wondering if anyone use Milty permastat as a coating yet? its used as antistatic product for LP's ,, and should be permanent.
question is what resistance can we get? how well does it stick? and is it indeed permanent? and what does humidity do with it ?
looking for alternatives of lycron because in europe there is no way of getting licron.... weird enough. i once had a free can of the distributer after that no way of getting it.
question is what resistance can we get? how well does it stick? and is it indeed permanent? and what does humidity do with it ?
looking for alternatives of lycron because in europe there is no way of getting licron.... weird enough. i once had a free can of the distributer after that no way of getting it.
I would really doubt that. There should not be any residue left on a vinyl. Remember the radii of the pick-up needle tip.
Just a suggestion! Maybe a member could spray the licron on your mylar and send it back to you. I myself have 2 cans, but have not tried application yet, so I'm out, but others may be able to help out, shipping may not make it worthwhile tho.
Al
Al
It's probably a long shot, but have you called these Techspray distributors in the Netherlands? techspray.com - Distributors
yeah i called them. tomorow i hopefully call once more and get a sample.
if people are interested near or in the netherlands i will buy 12 cans. price will be around 40 euro ex shippin, for one can. people can even get ticket because i got a company so people can get there tax back if needed.
if people are interested near or in the netherlands i will buy 12 cans. price will be around 40 euro ex shippin, for one can. people can even get ticket because i got a company so people can get there tax back if needed.
ACL Staticide 6500 ESD Safety Shield, 8 oz Aerosol Spray Can, Translucent: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
ACL Staticide 4600-1 Ultra Floor Finish, 1 Gallon Bottle: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
It may require some tinkering... but what are we doing here anyway? 😉
hmm that top one looks promising. i looked a few hours yesterday for a permannt coating could not find any Thx, going to look for a datasheet
yeah it works temporary.. the dishwash will not work wehn humidity is low 🙁 and graphite is a pain to aplly and does not look to nice 🙂
i migth get a sample can of new licron soon. else im gone try the ink or the other antistatics mentioned above 🙂
They do supply the Licron in gallon jugs that is safe for shipping but it is like $180 to $220 or so per jug I think.
It is much cheaper per oz. in bulk but it is a heavy hit on the pocket book.
I have not tried the Staticide product but a few DIYer's say it works good as well.
But, It has been mentioned that the warning label for Bulk has a shelf life and one person said that his did go bad and not work after some time that it has sat on his shelf.
Maybe there could be a better method to store it after it has been open to keep it from going bad as it is quite an investment for just a few panels.
The Licron bulk product has no such label and it is a little bit cheaper (but not much cheaper) than the staticide as well, the last time I looked it up and this was discussed.
I can't tell you which if any of the two is any better than the other, just that they both work as far as the conversations are concerned.
I personally have only used the Licron brands so far and they do work very good.
I haven't had any issues over time while it is still in the can or cured on the diaphragm.
Even while I had environmentally tortured my little panels for 7 years before I fired them up 7 years later without even opening them up first to clean them.
They worked right away with the dirt and salt and whatever else that got in them through the screen stators.
In fact the last panel that I burned beyond use had a diaphragm that was originally made and coated the Licron regular back in 2003.
I have already posted the pictures of the hole that got burned in that one.
I got my First can of licron in 2003 and I still have a lot left (2/3 can) and have used it recently as well.
I started using the Crystal version since April of 2010.
Both versions of original diaphragm's were still working since they were First coated back in 2003 and 2010 in my last test that I did a year ago.
FWIW
jer 🙂
It is much cheaper per oz. in bulk but it is a heavy hit on the pocket book.
I have not tried the Staticide product but a few DIYer's say it works good as well.
But, It has been mentioned that the warning label for Bulk has a shelf life and one person said that his did go bad and not work after some time that it has sat on his shelf.
Maybe there could be a better method to store it after it has been open to keep it from going bad as it is quite an investment for just a few panels.
The Licron bulk product has no such label and it is a little bit cheaper (but not much cheaper) than the staticide as well, the last time I looked it up and this was discussed.
I can't tell you which if any of the two is any better than the other, just that they both work as far as the conversations are concerned.
I personally have only used the Licron brands so far and they do work very good.
I haven't had any issues over time while it is still in the can or cured on the diaphragm.
Even while I had environmentally tortured my little panels for 7 years before I fired them up 7 years later without even opening them up first to clean them.
They worked right away with the dirt and salt and whatever else that got in them through the screen stators.
In fact the last panel that I burned beyond use had a diaphragm that was originally made and coated the Licron regular back in 2003.
I have already posted the pictures of the hole that got burned in that one.
I got my First can of licron in 2003 and I still have a lot left (2/3 can) and have used it recently as well.
I started using the Crystal version since April of 2010.
Both versions of original diaphragm's were still working since they were First coated back in 2003 and 2010 in my last test that I did a year ago.
