I would go with the last version of the Low TIM from WMLeach.
I see no point in building the series-connected Double Barreled amplifier now that the MJ21195/96 are available with 200W SOA at 100V (the original MJ15003/04 started SOA reduction beyond 50V and broke down at 140V). To be really safe, just use one pair per 100W of output required.
If you want the challenge you could build the Sumo.
At one time I used to think you needed the cross-coupled dual-differential input, fully complementary from input to output.
A McIntosh MC2120 changed my mind on that matter. After adding some bypass caps to the MC2120 it sounded virtually the same as my Leach. The MC2120 has a single-ended diff pair with a Vas and resistors for current sources, a three transistor front-end! The output stage is similar to the Sumo triple with CFP driver stage.
The Sumo would probably sound a whole lot better with some good caps too, I just never got around to playing with it to find out. I still have a Sumo Nine (in its original box) that I wanted to do some more upgrades on, JB always used inexpensive caps.
I see no point in building the series-connected Double Barreled amplifier now that the MJ21195/96 are available with 200W SOA at 100V (the original MJ15003/04 started SOA reduction beyond 50V and broke down at 140V). To be really safe, just use one pair per 100W of output required.
If you want the challenge you could build the Sumo.
At one time I used to think you needed the cross-coupled dual-differential input, fully complementary from input to output.
A McIntosh MC2120 changed my mind on that matter. After adding some bypass caps to the MC2120 it sounded virtually the same as my Leach. The MC2120 has a single-ended diff pair with a Vas and resistors for current sources, a three transistor front-end! The output stage is similar to the Sumo triple with CFP driver stage.
The Sumo would probably sound a whole lot better with some good caps too, I just never got around to playing with it to find out. I still have a Sumo Nine (in its original box) that I wanted to do some more upgrades on, JB always used inexpensive caps.
I wanted to build a high power amp. And I thought that Ampzilla III would be it.
I know Leach amps by reputation only. What I found on the web about James Bongiorno amps was always positive.
I guess that Leach amp would probably be a safe bet.
What to do...hmm?
I know Leach amps by reputation only. What I found on the web about James Bongiorno amps was always positive.
I guess that Leach amp would probably be a safe bet.
What to do...hmm?
The Leach is a great amplifier. Simple, reliable and designed to be as tough as the proverbial out house. And lots of rave reviews by builders.
Points about the MJ21193/4 above are absolutely correct. These devices have great SOA capability.
My recommendation: build it!
Points about the MJ21193/4 above are absolutely correct. These devices have great SOA capability.
My recommendation: build it!
Thanks,Original Burnedfingers,Bonsai,djk
It seems you guys have hands on experience with Leach amps.
Can any of you tell me more about how it sounds.Of course, tell me what other components
were used for listening.
It seems you guys have hands on experience with Leach amps.
Can any of you tell me more about how it sounds.Of course, tell me what other components
were used for listening.
An old thread on Ampzilla parts.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/79832-ampzilla-transistor-replacement-2n3584-2n6421.html
Speedskater,
Thanks.
Krisfr,
I don't think so.Because it's on the net anyway.
If you want it I can mail it to you.
Thanks.
Krisfr,
I don't think so.Because it's on the net anyway.
If you want it I can mail it to you.
Krisfr,
Your welcome.
So guys, your listening experience with the Leach amp?
C'mon, don't be shy!
Your welcome.
So guys, your listening experience with the Leach amp?
C'mon, don't be shy!
"So guys, your listening experience with the Leach amp?"
More than 30 years from 1977 forward, and hundreds of different set-ups would require a multi-volume book set.
Just build one.
One note:
It has such power control in the bass that it can make small two-way speakers distort. Removing the deep bass from the small two-way speakers and using a sub will fix that problem. No three-way had this problem.
Watching the (dual) woofers in a B&W DM3000 you could see the dustcaps caving in on hard bass notes.
More than 30 years from 1977 forward, and hundreds of different set-ups would require a multi-volume book set.
Just build one.
One note:
It has such power control in the bass that it can make small two-way speakers distort. Removing the deep bass from the small two-way speakers and using a sub will fix that problem. No three-way had this problem.
Watching the (dual) woofers in a B&W DM3000 you could see the dustcaps caving in on hard bass notes.
"More than 30 years from 1977 forward, and hundreds of different set-ups would require a multi-volume book set."
Of course.I ment you guys that are following this thread.
Ok. I guess that I'll just have to go and build one. I was hoping to get more info on what to expect from this amp soundwise.
Of course.I ment you guys that are following this thread.
Ok. I guess that I'll just have to go and build one. I was hoping to get more info on what to expect from this amp soundwise.
It really doesn't have a signature sound.
They're clean, almost soft sounding in the HF (on good program material), and if the program material calls for it, they can really pound in the bass.
I comparison with say a Bryston, the Bryston sounds two-dimensional, fuzzy in the HF, and muddy in the LF. If you remove the bypass caps on the Leach it sounds almost like the Bryston.
They're clean, almost soft sounding in the HF (on good program material), and if the program material calls for it, they can really pound in the bass.
I comparison with say a Bryston, the Bryston sounds two-dimensional, fuzzy in the HF, and muddy in the LF. If you remove the bypass caps on the Leach it sounds almost like the Bryston.
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