Hi!
So... because of different reasons, I'm having trouble realizing projects and instead I'm spending time planning and brainstorming around different project. Not the most productive times... And the building phase of projects works better on my sometimes troubling anxiety/depression.. Anyway, a new idea came to me the other night. After a quick session in sketchup:
Features:
- 3 - 4 inch full range driver in narrow open baffle
- 6 - 8 inch woofer in vented box
- passive crossover
Me/room:
- Small room, about 8 m2 I would guess
- listening distance about 1,5 m
- rather short to back wall
- very wide taste of music with focus in metal, acoustics, rock, country and cinema score
I have no experience of open baffle, but I think this would be a fun try. What I'm looking for and thinking with this design is a open and room filling sound. Could that be achieved?
What would you call this? Hybrid? Semi open baffle?
Suggestion on drivers? I'm considering a pair of mark audio. Have been looking at them for other projects. If this one fails I could use them in another build. But that is true for all drivers I guess 🙂
Crossover point I guess I have to see when I have decided on drivers, but I'm thinking 150-200 Hz. Thoughts?
Is it going to be tricky to power these with a single amp and passive crossover? I see a probability of the woofer needing more power than the FR driver. Depending on driver off course ...
Thanks you all.
So... because of different reasons, I'm having trouble realizing projects and instead I'm spending time planning and brainstorming around different project. Not the most productive times... And the building phase of projects works better on my sometimes troubling anxiety/depression.. Anyway, a new idea came to me the other night. After a quick session in sketchup:
Features:
- 3 - 4 inch full range driver in narrow open baffle
- 6 - 8 inch woofer in vented box
- passive crossover
Me/room:
- Small room, about 8 m2 I would guess
- listening distance about 1,5 m
- rather short to back wall
- very wide taste of music with focus in metal, acoustics, rock, country and cinema score
I have no experience of open baffle, but I think this would be a fun try. What I'm looking for and thinking with this design is a open and room filling sound. Could that be achieved?
What would you call this? Hybrid? Semi open baffle?
Suggestion on drivers? I'm considering a pair of mark audio. Have been looking at them for other projects. If this one fails I could use them in another build. But that is true for all drivers I guess 🙂
Crossover point I guess I have to see when I have decided on drivers, but I'm thinking 150-200 Hz. Thoughts?
Is it going to be tricky to power these with a single amp and passive crossover? I see a probability of the woofer needing more power than the FR driver. Depending on driver off course ...
Thanks you all.
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That ob on top would probably drop under 1-2khz.
Many ob have the woofer go pretty high in frequency.
Many ob have the woofer go pretty high in frequency.
Done several similar designs
I didnt pursue because I could not achieve enough SPL for rock using a single FR driver in OB. Bass also OB using U-frame.
The one on the right using PRV was loudest!
I didnt pursue because I could not achieve enough SPL for rock using a single FR driver in OB. Bass also OB using U-frame.
The one on the right using PRV was loudest!
Attachments
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Hestia Hybrid
Here is an idea that someone recently did. I was thinking of a similar build. Each driver is run without a crossover.
Here is an idea that someone recently did. I was thinking of a similar build. Each driver is run without a crossover.
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I would go with a MLTL design for the woofer, and a FaitalPro 3" driver on top OB.
That will bring your FR driver higher to listening heights and the MLTL gives you nice punchy bass.
The XO will be higher, like 500-600 Hz. I wouldn't ask a small 3" driver to perform metal at higher spl on an OB below that XO point.
It can be surely done with passive XO. A great tool for learning and designing XO is XSim, which you can find here at DIYAudio.
But..... The trouble is that OB need some space to breathe,so if you put the enclosure on the wall behind, there's no space for it to do it's thing. OB needs at least 1.5m from any wall.
If you want roughly the same design, check out the new MLTL from XRK on the thread 10F/RS225. That would surely be pleasing for what you need.
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
That will bring your FR driver higher to listening heights and the MLTL gives you nice punchy bass.
The XO will be higher, like 500-600 Hz. I wouldn't ask a small 3" driver to perform metal at higher spl on an OB below that XO point.
It can be surely done with passive XO. A great tool for learning and designing XO is XSim, which you can find here at DIYAudio.
