I'm not sure which forum this is best for, but I'm asking in relation to a car amp.
I think I finally "get" the relationship between watts, amperes, volts, and ohms, but I want to make sure before I potentially fry something if I hook it up wrong.
If comparing electrical flow to water flowing through pipes...
volts = water pressure
ohms = restriction of pipe (e.g. diameter)
amperes = amount of water that actually flows (current)
I think this means, voltage doesn't "make" current flow, a high resistance could block it. You don't "apply" current, you apply volts, and current is "drawn" based on resistance.
Is that about right? If not, please enlighten me.
I think that means that you don't have to worry about supplying too much "current" to a component, right? You don't "supply" current, you supply voltage, and the component "draws" current based on it's resistance. Is that right?
OK, now my question:
For the 12 volt remote turn-on terminal of a car amplifier, which doesn't require much current, and has a much smaller connecting terminal than the 12 volt power terminal, would it be dangerous for testing purposes (testing the amp before installing it properly) to directly connect the remote turn-on terminal to the same wire as supplies the amplifier's power? Would that fry the amplifier? Would a resistor in series with this connection be required, or would that drop the voltage too low?
Still a little confused, and haven't been able to find this info anywhere.
I think I finally "get" the relationship between watts, amperes, volts, and ohms, but I want to make sure before I potentially fry something if I hook it up wrong.
If comparing electrical flow to water flowing through pipes...
volts = water pressure
ohms = restriction of pipe (e.g. diameter)
amperes = amount of water that actually flows (current)
I think this means, voltage doesn't "make" current flow, a high resistance could block it. You don't "apply" current, you apply volts, and current is "drawn" based on resistance.
Is that about right? If not, please enlighten me.
I think that means that you don't have to worry about supplying too much "current" to a component, right? You don't "supply" current, you supply voltage, and the component "draws" current based on it's resistance. Is that right?
OK, now my question:
For the 12 volt remote turn-on terminal of a car amplifier, which doesn't require much current, and has a much smaller connecting terminal than the 12 volt power terminal, would it be dangerous for testing purposes (testing the amp before installing it properly) to directly connect the remote turn-on terminal to the same wire as supplies the amplifier's power? Would that fry the amplifier? Would a resistor in series with this connection be required, or would that drop the voltage too low?
Still a little confused, and haven't been able to find this info anywhere.
yea you can use a peice of wire and run it into the terminal with the power wire and the amp will turn on. friend does this with a swicth on the jumper between the power and remote an uses that to turn on the amp. hes a to lazy to run a remote wire right.
Correct ... The remote turn-on accepts 12v ... It will draw the current it needs.
Just out of curiosity, how much current does it usually draw (average amplifier)?
Should be under 200ma, and probably around 40-50ma. You can use thin wire for this, not sure why some amps have the 8ga spot for it.
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