have no such peaks and dips and that has nothing to do with the gating process which removes room reflections by some 95% above 300hz.
The RED is midrange by itself without filters. The green is that of the midrange and tweeter only, with...
Wharfedale woofer
HiVi T20
PE 299-4212 mid with a plastic chrome dustcap
https://www.parts-express.com/03-0510-Speaker-299-4212?quantity=1
"
FIGURE 6
Now, we come to the solution of the aforementioned response peaks and dips. Note that two of these curves have no such peaks and dips and that has nothing to do with the gating process which removes room reflections by some 95% above 300hz.
The RED is midrange by itself without filters. The green is that of the midrange and tweeter only, with...