Hello, I've recently started working on a Boominator Mini, which meant that i for reasons unknown decided to buy the Amp6b-kit instead of the assembled version, despite having no soldering or electronics experience what so ever.
Well i worked on it most of today, and it is now what i would called assembled. But i could really use some help determining if the components are in the right place, especially since i find myself with a left-over part.
I realize that I'll have to redo some, if not all, of the solders, because most of them are very poorly executed. But this is mainly a question about the component placements.
I have (what I believe is) a Schottky diode left, that i simply have nowhere to put, in the assembly instructions it is not mentioned, but in the BOM it is supposedly surface mounted at a position called D1, but my PCB has no such label anywhere, and now I'm sort of puzzled as to what I should do with the thing.
If anyone with some experience would just briefly look at these two pictures and tell me if I have somehow managed to destroy/burn/kill my amp I would greatly appreciate it. I've not tested it yet because I am afraid something would go wrong due to a mistake somewhere.
- I realize this could probably have been posted at 41hz.com, but for some reason I am unable to create an account on the site. Thank you in advance
Well i worked on it most of today, and it is now what i would called assembled. But i could really use some help determining if the components are in the right place, especially since i find myself with a left-over part.
I realize that I'll have to redo some, if not all, of the solders, because most of them are very poorly executed. But this is mainly a question about the component placements.
I have (what I believe is) a Schottky diode left, that i simply have nowhere to put, in the assembly instructions it is not mentioned, but in the BOM it is supposedly surface mounted at a position called D1, but my PCB has no such label anywhere, and now I'm sort of puzzled as to what I should do with the thing.
If anyone with some experience would just briefly look at these two pictures and tell me if I have somehow managed to destroy/burn/kill my amp I would greatly appreciate it. I've not tested it yet because I am afraid something would go wrong due to a mistake somewhere.
- I realize this could probably have been posted at 41hz.com, but for some reason I am unable to create an account on the site. Thank you in advance
Hard to say from the picture but DEAR GOD WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO THAT POOR AMPLIFIER! 
Here are some pictures of the newest AMP6B I've assembled you can compare to.
Here are some pictures of the newest AMP6B I've assembled you can compare to.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You figured out that the D1 goes on the huge unsoldered tabs next to the power input on the back yet? D1 is also known as the reverse polarity protection diode.
First thing tomorrow. Go to the local electronics store and pick up some solder wick. use it on almost every solder before you attempt to power it on.
See youtube videos on how it's used for example.
But you have too much solder. You are never going to have good connections unless you get rid of most it using the solder wick.
After that. Clean up the board. And only after that and having reinspected the board, preferably in very clear light... say daylight, should you attempt to test the board following the instructions.
First thing tomorrow. Go to the local electronics store and pick up some solder wick. use it on almost every solder before you attempt to power it on.
See youtube videos on how it's used for example.
But you have too much solder. You are never going to have good connections unless you get rid of most it using the solder wick.
After that. Clean up the board. And only after that and having reinspected the board, preferably in very clear light... say daylight, should you attempt to test the board following the instructions.
I've tried with the soldering wick the best I could, and I've tried cleaning the pcb gently with some acetone and a toothbrush (But now it looks like there is a layer of grease on the board?)
How does it look now? I couldn't really get to clean the flux off of the top of the board due to the clusterfuck of crooked components, but I think the bottom looks a lot cleaner now?
But I've found another problem, the jumper for the (mute or sleep I'm not sure, the one closest to the chip) switch no longer fits the two pins because, for unknown reasons, the pins are no longer the same length. Will this be an issue? I'm planning to mount proper on/off switches to it anyway.
How does it look now? I couldn't really get to clean the flux off of the top of the board due to the clusterfuck of crooked components, but I think the bottom looks a lot cleaner now?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
But I've found another problem, the jumper for the (mute or sleep I'm not sure, the one closest to the chip) switch no longer fits the two pins because, for unknown reasons, the pins are no longer the same length. Will this be an issue? I'm planning to mount proper on/off switches to it anyway.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Are you using lead free solder by any chance? Pretty much all that places like maplin will sell these days... for home projects much better to use a 40/60 leaded solder.
