pinkmouse said:
I'm getting the feeling I'm not the first person to have perforated an MW144 suround 😉
Tony.
Hmm, stupid stuff I have done... Where to start... 😀
The latest thing was when I was gluing the baffles to my speakers, I decided to use Gorilla Glue instead of PVA... So I read the side of the bottle and it said it foams up - "good" I thought, "there won't be any gaps"...
I wetted the surfaces, popped lines of sealant on the bracing and ran a line of GG round the outside edges, seated the baffle and weighted it down. So far so good. After a few mins I went inside for a cup of coffee, when I got outside again I could have been forgiven for thinking someone had let a cavity wall insulation foam bomb off inside the cabinet… loads of glue foam was pouring out between the cab and baffle… The stuff was everywhere! Cue me running for a roll of kitchen towel and spending the next 45 mins wiping glue foam from the outside of the speaker as it poured out…
Still, it worked OK. I just had to sand all the glue runs off the cab when it had dried….
The latest thing was when I was gluing the baffles to my speakers, I decided to use Gorilla Glue instead of PVA... So I read the side of the bottle and it said it foams up - "good" I thought, "there won't be any gaps"...
I wetted the surfaces, popped lines of sealant on the bracing and ran a line of GG round the outside edges, seated the baffle and weighted it down. So far so good. After a few mins I went inside for a cup of coffee, when I got outside again I could have been forgiven for thinking someone had let a cavity wall insulation foam bomb off inside the cabinet… loads of glue foam was pouring out between the cab and baffle… The stuff was everywhere! Cue me running for a roll of kitchen towel and spending the next 45 mins wiping glue foam from the outside of the speaker as it poured out…
Still, it worked OK. I just had to sand all the glue runs off the cab when it had dried….
Bummer Tony.wintermute said:
By the looks of those screws, you're using the type that take Philips or flat-head screw drivers. Definitely a no-no.
I've found that a good quality black #10 Philips head from Jaycar works just fine. When screwing them in, rub the thread on an old candle to make screwing in much easier. Also have the box laying down flat so that you a screwing downwards and as someone else mentioned, your sacrificial left hand around the shaft of the screwdriver while you're screwing it in.
wintermute said:
Not me. Honest. I was attending to mate's, erm, modifications.
Quickshift. The best way of dealing with gorrila glue is just to let it set completely, then use a scraper to get rid of the excess. Much less messy.
OK I'll beleive you Al 😉
LMAO at quickshift's gorila glue experiences 😀
David yes they are the dual phillips/flat head screws, I got them at Bunnings, I liked the look of the brass comoared to silver which was the only other choice, I was in Coffs Harbour and didn't have much of a selection 😉, I thought about self tappers but knowing my tendency to test test and then do some more tests, I knew I'd be pulling the speakers in and out a lot (to change damping materials stuffing etc), and thought I'd be asking for trouble if I used self tappers (eventually they would give out).
Good point about putting the speaker on its back, I was being lazy, and to make things worse it was sitting on a swivel chair 🙄 what was I thinking!!!!
I think part of the problem is that the nuts I put in aren't square to the bolts and bind a bit, they should be able to be finger tightened most of the way but no chance... I think I'll try and get some better ones, take out these nuts, enlarge the rear holes and araldite (carefully) in the nuts with the bolts holding them in the right place... either that or I'll get some screw in insert nuts (dream on 😉 )rthough I guess I'd still have problems with squaring them up.... I did find some at bunnings but they were m6 which is too big, also tryed a cabinet maker and they had something smaller than M6 but was still too big.
That's actually another stupid thing I did with this speaker.... I chamfered the rear of the drivers cutouts before I drilled the holes for the bolts/nuts. It is very difficult trying to center a drill (even in a drill press) on a hole that has a 45 degree angle on it
Tony.
LMAO at quickshift's gorila glue experiences 😀
David yes they are the dual phillips/flat head screws, I got them at Bunnings, I liked the look of the brass comoared to silver which was the only other choice, I was in Coffs Harbour and didn't have much of a selection 😉, I thought about self tappers but knowing my tendency to test test and then do some more tests, I knew I'd be pulling the speakers in and out a lot (to change damping materials stuffing etc), and thought I'd be asking for trouble if I used self tappers (eventually they would give out).
Good point about putting the speaker on its back, I was being lazy, and to make things worse it was sitting on a swivel chair 🙄 what was I thinking!!!!
I think part of the problem is that the nuts I put in aren't square to the bolts and bind a bit, they should be able to be finger tightened most of the way but no chance... I think I'll try and get some better ones, take out these nuts, enlarge the rear holes and araldite (carefully) in the nuts with the bolts holding them in the right place... either that or I'll get some screw in insert nuts (dream on 😉 )rthough I guess I'd still have problems with squaring them up.... I did find some at bunnings but they were m6 which is too big, also tryed a cabinet maker and they had something smaller than M6 but was still too big.
That's actually another stupid thing I did with this speaker.... I chamfered the rear of the drivers cutouts before I drilled the holes for the bolts/nuts. It is very difficult trying to center a drill (even in a drill press) on a hole that has a 45 degree angle on it
Tony.
pinkmouse said:
Cheers, I'll remember that for next time 🙂
I didn't know how much would foam out - I thought about leaving it but wondered if I would end up with a large ball of foam in the back garden with a speaker burried inside it somewhere.... 😀
I still have GG on my fingernails... 😀
I'd use silcone aculk/adhesive to repair the surround. It's both flexible and strong.
For driver fasteners I use hex socket machine screws. I glue in hardwood dowels and thread them for the screws.
For driver fasteners I use hex socket machine screws. I glue in hardwood dowels and thread them for the screws.