But..... The trouble is that OB need some space to breathe,so if you put the enclosure on the wall behind, there's no space for it to do it's thing. OB needs at least 1.5m from any wall.
If you want roughly the same design, check out the new MLTL from XRK on the thread 10F/RS225. That would surely be pleasing for what you need.
10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST / WAW Ref Monitor
Very good advice in this thread.
Definitely echo the need for space behind the OB for it to sound right. My listening space is shared with the living room. Once we had kids and I had to push the speakers back up to the wall, the sound I loved was destroyed.
Definitely echo the need for space behind the OB for it to sound right. My listening space is shared with the living room. Once we had kids and I had to push the speakers back up to the wall, the sound I loved was destroyed.
I like 6' from the front wall when i had some acoustat spectra panel (open baffle electrostats).
That would make for a 12ms delay front bounce
That would make for a 12ms delay front bounce
Thanks for the replies 🙂
Nice looking speakers thou! Great job 🙂
Interesting and cool concept. Please share if you build.
I had my suspicions before, and considering the answers here I'm having doubts that my sketch will lead to good sounding speaker. But I have a backup plan. I'm thinking i can try mount the full range driver as open baffle and evaluate how it sounds, but if it doesnt sound good I will build an enclosure behind the baffle.
My intention with my sketch is to get a room filling sound. I don't want the feeling of the sound coming from the floor, even thou the speakers are low and standing on the floor. This was the reason I thought maybe open baffle would work. If it sounds bad with open baffle and I decide to place the driver in an enclosure instead, I'm thinking that maybe I should a third driver pointing upwards/backwards. Thoughts on this?
Nice looking speakers thou! Great job 🙂
Interesting and cool concept. Please share if you build.
I had my suspicions before, and considering the answers here I'm having doubts that my sketch will lead to good sounding speaker. But I have a backup plan. I'm thinking i can try mount the full range driver as open baffle and evaluate how it sounds, but if it doesnt sound good I will build an enclosure behind the baffle.
My intention with my sketch is to get a room filling sound. I don't want the feeling of the sound coming from the floor, even thou the speakers are low and standing on the floor. This was the reason I thought maybe open baffle would work. If it sounds bad with open baffle and I decide to place the driver in an enclosure instead, I'm thinking that maybe I should a third driver pointing upwards/backwards. Thoughts on this?
Where do you live?
I have 3 different setups, making a 4th, might be interesting to have a look and hear some things IRL. Could be that it helps you figure out what you're after and how to do it. There's not 1 correct solution, depends on your needs/wants/wallet/skills mostly.
Personally, I think the fun is to get as much as possible out of a relatively modest sum.
A passive solution can be fun, an active solution can also be fun.
I have 3 different setups, making a 4th, might be interesting to have a look and hear some things IRL. Could be that it helps you figure out what you're after and how to do it. There's not 1 correct solution, depends on your needs/wants/wallet/skills mostly.
Personally, I think the fun is to get as much as possible out of a relatively modest sum.
A passive solution can be fun, an active solution can also be fun.
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Hi, I'm working with a similar set of constraints that you have.
Powering with a single amp is possible with some passive crossover work.
I would suggest using dedicated amp the bass and mid-high. You can use passive line level or active crossover. I like the flexibility of active crossover.
I went with active crossover using pro audio crossover, DBX 234XS. Right now I'm running 2 way with 3.5" wideband covering 110Hz and up, and one subwoofer handling 110Hz and down. My final goal is to go 3 way, inserting a pair of midbass between the two.
In small rooms, I would suggest sealed enclosure for the mid high.
Most good 3-4" widebander should reach 150-200Hz comfortably, no worries here.
Hope that helps.
Powering with a single amp is possible with some passive crossover work.
I would suggest using dedicated amp the bass and mid-high. You can use passive line level or active crossover. I like the flexibility of active crossover.
I went with active crossover using pro audio crossover, DBX 234XS. Right now I'm running 2 way with 3.5" wideband covering 110Hz and up, and one subwoofer handling 110Hz and down. My final goal is to go 3 way, inserting a pair of midbass between the two.
In small rooms, I would suggest sealed enclosure for the mid high.
Most good 3-4" widebander should reach 150-200Hz comfortably, no worries here.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the offer. Might follow up that 😉 Live in Oslo myself.
I agree. Many solutions can be fun and sound good.