you have continuity test on your DMM, or lowest ohmic range - check your switch
these demands fast and no fuss soldering (mileage), easy to damage
these demands fast and no fuss soldering (mileage), easy to damage
Zen Mod,
Could you elaborate further? I have no engineering background, so I will follow easier if you give me step by step instructions. Thank you for taking time looking at this.
Could you elaborate further? I have no engineering background, so I will follow easier if you give me step by step instructions. Thank you for taking time looking at this.
check switch - does it have contact between center pin and one outer pin in one toggle position, and between center pin and second outer pin , in second toggle position
that way you'll know do you have melted switch, or problem lies somewhere else
that way you'll know do you have melted switch, or problem lies somewhere else
Got it, checked the switch continuity, it behaves like you mentioned, center pin connected only to one side with 0 ohm, the other side is disconnected with Over Load when metered the resistance. When flipped the toggle, the sides switched.
As Zen Mod mentioned, those little switches are easy to destroy by applying too much heat for too long. The plastic melts, the contact alignment shifts, and the bedsheets are defecated. The cure is to do the soldering with the switch clamped in a vise in the easiest, most unobstructed possible position for soldering. Set it up so you can get the iron in quickly, get the solder in quickly, and with a clear view for the operator. Then get in, do the job, and get out. Wham, bam, thank you ma'am.
Is the switch specified supposed to be spst or spdt? I saw the same part on Mouser listed as spst, and on Digikey listed as spdt switch. Do they function differently for this application? Thanks.
dunno, maybe because my 2cells are sorta sleepy, but I can't fathom why 3 wires are going from switch to pcb
have pdf from FW site, but there is revision without switch, so no go from there
hope someone with exact pcbs as yours will chime in
have pdf from FW site, but there is revision without switch, so no go from there
hope someone with exact pcbs as yours will chime in
Hmm....I just got this pcb from Diyaudio store a week ago, so it supposed to be the current version?
Hi Zen Mod,
Thank you.
Hi Zen Mod,
Thank you.
I don't have the version with the switch but looking at the pictures at the diyAudio Store, only two pins are used in the circuit. The other pin is not connected to the circuit, but the board provides a hole so that the switch can be mounted on the board.
Hi Ben Mah,
Could you advise me how to connect a dpdt switch to the pcb? To which holes? Thanks.
Could you advise me how to connect a dpdt switch to the pcb? To which holes? Thanks.
Hmm....not sure it actually turned on at all, I got no,sound at all, and 0 volt at DC1, which is supposed to be 11 volt per Mr. Pass's PDF.
What I meant was the switch turned the power on and off. The amplifier not working may be another matter. Just continue to follow Zen Mod's trouble shooting suggestions.
J113 Available at Newark
I could not source the J113 FETs from Digikey or Mouser but Newark has them.
I could not source the J113 FETs from Digikey or Mouser but Newark has them.
You unsolder it from the switch, and you just solder together two wires which should be connected?
Besides, why do you have three wires there, two should be enough to turn it on? It looks to me you are shorting the plus to ground. No power supply likes it, smps can survive it, but still.
How many do you need? I can send you a matched pair, no charge. Just PM me your address info and I can ship it on Monday.