Picked up a similar pair of these at a church rummage sale for $5. Who has any ideas/ plans on what type of small 1st time project I could do with these drivers, OB, fullrange etc.?
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/deta...igh_fidelity_international_bookshelf_speakers[
http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/deta...igh_fidelity_international_bookshelf_speakers[
Last edited:
Hi,
Never cut and paste a link with dots in it, it never works.
Use the link and cut and paste the full address from the bar.
rgds, sreten.
Never cut and paste a link with dots in it, it never works.
Use the link and cut and paste the full address from the bar.
rgds, sreten.
My apologies. I thought that link worked fine .
They are a small bookshelf type speaker, even have a hole on the back to hang them on a wall. They say Type 22 RH 491 made in Holland the mid/woofer is AD7065/W8 It is a paper cone with a rubber surround.
I thought they felt quite heavy for the size of speaker so took a chance and got them that I might try a 1st time build and see if the DIY bug will infect me.
Thanks in advance
PS.I will attach a couple photos from my old cell phone.(sorry about quality)
They are a small bookshelf type speaker, even have a hole on the back to hang them on a wall. They say Type 22 RH 491 made in Holland the mid/woofer is AD7065/W8 It is a paper cone with a rubber surround.
I thought they felt quite heavy for the size of speaker so took a chance and got them that I might try a 1st time build and see if the DIY bug will infect me.
Thanks in advance
PS.I will attach a couple photos from my old cell phone.(sorry about quality)
Attachments
Remember being a newbie I am learning about things like ideal cabinet volume, dampening materials etc. My goal is DIY and not just using something off the shelf but to modify and have the enjoyment of building something myself.
So with that in mind. Any ideas then if I keep them as 2-ways(if the drivers aren't suitable for FR or OB) on a new cabinetry designs(something more interesting visually and sonically equal to or an improvement on the present boxes)? This way I can at least get my hands wet in building speakers and learning from my mistakes in an economical way.
Second, is there a downloadable program that you guys recommend for taking measurements of your projects sonic specs by using a good mic and recording playback through your speakers?
Last, since I posted this in fullrange is there a way it should/can be shifted to the proper forum if the best suggestions are to keep using these drivers in a 2-way config?
So with that in mind. Any ideas then if I keep them as 2-ways(if the drivers aren't suitable for FR or OB) on a new cabinetry designs(something more interesting visually and sonically equal to or an improvement on the present boxes)? This way I can at least get my hands wet in building speakers and learning from my mistakes in an economical way.
Second, is there a downloadable program that you guys recommend for taking measurements of your projects sonic specs by using a good mic and recording playback through your speakers?
Last, since I posted this in fullrange is there a way it should/can be shifted to the proper forum if the best suggestions are to keep using these drivers in a 2-way config?
Philips 22 RH 491 specs
Specifications:
Load: 20 Watt
Impedance: 8 Ohm
Frequency response: 55 - 20,000
Crossover frequency: 1.500Hz
Resonant Frequency: 70Hz
Speaker Units: AD0160 / T8, AD7065 / W8
Capacity: 7 liters
Dimensions: 300 x 230 x 180mm
Also mentioned was the following which is above me and is in French
the Thiele-Small parameters for AD7065/W8 are at:
Paramètres haut-parleur de THIELE et SMALL, sans filtre ni ampli
Specifications:
Load: 20 Watt
Impedance: 8 Ohm
Frequency response: 55 - 20,000
Crossover frequency: 1.500Hz
Resonant Frequency: 70Hz
Speaker Units: AD0160 / T8, AD7065 / W8
Capacity: 7 liters
Dimensions: 300 x 230 x 180mm
Also mentioned was the following which is above me and is in French
the Thiele-Small parameters for AD7065/W8 are at:
Paramètres haut-parleur de THIELE et SMALL, sans filtre ni ampli
That french page looks like a " spreadsheet" and it's very long indeed.
All of that data are derived from the data taken by measuring the driver alone, which needs a set like sweep generator for finding the Fs, but with Pcs it's much easier, and with a Dayton DATS even more.
