Part of the platten or part of the mount?
If double sided tape is a potential solution, this seems like shear forces only in an application where you will be treating this with care? And so structural strength and resistance to separation is not as much a concern?
If so, have you thought of a rubber or urethane pad with some light spray adhesive (the kind that you can re-position)?
More I thinking more I get the impression the best would be an polyethylen glue (more elastic) or epoxy stronger and not so elastic, long open time roll over the big surface and take all into a wice for pressing....I think the metal plate doesnt need an extra elastic layer before panzerwood.
The panzerwood is the "vibration absorbing layer" so the metal plate needs to be as firm as possible to be glued to the first layer of panzerwood or what do you think guys?
The panzerwood is the "vibration absorbing layer" so the metal plate needs to be as firm as possible to be glued to the first layer of panzerwood or what do you think guys?
I use the VHB tape at work to bond wood to metal. I have also used it at home to bond tempered aluminum to canvas phenolic for a turntable plinth, similar to your application I think. The type I use is the thin plastic sheet (mylar I think) with acrylic adhesive on both sides. it is very thin, between 2 and 10 mils. depending on the thickness you order. The bond is very strong hence the name... Very High Bond
As with most products
The original art usually involves a petroleum product to make it work
and has a solvent involved as well. And usually superior for the most part.
Then regulation comes in for less fumes.
So you either have the original petroleum product, or a water based product which mimics it.
As mentioned use Epoxy ( solvent based)
Likely a million brand names, who either buy it from 3M
or have copied it.
Or just buy it from 3M and be done with it.
Or use the common brand name " Liquid Nails " ( Water Based)
Which is uber cool cause it has marketing tag lines like " Construction Grade Adhesive"
Either one will work, including likely hundreds of brand names.
Which are either solvent or water based.
And you can just read millions of marketing yada yada to overthink it.
Or basically as mentioned either a water or solvent based = Epoxy
Since this isnt a boat in water or high heat situation.
no need to go over any actual detail of what is a better epoxy.
The original art usually involves a petroleum product to make it work
and has a solvent involved as well. And usually superior for the most part.
Then regulation comes in for less fumes.
So you either have the original petroleum product, or a water based product which mimics it.
As mentioned use Epoxy ( solvent based)
Likely a million brand names, who either buy it from 3M
or have copied it.
Or just buy it from 3M and be done with it.
Or use the common brand name " Liquid Nails " ( Water Based)
Which is uber cool cause it has marketing tag lines like " Construction Grade Adhesive"
Either one will work, including likely hundreds of brand names.
Which are either solvent or water based.
And you can just read millions of marketing yada yada to overthink it.
Or basically as mentioned either a water or solvent based = Epoxy
Since this isnt a boat in water or high heat situation.
no need to go over any actual detail of what is a better epoxy.
Epoxy, contact cement, construction adhesive I like like Loktite PLC, etc... Any of these will work. The more important thing is the clamp. spend the time to make a totally non flexing clamp that will put enormous pressure evenly across the entire plane, to get it perfectly flat. point pressure clamps will cause waviness. I have a jig I made decades ago I glued three sheets of 19mm marine grade plywood together making two panels. Whenever I glue up plane to plane I sandwich the work between those fat panels. Then I clamp the crap out of it, many, many clamps and oak cross braces with a few pieces of paper to pressure the center more. And clamps around perimeter. The thick panels spread the pressure perfectly evenly. The resulting glued up panels are as flat as your granite countertops, and I know the glue layer has no thin spots from point clamps.
I use an acrylic epoxy for bonding those together. And somewhat new to me construction adhesives. They both have there places. The CA has a tiny bit of give, you can indent your finger nail in the surface after its cure. The acrylic becomes much harder. Or maybe it was to do with the type of adhesive I used.
Make sure the surfaces are free of oil from you hands and the manufacturing processes of the metal. They oil it to keep it from oxidizing. And any other contaminants.
Even if its not visible I'll wipe it down anyway. Because doing some things twice sux.
Further preperation was mentioned. I second JB Weld. And roughing up the surfaces. In some cases I'll even drill/ tap a few holes in the surface so it can grab hold even better, when using epoxy. Once the stuff leaches in there its not coming out. It depends what I'm doing and the importance the extra measure may be.
Depending how clean you want end result . To bond two sheets of opposing materials often I will opt for carriage bolts with poly locks. With epoxy or without. Again everything depends on something. Its not the cleanest end result with fastening hardware showing but its plenty strong.
Make sure the surfaces are free of oil from you hands and the manufacturing processes of the metal. They oil it to keep it from oxidizing. And any other contaminants.
Even if its not visible I'll wipe it down anyway. Because doing some things twice sux.
Further preperation was mentioned. I second JB Weld. And roughing up the surfaces. In some cases I'll even drill/ tap a few holes in the surface so it can grab hold even better, when using epoxy. Once the stuff leaches in there its not coming out. It depends what I'm doing and the importance the extra measure may be.
Depending how clean you want end result . To bond two sheets of opposing materials often I will opt for carriage bolts with poly locks. With epoxy or without. Again everything depends on something. Its not the cleanest end result with fastening hardware showing but its plenty strong.
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Does everyone seem to
think epoxies are messy except myself? Just go slow, and a little goes a long way.