Lead free needs higher temps and creates much more mess on your iron. As a result you need flux clean the tip almost every joint and re-tin.
Next use a proper flux paste and the right size solder tip - the wedge of the tip should be slightly larger that the pads you are soldering to. Flux the pad and component lead and then apply the iron tip flat across the pad touching the component lead. After a half second or so touch your solder to the pad and lead - if it doesn't wick through the hole and up the lead quickly your iron isn't hot enough or you've not made proper contact with the iron to the pad/lead.
As for sorting out your bad joints - lots of flux and if its lead free solder a hot iron. Once the joint wicks properly (the solder flows into the hole and up the component lead) the rest of the excess solder will usually lift off on the iron tip.
For cleaning flux get some isopropyl alcohol - get a shallow tray and a tooth brush - put enough alcohol on the tray that you can use the tooth brush to get it running over the board as you brush - this can take 3 or 4 goes to get the last residue off. Let the board sit somewhere warm for a few minutes afterwards. The alcohol evaporates quickly but best not to try powering anything until it has.
Lead free needs higher temps and creates much more mess on your iron. As a result you need flux clean the tip almost every joint and re-tin.
Next use a proper flux paste and the right size solder tip - the wedge of the tip should be slightly larger that the pads you are soldering to. Flux the pad and component lead and then apply the iron tip flat across the pad touching the component lead. After a half second or so touch your solder to the pad and lead - if it doesn't wick through the hole and up the lead quickly your iron isn't hot enough or you've not made proper contact with the iron to the pad/lead.
As for sorting out your bad joints - lots of flux and if its lead free solder a hot iron. Once the joint wicks properly (the solder flows into the hole and up the component lead) the rest of the excess solder will usually lift off on the iron tip.
For cleaning flux get some isopropyl alcohol - get a shallow tray and a tooth brush - put enough alcohol on the tray that you can use the tooth brush to get it running over the board as you brush - this can take 3 or 4 goes to get the last residue off. Let the board sit somewhere warm for a few minutes afterwards. The alcohol evaporates quickly but best not to try powering anything until it has.
Good joints don't use a lot of solder and certainly should never have a 'blob'.
A good joint will appear slightly concave and will be bright and shiny.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Watch this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ
And this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYz5nIHH0iY
And this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FC9fAlfQE
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
D1
Are you sure that D1 is the correct way round, I wasnt sure when I soldered mine, I thought that the "d shaped" cutout was +ve and should line up with the arrow..... others have looked at it and not noticed but if yours is correct, it would explain why mine isnt working...
BJ
Hard to say from the picture but DEAR GOD WHAT HAVE YOU DONE TO THAT POOR AMPLIFIER!
Here are some pictures of the newest AMP6B I've assembled you can compare to.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Are you sure that D1 is the correct way round, I wasnt sure when I soldered mine, I thought that the "d shaped" cutout was +ve and should line up with the arrow..... others have looked at it and not noticed but if yours is correct, it would explain why mine isnt working...
BJ
Yeah funny thing, just tested it and it doesn't turn on. Going to troubleshoot one of these days and report back.
Didn't use it yet because I was very happy with the AMP9 Basic I also assembled, which I might add sounds a lot better on 12V with the MiniDSP compared to the AMP6 Basic
Yeah funny thing, just tested it and it doesn't turn on. Going to troubleshoot one of these days and report back.
Didn't use it yet because I was very happy with the AMP9 Basic I also assembled, which I might add sounds a lot better on 12V with the MiniDSP compared to the AMP6 Basic
Th AMP6 is my first self assembly, it did work, then stopped and I cant find out why..... It's put me right off assembling my own and I ended up buying a ready made AMP6 basic because I ran out of time......
I cant see me even attempting to build an AMP9
*BJ*
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