21l sealed enclosure, separate compartments for mid/bass & other components. If I were to cut enough holes in the divider/brace could I theoretically reduce the space between the divider & the mid/bass? Make the entire thing less wide.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's what I meant about cutting holes in the divider. Is it as simple as calculating the volume of the entire shape minus the SLA/SMPS/tweeter/brace, or are there other concerns? It's 27 litres before taking away the occupied space.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Remember that the driver itself also takes up space which is between 2 and 3 liters for a 10" driver.
Ack, I presumed that would've been taken into account by the figures published by the manufacturer.
This one is 22.5802 litres after taking away the SLA/SMPS/horn/tweeter but before taking away the mid/bass driver, so it should be roughly 20 litres which would be Q=1.216 for fb=102.89Hz. I was rounding up on everything & guessed the conical dimension for the horn so it'd probably be pretty close to Q=1.2.
This one is 22.5802 litres after taking away the SLA/SMPS/horn/tweeter but before taking away the mid/bass driver, so it should be roughly 20 litres which would be Q=1.216 for fb=102.89Hz. I was rounding up on everything & guessed the conical dimension for the horn so it'd probably be pretty close to Q=1.2.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Not until late this month unfortunately, got my final year university exams to get through. I can start getting the parts I need ordered & shipped though, so it's all ready to start as soon as I finish (& have slept off the hangover...).
What's the consensus on the best type of wood to use for a boombox? I've modeled it with 12mm simply because the Boominator was made with 12mm birch ply. I'm guessing that whatever I use I'll have to paint/treat/seal to make sure it doesn't warp if it sits on damp ground?
I'm going to have to find a local joiner or a mail-order CNC place I guess, no way I can machine 12mm with a Dremel.
I'm going to have to find a local joiner or a mail-order CNC place I guess, no way I can machine 12mm with a Dremel.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It seems that the TDA892* family don't play well with 12v (the spec actually quotes +12.5v to +30v as the working supply) so a single NP7-12 won't be a good idea. I'm considering using 2x UL3.4-12 in series to give +24v 3.4Ah in virtually the same volume (~10% larger) & almost exactly the same weight (50g heavier). Would runtime on +24v 3.4Ah be similar or better than +12v 7Ah? My understanding is that the amp might actually be more efficient with higher voltage, so the current draw may actually be less than half of what it would be on +12v?
I'm interested in this project...but I don't understand the PS part...can you post me a scheme? How you charge the battery?
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