kanaddict said:
Hi kanaddict,
There is a DIY device that does just this. Here it is:
http://www.geocities.com/rjm003.geo/rjmaudio/diy_rack.html
I actually built one of these. I tried it once with a a pair of paralleled Blackgates. Couldn't really tell if it made a difference or not - seemed like there was still some burn-in after I installed the caps, but maybe I didn't burn them for long enough.
Also, maybe this type of circuit doesn't introduce a voltage that's modulated by signal running across the full audible frequency spectrum. In that case, perhaps the cap isn't burning in at all relevant frequencies? Again, I'm not terribly knowledgeable about the mechanics of how caps burn in.
If you have a bunch of caps to burn in, seems like you'd have to build a bunch of these cap-racks. For a pair of stereo ouput caps, you could probably parallel them like I did and burn them on one rack.
Best,
KT
KT said:
Hi KT,
thanks for the link and sharing your experience with the circuit. From what you said, I would think that the 9v voltage is not doing the job perfectly for cap that will carry the audio signal. One thing that could be done is to put the cap in series just before the binding post of some cheap full range speakers. This way the full audible frequency spectrum would be covered and the signal would be a lot more powerful then the one on the audio circuit....at least the part of the circuit before the chip. I'll probably do that with the input cap.
Regards,
Thanks for all of you guys' replies.
It seems KT is right. Black Gate needs a long burn in time. I have removed the stock power cap and found these two little Black Gate are now much powerful than they used to be.
kanadict,
Yes, I used 0.22uF Sonicap in parallel with the 0.33uF ones. But it seems not to be a good idea to use 2.2uF Sonicap as the input cap as the sound is too bright and the treble is a little bit strident. I think it would be better to try some beewax caps or paper in oil caps like Jensen as the input cap. But the drawback is they are very expensive. If you have a tight budget, I think can use Sonicap as the input cap and try to get some Russian 0.22uF paper in oil caps to bypass those 0.33uF to get better mid and treble. In fact, I will order some Russian paper in oil or Sprague Vitamin Q paper in oil caps to try the effect. I think it'd take one or two weeks. See if you can wait for my test result.
It seems KT is right. Black Gate needs a long burn in time. I have removed the stock power cap and found these two little Black Gate are now much powerful than they used to be.
kanadict,
Yes, I used 0.22uF Sonicap in parallel with the 0.33uF ones. But it seems not to be a good idea to use 2.2uF Sonicap as the input cap as the sound is too bright and the treble is a little bit strident. I think it would be better to try some beewax caps or paper in oil caps like Jensen as the input cap. But the drawback is they are very expensive. If you have a tight budget, I think can use Sonicap as the input cap and try to get some Russian 0.22uF paper in oil caps to bypass those 0.33uF to get better mid and treble. In fact, I will order some Russian paper in oil or Sprague Vitamin Q paper in oil caps to try the effect. I think it'd take one or two weeks. See if you can wait for my test result.
ac2005 said:
Thanks for the information. I'll probably try different combination (Solen, Sonicap, Mundorf). I have access to these at a decent price. Please let us know how you like the caps you ordered. I have tryed some Russian paper in oil 0.1uf in // with the input cap and don't like them much. They bring more details and a better dynamic, but the sound is not natural. Piano just don't sound right. When I put the Solen film cap, the piano sound as I expect it to be at the expense of loosing a little bit of details (compare to the Russian cap). That said, nether the Solen or the Russian caps have the appropriate burn-in.
Regards,
Hi!
Very nice amp - I'm envious!!
Just wondering if you'd tried down-sizing the value of the PS caps? Bit puzzled why they've specified 2200uF caps per rail, when the TA2020 datasheet says 180uF is sufficient? I know from people's experience with the Gainclones that smaller is sometimes better.
I've just has some 470uF 63v Elna Silmics arrive so I'll try these in place of the stock 2200uF ones and see if there's any difference.
Cheers,
- John
Very nice amp - I'm envious!!
Just wondering if you'd tried down-sizing the value of the PS caps? Bit puzzled why they've specified 2200uF caps per rail, when the TA2020 datasheet says 180uF is sufficient? I know from people's experience with the Gainclones that smaller is sometimes better.
I've just has some 470uF 63v Elna Silmics arrive so I'll try these in place of the stock 2200uF ones and see if there's any difference.
Cheers,
- John
Hi Mick!
Only just finished building the stock amp (the grand switch on is tonight!!), so I'll leave that running for a week or two, then try the 470uF caps. Rather have the gut feeling I'll prefer the smaller value, but we'll see
BTW love the photos on your site by the way - awsome!!!
- John
Only just finished building the stock amp (the grand switch on is tonight!!), so I'll leave that running for a week or two, then try the 470uF caps. Rather have the gut feeling I'll prefer the smaller value, but we'll see
BTW love the photos on your site by the way - awsome!!!
- John
I bought two vintage Sprague Vitamin Q 0.1uF and attached them to the speaker output as crossover. The result is good. Now vocal has better body and treble is less strident and agressive. But I think the value is not large enough. I have ordered some brand new Russian paper in oil 0.22uF and 0.33uF capacitors. They are darn cheap. US$21 for 20 pcs. I will try them when I get them.
Are West-cap and Astron paper in oil good? They are cheap too. I want to buy and try some.
Are West-cap and Astron paper in oil good? They are cheap too. I want to buy and try some.
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