They are selling Hypex modules as far I can see. Hypex seems class-D leader. This is their site with their boards dedicated to DIY, because on their main www site hypex.nl they have different boards, like for bigger manufacturers.
a. they're bloody expensive. Maybe so expensive that ready built is way cheaper?!
b. they're indeed a hype supported by good marketing/support and "Hypex seems class-D leader." helps 🙂
c. they need the good support as they fail above average IMHO. I have seen some sudden deaths with them.
d. who needs that insane amount of output power?
Maybe you could measure what power you'll really need (hint: a few Watts at most) for relatively normal efficiency loudspeakers and then the Merus MA12070 devices come around the corner. Very good experiences till now and they perform better than ICEPower 50ASX2 and TPA3116/8 for instance. It seems Infineon knows their stuff well as these class D chips sound/measure significantly better than older solutions and they are very low noise too. Class D is slowly maturing as could be expected as they are here to stay and they'll simply push older technology from the market.
Just for fun I bought a Aiyima A8 (89 Euro) and contrary to what I expected it sounded better than my DIY amplifier. It has too many opamps, too many ceramic caps, a few useless features and output filtering is not as it should be but still... Anyway, MA12070 and its newer and way higher output power brother MA5332MS are interesting developments to say the least. Sabaj A20a is also quite good. Best would be a device that has the recommended output filtering, as little opamps as possible, film caps instead of ceramic caps for coupling and a linear PSU. I am building one.
b. they're indeed a hype supported by good marketing/support and "Hypex seems class-D leader." helps 🙂
c. they need the good support as they fail above average IMHO. I have seen some sudden deaths with them.
d. who needs that insane amount of output power?
Maybe you could measure what power you'll really need (hint: a few Watts at most) for relatively normal efficiency loudspeakers and then the Merus MA12070 devices come around the corner. Very good experiences till now and they perform better than ICEPower 50ASX2 and TPA3116/8 for instance. It seems Infineon knows their stuff well as these class D chips sound/measure significantly better than older solutions and they are very low noise too. Class D is slowly maturing as could be expected as they are here to stay and they'll simply push older technology from the market.
Just for fun I bought a Aiyima A8 (89 Euro) and contrary to what I expected it sounded better than my DIY amplifier. It has too many opamps, too many ceramic caps, a few useless features and output filtering is not as it should be but still... Anyway, MA12070 and its newer and way higher output power brother MA5332MS are interesting developments to say the least. Sabaj A20a is also quite good. Best would be a device that has the recommended output filtering, as little opamps as possible, film caps instead of ceramic caps for coupling and a linear PSU. I am building one.
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No no, I'm not a marketer for Hypex products. I am just reading Hypex here, Hypex there... I don't even know if they sound good. TEAC AX-501 had good numbers on the analyzer but it isn't suitable for music listenig (I read an opinion that sounds cold and unpleasant an it is not recommended) Maybe it is suitable for taking measurements on it. The quality and interpretation of the measurements is important. I will not solder this Infineon chip. TPA at least has leads that are convenient for home soldering and medium-integration design and documentation that is friendly. I am most attracted to my own project, I like doing it.
Opamps do not change anything, their application is crucial and usually bad. Capacitors are important, yes. But that's just one link in a chain that has 20 links. Me myself I know my watt measures. I am ending my 55W amplifier often, and the 100/130W, measured, is perfect. This is QUAD welder, they are not some Japanese numbers built on 200VA transformer. I listen loud, I have quite a room and I do not disturb my neighbors, I guess 🙂
Opamps do not change anything, their application is crucial and usually bad. Capacitors are important, yes. But that's just one link in a chain that has 20 links. Me myself I know my watt measures. I am ending my 55W amplifier often, and the 100/130W, measured, is perfect. This is QUAD welder, they are not some Japanese numbers built on 200VA transformer. I listen loud, I have quite a room and I do not disturb my neighbors, I guess 🙂
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As for the Teac, 10 years ago, the Esoteric AZ-1 was the first good digital amplifier I had heard. It was driving Tannoys DC-10. It was good enough for me, very good combo, but my friend then claimed that there was no golden dust at the top of the treble, just like some tubes have. He was a little right.
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Hypex ucd is really good but something higher price then your budget. I use more then 20 years hypex products. But they are not my personal first choice. Last 10 years they lost the DIY community.
I think Sure(gremlin) with toroid, rectifier bridge, and two big elco’s will cost you about $170. You will have plenty power and a nice smooth sound.
The Merus devices are having also good reviews. Something i also like to try in the near future. My main amp at the moment is eigentakt purifi 1et400a with diy tube frondend.
I think Sure(gremlin) with toroid, rectifier bridge, and two big elco’s will cost you about $170. You will have plenty power and a nice smooth sound.
The Merus devices are having also good reviews. Something i also like to try in the near future. My main amp at the moment is eigentakt purifi 1et400a with diy tube frondend.
Thanks, I'm going to read all the Sure's thread. What are big Elcos? I don't know this name. Some big capacity electrolytics?
However, another kind of reference, a point of reference where you are. How else to evaluate the effects of your work. This black devil looks like a brave person's toy.
yes elco means electrolytic condensator. Just see the manual for Voltage and current. I think i used 50.000uf.