I am looking for a subwoofer project that could go up to 200Hz. I want to partner it with cloned Baltics (Cabasse design using TC21 tri-coaxial driver).
Cabasse is using originally for this purpose active subs Thor or Vulcan (discontinued) but I have no info on how they are built.
Could design like ElPipe from Nelson Pass be the solution ?
Cabasse is using originally for this purpose active subs Thor or Vulcan (discontinued) but I have no info on how they are built.
Could design like ElPipe from Nelson Pass be the solution ?
Well, I know the majority of 18's can go up to
300Hz, and 15's up to 500 Hz using a 4 inch
voice coil, so, unless your using woofers with
5 - 6 inch voice coils, you shouldn't have a problem.
Best Regards,
300Hz, and 15's up to 500 Hz using a 4 inch
voice coil, so, unless your using woofers with
5 - 6 inch voice coils, you shouldn't have a problem.
Best Regards,
My stimates of
Hi malisz
I've been looking at Peerless woofers for similar rquiremsnts.
These estimates are of the highest points to start a 24
dB crossover (Xo), to avoid cone breakup, based on :
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| | 1st cone | Start Xo | Qts | VAS |
| | breakup Hz | Hz to be | | |
| | | -36 dB @ | | |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| | (from | 1st cone | | |
| | pub-lished | breakup | | |
| | FR) | | | |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 25W/ 8565 | 1600 | 620 | 0.41 | 230 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 850146 | 1200 | 460 | 0.35 | 144 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 831857 | 1100 | 420 | 0.46 | 210 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 830452 | 600 | 230 | 0.17 | 90 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 830500 | 480 | 180 | 0.20 | 139 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 830669 | 1100 | 420 | 0.45 | 205 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
regards
Richard
Hi malisz
I've been looking at Peerless woofers for similar rquiremsnts.
These estimates are of the highest points to start a 24
dB crossover (Xo), to avoid cone breakup, based on :
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| | 1st cone | Start Xo | Qts | VAS |
| | breakup Hz | Hz to be | | |
| | | -36 dB @ | | |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| | (from | 1st cone | | |
| | pub-lished | breakup | | |
| | FR) | | | |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 25W/ 8565 | 1600 | 620 | 0.41 | 230 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 850146 | 1200 | 460 | 0.35 | 144 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 831857 | 1100 | 420 | 0.46 | 210 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 830452 | 600 | 230 | 0.17 | 90 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 830500 | 480 | 180 | 0.20 | 139 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|
| | | | | |
| 830669 | 1100 | 420 | 0.45 | 205 |
| | | | | |
|-----------+------------+-----------+-----------+-----------|

regards
Richard
I've used the Peerless 850146, and can recommend it. 10" with 18mm point to point x-max and composite sandiwich cone for around $65 u.s. -cast frame to boot. Will do 200hz easily, 3-400 even, with great bass (fs 22hz). Nice 10", hard to beat value.
regards, Jason😉
regards, Jason😉
Thansk for pinting out Peerrless. Actually I had very little knowledge about their products - wrong ! 🙂
From information on Peerless web page I concluded that they recommend to use these speakers in closed boxes with passive radiators. Is it they best way (working assumption) or can El Pipe or Allmighty project yield better results ?
Any projects you would especially recommend ? My objective is to use this sub in primary system (not home video) and therefore the neutrality of sound and seemless match with TC21's are the key screening criteria.
malisz
From information on Peerless web page I concluded that they recommend to use these speakers in closed boxes with passive radiators. Is it they best way (working assumption) or can El Pipe or Allmighty project yield better results ?
Any projects you would especially recommend ? My objective is to use this sub in primary system (not home video) and therefore the neutrality of sound and seemless match with TC21's are the key screening criteria.
malisz
For music crossed at 200hz, I recommend a dipole H-frame in regular/small room: http://www.linkwitzlab.com/proto.htm
If not(or large room), then sealed, no passive radiator. But I'm kinda fussy.
regards, Jason
If not(or large room), then sealed, no passive radiator. But I'm kinda fussy.
regards, Jason
Major thing, yo
if you go up to 200Hz, make sure you do stereo subwoofers, right next to or below the corresponding main speaker. Otherwise you will constantly be bugged in your listening because so much sound seems to be coming from the subwoofer that is in the corner of the room, rather than from the main speakers like it should.
if you go up to 200Hz, make sure you do stereo subwoofers, right next to or below the corresponding main speaker. Otherwise you will constantly be bugged in your listening because so much sound seems to be coming from the subwoofer that is in the corner of the room, rather than from the main speakers like it should.
Good point. If your crossing over above 80hz, you will want a stereo pair, especially for a dipole. Ideally within 1/3 of a wavelength at the crossover frequency. So (13,500/200)/3= 22" from center of midrange or closer.
regards, Jason
regards, Jason
diypole said:For music crossed at 200hz, I recommend a dipole H-frame in regular/small room: http://www.linkwitzlab.com/proto.htm
If not(or large room), then sealed, no passive radiator. But I'm kinda fussy.
regards, Jason
YES! I agree with diypole on using one or more dipole subs. Like in one of my other posts, I built one of these with some scrap wood and a couple of old 8" car subs and I still cannot believe the quality of natural bass that is reproduced though it. That's why in the next few weeks, I'm going to be building two dipole subs for my main system using two 15" drivers each!
I say go for it!!
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