So from the data reported on the back you have a 70 Hz box which usually means the F3 point...also 20 kHz will predictably be played at -3 dB 😕🙄
All of that data are derived from the data taken by measuring the driver alone, which needs a set like sweep generator for finding the Fs, but with Pcs it's much easier, and with a Dayton DATS even more.
So from the data reported on the back you have a 70 Hz box which usually means the F3 point...also 20 kHz will predictably be played at -3 dB 😕🙄
I see that the F3 point is 55 Hz ! Which is the same as in the tables shown in that site.
Going bigger 8-12 l can lower the resonant frequency and using a port adds an extra octave. Going much bigger, also...
I usually design the box around the woofer leaving the tweeter external, which can be put even below the woofer, and usually in axys.
A quick ear test if the tweeter performs satisfactorily and an eye on the parts of the crossover, or viceversa 😎
Going bigger 8-12 l can lower the resonant frequency and using a port adds an extra octave. Going much bigger, also...
I usually design the box around the woofer leaving the tweeter external, which can be put even below the woofer, and usually in axys.
A quick ear test if the tweeter performs satisfactorily and an eye on the parts of the crossover, or viceversa 😎
The Q of 0.3 and a Fr of 41 Hz strongly suggest a bass reflex box. The various tunings of a bass reflex box give a box volume of 7-10 L. With the serial resisistance of the coils a box a bit larger. Philips paper cone woofers are generally good with no nasty peaks in response that need a complex crossover. The tweeter is not bad either, the problem with that one is that it is very easy to mount them wrong and get bad results
WWDT
So flush mount is the thing you need one way or the other.
I would keep the crossover values but replace the electrolytic caps with the same values using cheap plastic film caps from Parts-Express or a similar vendor. I am sceptical about those fancy expensive caps in general and especially in the context of a budget project.
WWDT
So flush mount is the thing you need one way or the other.
I would keep the crossover values but replace the electrolytic caps with the same values using cheap plastic film caps from Parts-Express or a similar vendor. I am sceptical about those fancy expensive caps in general and especially in the context of a budget project.
@folkie,
my english is not the best. but what´s about with an Open baffle? these drivers work´s very good with it.
In the german HiFi-Forum are a lot projects HiFi-Forum - größte deutsche Community für Unterhaltungselektronik
if you need there some help,write and ask. 😀😀
my english is not the best. but what´s about with an Open baffle? these drivers work´s very good with it.
In the german HiFi-Forum are a lot projects HiFi-Forum - größte deutsche Community für Unterhaltungselektronik
if you need there some help,write and ask. 😀😀
With and open baffle there is a lot a eq that is needed and that might be outside the scope as I understand it. The driver should work well in the Jericho 08 from Hobby HiFI and also in quarter wave pipes. a 7" driver in an open baffle will have very limited output.
Your link previewed/worked fine when I quoted it, so don't know why it displayed incorrectly for you. I'm curious to see if mine works......
Philips "High Fidelity International" Bookshelf Speakers - Canuck Audio Mart
GM
Yesterday I picked up a couple more Philips speakers at a Thrift store in another town for $2 each. They had a single driver per speaker,it is a Philips AD 5060/w8 and from a quick search I guess it was a fairly decent driver used in some vintage speakers.
So now I have a new piece to the puzzle and more confusion as to where to start and which drivers to use for a 1st time build. I had almost decided to just build some new 7 litre cabinets for the AD 0160/T8 and AD7065 /W8 but now with 2-AD 5060/W8 in the mix should I change my original plans and include the AD 5060/W8? Is there something that the AD 5060/W8 can be used for separately?
I await your insights and opinions.....
Some Philips driver specs are at http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Philips - Speakers (1970~1980).pdf
So now I have a new piece to the puzzle and more confusion as to where to start and which drivers to use for a 1st time build. I had almost decided to just build some new 7 litre cabinets for the AD 0160/T8 and AD7065 /W8 but now with 2-AD 5060/W8 in the mix should I change my original plans and include the AD 5060/W8? Is there something that the AD 5060/W8 can be used for separately?
I await your insights and opinions.....
Some Philips driver specs are at http://www.cieri.net/Documenti/Altri marchi/Philips - Speakers (1970~1980).pdf
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.