I have what is a common failure for my car, the sealed relays in the door module failing from dirty contacts.
The relays are type JSM1-12V-5. I have attached the datasheet.
I can just buy replacements. As I know little about relays, I was wondering if this was a common form factor? Can hardier replacements be sought? TIA
The relays are type JSM1-12V-5. I have attached the datasheet.
I can just buy replacements. As I know little about relays, I was wondering if this was a common form factor? Can hardier replacements be sought? TIA
Many common form factors. The great thing about standards is there are so many to choose from. What I have no way of knowing is why you are seeing a failure. Undersigned? Without the car and a lot of testing. no way to know.
The Panasonic relays should be fine. I rewire all my Little British Cars and so I use the standard cube relays, Bosch or Hella only. The don't fit your PCB.
The Panasonic relays should be fine. I rewire all my Little British Cars and so I use the standard cube relays, Bosch or Hella only. The don't fit your PCB.
Use only relays rated for automotive use, since others may not hold up as well
under the extremes of vibration, temperature, thermal cycling, etc.
The trouble with relays on cars is they are DC so have a tendency to arc when turned off.
You could try putting a capacitor across contacts to soak up arcing a little.
You could try putting a capacitor across contacts to soak up arcing a little.
That sounds good Nigel, except that the relays are going onto a fairly complex SMT board that I don't have a schematic for. What value of capacitance would be big enough to have a positive effect yet still be trivial to drive by the unknown circuit? Would it be 2 caps, 1 across the NO pair and 1 across the NC pair?
It'll be hard to get a matching pin layout so it all depends on how much trouble you want to go to. How old is the car? How many times have you replaced the relays so far?
The one you referenced is a standard sealed automotive GP relay. They are spec'ed pretty similar across the manufacturers. The closest I can think of off the top of my head is the Fujitsu FTR-G1 series but you'd need to be willing to physically adapt.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/164/ftr-g1-12010.pdf
Some of the cube relays that TVRGeek mentioned would work well, but again you would need to physically adapt with flying leads etc.
In all honesty, if it is an infrequent occurrence, I would just buy a handful of the original relays and just change them like for like with a couple of spares for a rainy day.
Oh and make sure the window mechanism is well greased and moves freely, to lower the work required by the motor (lower the current through the relay).
The one you referenced is a standard sealed automotive GP relay. They are spec'ed pretty similar across the manufacturers. The closest I can think of off the top of my head is the Fujitsu FTR-G1 series but you'd need to be willing to physically adapt.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/164/ftr-g1-12010.pdf
Some of the cube relays that TVRGeek mentioned would work well, but again you would need to physically adapt with flying leads etc.
In all honesty, if it is an infrequent occurrence, I would just buy a handful of the original relays and just change them like for like with a couple of spares for a rainy day.
Oh and make sure the window mechanism is well greased and moves freely, to lower the work required by the motor (lower the current through the relay).
Relay failures are usually not the fault of the relay. They are usually just being used wrong (i.e. being asked to switch more frequently or faster than they should, or not driven properly so that the relay "buzzes" at open or close). Simply changing to another relay will not likely fix the problem and without a schematic you won't likely find where the problem lies.
So you have 2 choices: (1) Just stock up on the replacement relay and be prepared to change them when necessary. (2) Replace the module that the relay is on in the hopes that the new module will not abuse the relay as before.
Unfortunately there is no guarantee that (2) will actually solve the problem. There may be a design fault (in hardware or software).
Sorry for the not so good news...
So you have 2 choices: (1) Just stock up on the replacement relay and be prepared to change them when necessary. (2) Replace the module that the relay is on in the hopes that the new module will not abuse the relay as before.
Unfortunately there is no guarantee that (2) will actually solve the problem. There may be a design fault (in hardware or software).
Sorry for the not so good news...
Think about the numbers of year it worked an how much time you expect to keep the car .... does it need modification or just repair as it was ?
Thanks for all the advice. It is for power door locks, and there are 3 on each board in the door, so 6 total in the car. I did find a few different relays with the same form factor, but it looks like this has the highest ratings of all. I think I will do a straight replacement.
if it's door lock problems ensure that the solenoid's protection diodes are ok otherwise the inductive kickback will arc the new relay contacts.
is it the relays or is it the control switches? in my car audio (and starter) days it wasn't uncommon to encounter very dirty control switches and cleaning those sometimes required a partial disassembly of the unit just to get contact cleaner into the right places, and in some cases sticky drinks like coffee or pop that have enameled with time aren't going to be touched by contact cleaner they require steam cleaning and subsequent re lubing.
Well, it could certainly be the control switch. I have not disassembled anything yet. It is almost certainly the relays though, as that is a common failure on this car and much has been written about it. The control switch is part of a membrane type panel, it's just the lock function that doesn't work, all other buttons do, and the button still has a normal feel to actuation, same feel as all other buttons. Plus a set of relays is $13 and an new panel is $90.