I've punctured through driver cones before, that was not fun.
So I decided to get a magnetic screw guide. Mine is a dewalt one, the black sleeve pulls up over drill bit and the screw itself. Since the sleeve covers the screw tightly it is impossible to slip off. Here is a picture of one.
Josh
So I decided to get a magnetic screw guide. Mine is a dewalt one, the black sleeve pulls up over drill bit and the screw itself. Since the sleeve covers the screw tightly it is impossible to slip off. Here is a picture of one.
Josh
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
wintermute said:
I'm sure there's plenty of places in Sydney like Keables in Mel, which sells absolutely top class stuff (high grade stainless, black, bronze, you name it). Search for "fasteners" or "bolts" in yellow pages. Also places selling marine stuff will have nice stainless gear (I like s/s!) which is normally more expensive than black stuff anyway. Capscrews, buttonheads, recessed, countersunk, hex, torx, tamperproof, you name it, Keables sells it !
Bratislav
Well I went to bunnings this afternoon, and found some shock resistant superglue. It seems like the way to go, it is more flexible than standard superglue and as a bonus the set time is 2-3 minutes, so I won't have an issue of woops that wasn't quite in the right place 😉 Also got some 5 minute araldite (epoxy) incase I have to end up using hex nuts instead of insert nuts.
Noah, nice Idea with the hardword dowels, do you actually tap the hole, would certainly be a lot more robust than self tappers in MDF.
Josh, I was using a hand screwdriver, I hate to think what damage I could have done with the battery operated drill!!! I had a look for the screw guide at bunnings but couldn't see one, will keep an eye out.
Bratislav,
Yeah it shouldn't be too difficult to get the screws/bolts, it was the insert nuts I was having the most trouble getting (and in the end wimped out and decided that since I'd already done one side with dodgy screws and hex nuts I might as well do the same for the other side, rather than redoing the first one.... yeah I should know by now that cutting corners doesn't work!!
I've sent off an email to Coventry fasteners today hopefully they have something appropriate, I think part of the problem is the length. I really need 30mm or more and this seems rare in M4 size especially with button head, I found some today on RS's web site, 30mm M4 but socket head, I'd prefer button.......
Tony.
Noah, nice Idea with the hardword dowels, do you actually tap the hole, would certainly be a lot more robust than self tappers in MDF.
Josh, I was using a hand screwdriver, I hate to think what damage I could have done with the battery operated drill!!! I had a look for the screw guide at bunnings but couldn't see one, will keep an eye out.
Bratislav,
Yeah it shouldn't be too difficult to get the screws/bolts, it was the insert nuts I was having the most trouble getting (and in the end wimped out and decided that since I'd already done one side with dodgy screws and hex nuts I might as well do the same for the other side, rather than redoing the first one.... yeah I should know by now that cutting corners doesn't work!!
I've sent off an email to Coventry fasteners today hopefully they have something appropriate, I think part of the problem is the length. I really need 30mm or more and this seems rare in M4 size especially with button head, I found some today on RS's web site, 30mm M4 but socket head, I'd prefer button.......
Tony.
Its actually way, way easier and much less likely to damage using a powered screw driver (i use a cordless drill, same deal really) than a hand one - because you dont have to push in nearly as hard 🙂
I try to avoid using hand drills where-ever possible, especially if its from 'scratch' and you have to drill the whole way in. I tend to get impatient, and impatient = mistakes for me.
Fastest way is generally the best, if it doesnt involve anything stupid, i find 🙂
I try to avoid using hand drills where-ever possible, especially if its from 'scratch' and you have to drill the whole way in. I tend to get impatient, and impatient = mistakes for me.
Fastest way is generally the best, if it doesnt involve anything stupid, i find 🙂
"Noah, nice Idea with the hardword dowels, do you actually tap the hole, "
Yes. I use slow speed on a cordless drill to run it in.
I back it out after threading a 1/4" or so, to clean off the wood dust that gets packed around the tap.
Yes. I use slow speed on a cordless drill to run it in.
I back it out after threading a 1/4" or so, to clean off the wood dust that gets packed around the tap.
OK so I have found some M4 button head allen key machine screws 30mm long 🙂 no insert nuts, but with the current state of construction I think that is probably for the best 😉
They didn't have any black ones in stock but should have them Thursday 🙂 so hopefully by the weekend I should have some better stronger faster screws in place 😉
I'm still not sure about the cordless drill 😉 Mine only has 5 torque settings, and well I'm not convinced it is safe 🙂 I twisted the head off a self tapper on the 4th torque setting 😱
Tony.
They didn't have any black ones in stock but should have them Thursday 🙂 so hopefully by the weekend I should have some better stronger faster screws in place 😉
I'm still not sure about the cordless drill 😉 Mine only has 5 torque settings, and well I'm not convinced it is safe 🙂 I twisted the head off a self tapper on the 4th torque setting 😱
Tony.
Hi Tony, if you want to try those insert nuts out then give me a shout. I swear by them over crappy t-nuts: http://www.madaboutsound.com/prod_det.asp?product_id=16
Maybe next project Vikash 🙂 I don't think I'd be able to get them in to be honest. I was thinking that I might be able to get some of the screw in ones (with the allen key head and outside thread) in but I've decided that I'm better off enlarging the holes at the back, sitting the hex nuts in, doing up the bolts (with some vaseline on them) and then carefully applying some 5 minute epoxy around the hex nuts. should get me out of trouble....
Next project I Think I'll take your advice, I imagine air mail for a few insert nuts wouldn't be hideously expensive!!
Tony.
Next project I Think I'll take your advice, I imagine air mail for a few insert nuts wouldn't be hideously expensive!!
Tony.
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