Very profesionaly done, congratulation!
Edvin, do you planing to replace output and source resistors also (caddock`s vishy`s or similar), and what about silver wire, don`t you found it litle to bright (I tried and was not satisfate-perhaps just the mater of taste).
rgds Marijan
Edvin, do you planing to replace output and source resistors also (caddock`s vishy`s or similar), and what about silver wire, don`t you found it litle to bright (I tried and was not satisfate-perhaps just the mater of taste).
rgds Marijan
Man ..... there's some serious goddamn competition startin' up around here 😉
Very nice!
cheers, mark
Very nice!
cheers, mark
mefinnis said:
Thank you very much you all!
I must confess, the amps I have seen on the web lately upped the ante a bit ;-)
I have custom build the chassis, by binding the two heatsinks with two alu strips. I used 4mm plates for the top, bottom and back and 10mm for the front. I have put two alu strips on the bottom plate around the 2 trafo's to keep the plate from bending.
All plates are made by a german company
www.schaeffer-apparatebau.de of which I used their fronpanel program to draw these 4 panels. They costed me around 293 euro which is not cheap (but still the cheapest place I could find) but they are beautifully made. I bolted the chassis together with M5 bolts in threads I drilled and made (tapped) by hand.
I like to use the 'old' holco's only on the main PCB. I do not change the P2P wired fet's. I am using intertechnik MOX4 over there. I do like silver, I have nothing against it!
My bias is about 0.625V / 1.5 * 6 = 2.5A instead of the normal 0.585V / 1.5 * 6 = 2.345A .
Edwin
P.s. I will make a picture of my complete set tonight!
Edwin Dorre said:
Congrats, a great amp 🙂
I used schaeffer too, and i think its the simplest way to get individual plates.
Reinhard
Questin to Edwin:
I see you use the same stainless steel vandal resistant powerswitch as I bought recently for my Aleph 30 to built. But... it is an pulse switch which only connects or disconnects (depending on which tap you're using) when pressed.
How did you solve this problem?
I was thinking about some kind of set/reset circuit with auxiliary supply to activate a relay. In that case the switch will activate the circuit and the relay will switch on the amplifier.
I see you use the same stainless steel vandal resistant powerswitch as I bought recently for my Aleph 30 to built. But... it is an pulse switch which only connects or disconnects (depending on which tap you're using) when pressed.
How did you solve this problem?
I was thinking about some kind of set/reset circuit with auxiliary supply to activate a relay. In that case the switch will activate the circuit and the relay will switch on the amplifier.
Oooops!!
Sorry, I didn't completely read the previous posts. The answer is already in there, even a more simple (simple means good) solution: bi-stable relay.
Sorry, I didn't completely read the previous posts. The answer is already in there, even a more simple (simple means good) solution: bi-stable relay.
calculating output watts
I knew I have read it somewhere but I can't seem to find it now and I thought I'll ask the question on this thread. The question is .... how do you calculate (measure?) the actual output wattage of the Aleph amps? Assuming connecting to 8 ohms speakers.
I knew I have read it somewhere but I can't seem to find it now and I thought I'll ask the question on this thread. The question is .... how do you calculate (measure?) the actual output wattage of the Aleph amps? Assuming connecting to 8 ohms speakers.
The answer might be here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4175&highlight=power
Beautiful power switch, just like the commercial Pass amps... I did some digging, and thought I'd post my findings for other DIYers who want to get their hands on this switch.
From what I can tell, they're made by Bulgin in the UK. The model numbers of interest are MP0031 and MP0031/2. The /2 version just has a protruding button instead of one that is flush with the lip. See www.bulgin.co.uk for details They are momentary switches, so a bi-stable relay is probably necessary. For those of us in North America, they are carried by Allied Electronics and Newark.
I have a feeling we're going to start seeing a lot more of these appear on DIY amps now that the cat's out of the bag! 😉
From what I can tell, they're made by Bulgin in the UK. The model numbers of interest are MP0031 and MP0031/2. The /2 version just has a protruding button instead of one that is flush with the lip. See www.bulgin.co.uk for details They are momentary switches, so a bi-stable relay is probably necessary. For those of us in North America, they are carried by Allied Electronics and Newark.
I have a feeling we're going to start seeing a lot more of these appear on DIY amps now that the cat's out of the bag! 😉
Peter,
Thanks for the "measuring output power" link. Now, I need to get myself a signal generator. There are lots of information on bias adjustment too on that link.
Chad,
I assumed a bi-stable relay is a circuit board that requires it's own power. Do you have any more information on that? I looked in the link that Edwin provided but it's in a foreign language.
Thanks for the "measuring output power" link. Now, I need to get myself a signal generator. There are lots of information on bias adjustment too on that link.
Chad,
I assumed a bi-stable relay is a circuit board that requires it's own power. Do you have any more information on that? I looked in the link that Edwin provided but it's in a foreign language.
fcel said:
You could get a test CD with prerecorded frequencies, like Sterophile Test CD, or you could build generator form Rod Elliot pages.
I have seen it irl. It is even better looking than on the pictures.
Sound is not bad either (love those understaments 😉 )
Sound is not bad either (love those understaments 😉 )
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