Why bother with bodged-up expedients? Keystone sells the eyelets, the tool to set them (works fine, doesn't split the eyelets), and a drilled out bolt to set swage-in terminals. I got mine from Digi-Key, but I suspect that Mouser also sells what's needed. The 3/16 eyelets are what I use so that I can approximate plated-through holes for transistors/mosfets that need to be snugged down on to a heatsink, then soldered in from above.
I use this with light blows from a hammer on a hard surface: 7 PC Eyelet Tool Set and Hole Punch Setter Scrapbooking Card Making | eBay
It works good on Keystone #44 (1/8 inch hole). It does ok on Keystone #34 (3/32 inch hole) but the flare is too flat. I had a machinist make me a tool for Keystone #24 (1/16 inch hole). You need sort of an umbrella shaped recess in the tool so that the barrell flares out and curves down towards the board.
It works good on Keystone #44 (1/8 inch hole). It does ok on Keystone #34 (3/32 inch hole) but the flare is too flat. I had a machinist make me a tool for Keystone #24 (1/16 inch hole). You need sort of an umbrella shaped recess in the tool so that the barrell flares out and curves down towards the board.
I just ground a point onto an old drift punch,a quick tap with a 4 ounce jeweler hammer to flair it then I use an old bench anvil as the backer one tap to flatten. The back side does not need rolled edges anyway.
Tap Tap done.
Been doing it this way for a decade, never botched one.
Edit,,, the ONLY time I ever had an eyelet split was when it was to long for the board material.
Tap Tap done.
Been doing it this way for a decade, never botched one.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Edit,,, the ONLY time I ever had an eyelet split was when it was to long for the board material.
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BTW, I meant 3/32", not 3/16" in my last post. The 3/32" size is just right for both TO-220 and TO-247 package leads. I have 1/8" eyelets as well, but probably won't bust them out until it's time to do some custom mounting board stuff for tube projects where I might need to stuff several leads into one hole.
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I've only done a couple dozen eyelets at home in about half a century of playing with electronics but my approach is similar: use a center punch or similar pointed tool to start the flair, follow up with a pointed something that has a larger included angle (used to have a 90 degree pointed lathe center), and finish the job with a large nail set.
Looks like those punch and eyelet tools for the scrapbookers may be just the right thing, even if you end up removing the actual anvil and setting points, and mount them on a more suitable handle.
Dale
Repeating myself. I just buy both the tools and the eyelets form Keystone thropugh dDigi-Key and Mouser. You can get a tool to set the eyelets and also one suitable for setting terminals that rivet in place. I use eyelts a lot for interfacing large output transistors/ fets to single-sided boards. The parts go down on the heat sink with the leads bent up. These then pass through the eyelets which act like plated-through holes that can be soldered from above.
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