This amp was previously working, today it seems to have quit.
Be aware I've been using this amp with faulty supply wiring. Fused distribution block had a loose internal connection. This was discovered and repaired as of today.
JL 500/1, main board revision 10
Tested 10-pin connector.
Supply voltage: regulated 14.2v from bench power.
Pin 1: 0.0
Pin 2: 0.0
Pin 3: 0.54 v
Pin 4: 5.65v
Pin 5: 145 mV
Pin 6: 14.15 V
Pin 7: 0.0
Pin 8: 40.2 mV
Pin 9: 192.3 mV
Pin 10: 0.0
PCB looks pristine. No burnt soot, no bulging caps, no hot spots that I can identify.
Other than double checking power leads, I'm unsure how to proceed. Any guidance is appreciated.
Be aware I've been using this amp with faulty supply wiring. Fused distribution block had a loose internal connection. This was discovered and repaired as of today.
JL 500/1, main board revision 10
Tested 10-pin connector.
Supply voltage: regulated 14.2v from bench power.
Pin 1: 0.0
Pin 2: 0.0
Pin 3: 0.54 v
Pin 4: 5.65v
Pin 5: 145 mV
Pin 6: 14.15 V
Pin 7: 0.0
Pin 8: 40.2 mV
Pin 9: 192.3 mV
Pin 10: 0.0
PCB looks pristine. No burnt soot, no bulging caps, no hot spots that I can identify.
Other than double checking power leads, I'm unsure how to proceed. Any guidance is appreciated.
After continuing to browse threads, it appears my signal sense switch had some corrosion inside. After wiping the contacts a dozen or so times I'm magically getting a power LED again.
Shoot them with deoxit or PCB cleaner, work it back and forth multiple times to clear out the trash then blow dry with compressed air. Once dry inject WD-40 or the water displacing lubricant you’re most familiar with, you’ll never have another problem with those switches. This is what I’ve been doing for years now, I’ve not had a switch problem since I started using this cleaning method. The first thing (deoxit) is a solvent, which should clean the contacts out. The thin film oil that comes after should keep it from happening again.