Hi, I have a Denon PMA integrated amp, A / B / A+B speaker selections. I connected Speaker A output to speakers, Speaker B output with speaker wire to subwoofer ( Amp has no subwoofer out), selected A+B .
Sometimes (occasionally) I can hear clicking noise out of the Amp, sure the noise is from speaker Relays. As a result the music stopped while the amplifier is clicking.
However, I tried using ONLY A or ONlY B speaker connections (without subwoofer), seems everything is ok, no clicking.
The question is, Can I use B or A speaker output to subwoofer, or say, can I use A and B at the same time with two pair speakers? Is it related to the impedance?
Thanks.
Sometimes (occasionally) I can hear clicking noise out of the Amp, sure the noise is from speaker Relays. As a result the music stopped while the amplifier is clicking.
However, I tried using ONLY A or ONlY B speaker connections (without subwoofer), seems everything is ok, no clicking.
The question is, Can I use B or A speaker output to subwoofer, or say, can I use A and B at the same time with two pair speakers? Is it related to the impedance?
Thanks.
Thanks, I believe the speakers and subwoofer are listed with 8ohm.
Amp is denon pma 560 which should work with 4ohm speakers.
Speaker is klipsch heresy 2. sub is klipsch sub-12.
PMA560 is a standard format class AB stereo power amp. The speakers "A" and "B" are the usual 2 pairs of connectors each for 2 sets of speaker pairs "A" and "B". This is simply a parallel connection via separate pairs of relay contacts "A" and "B"
The traditional selector switch also permits selection of 4 possible speaker pair combinations: OFF, A, A+B or B speakers - it has nothing to do with the amplifier's simple mode of operation: Denon PMA-560 Manual - Stereo Integrated Amplifier - HiFi Engine
The relay clicking is the protection that should guard against heavy loading and high output levels - particularly if directly powering bass. The circuit also appears to sense whether the amplifier is connected to more than 1 set of speakers so you may be right that it operates differently when you wire the sub. through the "B" connections. There should be no issues connecting the sub. leads from the same terminals as the main speakers, so leave it that way and check it occasionally. It's a discrete protection circuit but it wouldn't be a good idea to play around with it on the basis of making it work when you want it to.
There may still be issues with overloading for the level you are playing at (it's not a big amp) or the caps in the protection circuit may be failing due to age in what is usually a warm location. If this becomes worse, I would consider recapping the protection circuit(s). These are are not large or expensive parts - only a few electrolytic types need replacement and be sure to use like-for-like values with the same or higher voltage ratings. Don't use overkill capacitance values here or it will probably upset correct operation.
The traditional selector switch also permits selection of 4 possible speaker pair combinations: OFF, A, A+B or B speakers - it has nothing to do with the amplifier's simple mode of operation: Denon PMA-560 Manual - Stereo Integrated Amplifier - HiFi Engine
The relay clicking is the protection that should guard against heavy loading and high output levels - particularly if directly powering bass. The circuit also appears to sense whether the amplifier is connected to more than 1 set of speakers so you may be right that it operates differently when you wire the sub. through the "B" connections. There should be no issues connecting the sub. leads from the same terminals as the main speakers, so leave it that way and check it occasionally. It's a discrete protection circuit but it wouldn't be a good idea to play around with it on the basis of making it work when you want it to.
There may still be issues with overloading for the level you are playing at (it's not a big amp) or the caps in the protection circuit may be failing due to age in what is usually a warm location. If this becomes worse, I would consider recapping the protection circuit(s). These are are not large or expensive parts - only a few electrolytic types need replacement and be sure to use like-for-like values with the same or higher voltage ratings. Don't use overkill capacitance values here or it will probably upset correct operation.
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Thanks, I will try to connect from receiver to speakers, then to subwoofer, if doesn't work, will get rid of the receiver.
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