FWIW
jer 🙂
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Coating has been discussed over and over countless times.
Looking at the finished ESL one could easily say that each one costs quite few grands of material tools and efforts.
Would any of you dare to recommend use of expired coating having put such an effort into frame stators painting power supply x-formers to name a few?!
I personally contacted ACL about coating process, longetivity and applicability of aforementioned products.
Yes, shelf life of water based products starts when you open the package. Products cures when contacts with air.
I do not know whether it is chemical reaction with oxygen (it can't be moisture) or not neither I have a desire to figure it out.
Nevertheless, if you get 6300/6400 product you have SIX MONTHS to tinker.
ARE we making strategic stocks for the rest of our lives?
If you are not ready just do not purchase it before you are.
6500 is canned, so no such limitation exists.
BUT I've been told that bulk product is much better in terms of adhesion etc. than the aerosol one.
If $30 make you broke then use Calvin's recipe...
but remember, de.il is in the details: if it looks easy it's probably has something that definitely is not.
And yet another PLUS of acrylic based products - improper applied coating can be easily removed by acetone/thinner.
Best luck to everyone
Looking at the finished ESL one could easily say that each one costs quite few grands of material tools and efforts.
Would any of you dare to recommend use of expired coating having put such an effort into frame stators painting power supply x-formers to name a few?!
I personally contacted ACL about coating process, longetivity and applicability of aforementioned products.
Yes, shelf life of water based products starts when you open the package. Products cures when contacts with air.
I do not know whether it is chemical reaction with oxygen (it can't be moisture) or not neither I have a desire to figure it out.
Nevertheless, if you get 6300/6400 product you have SIX MONTHS to tinker.
ARE we making strategic stocks for the rest of our lives?
If you are not ready just do not purchase it before you are.
6500 is canned, so no such limitation exists.
BUT I've been told that bulk product is much better in terms of adhesion etc. than the aerosol one.
If $30 make you broke then use Calvin's recipe...
but remember, de.il is in the details: if it looks easy it's probably has something that definitely is not.
And yet another PLUS of acrylic based products - improper applied coating can be easily removed by acetone/thinner.
Best luck to everyone
Easier said than done.
That's exactly why I've chosen water based product: shipping. No carrier likes to ship flammable staff, including postage. Even if one agrees it will come with a price.
So, if there is no warehouse nearby with such product and we are talking about really niche one, you are out of luck... or you are to purchase 12 pack.
hi.
I use varmason´s esd floor polish (statguard) it have worked for about a year now, there have been no changes in sound or output at all, the statguard is waterbased, very easy to apply, very transperant and it sticks like hell to the mylar.
I own all of your great guys who helped me that time some pictures of my speakers, i will try and post some in a coupled of days.
I use varmason´s esd floor polish (statguard) it have worked for about a year now, there have been no changes in sound or output at all, the statguard is waterbased, very easy to apply, very transperant and it sticks like hell to the mylar.
I own all of your great guys who helped me that time some pictures of my speakers, i will try and post some in a coupled of days.
Thanks for the info on the ...floor polish ..........very transperant ....must be vary clear...an sticks like hell ........ an look clean with people walking on it day in an out.......i dont no if you could get it off the mylar?....... maybe Asatone.......
good to know........
Moray has talket of the floor wax
good to know........
Moray has talket of the floor wax
One can't always get what one want
Very old hints on what's been used by M.J. Dijkstra, arend-jan, JonasKarud, Capacity, Calvin, to name a few,
saved me a great deal of time and, you all know, something else, which is kinda hard to come by.
Still have a pile of useless OTHER "products" that were either pain to apply of just plain unsuitable for the task.
Sure there are better products, technologies etc... or are they somewhat unobtanium?
I could of used carbon magnetron sputtering, there is a company nearby that has an equipment to do that.
But
Are they willing to let me thinker with it to get the results I need stopping the production line?
Definitely not nor one would put the resources needed just to make very few sets of speakers... i.e. ONE
P.S."you'll get what you need if you TRY hard enough"(C)The Rolling Stones
Nice to know that some folks are INDEED READING and getting to the root of the subject in question.
Very old hints on what's been used by M.J. Dijkstra, arend-jan, JonasKarud, Capacity, Calvin, to name a few,
saved me a great deal of time and, you all know, something else, which is kinda hard to come by.
Still have a pile of useless OTHER "products" that were either pain to apply of just plain unsuitable for the task.
Sure there are better products, technologies etc... or are they somewhat unobtanium?
I could of used carbon magnetron sputtering, there is a company nearby that has an equipment to do that.
But
Are they willing to let me thinker with it to get the results I need stopping the production line?
Definitely not nor one would put the resources needed just to make very few sets of speakers... i.e. ONE
P.S."you'll get what you need if you TRY hard enough"(C)The Rolling Stones
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