Be careful about the threads, 10-24 were /are seldom used. The 10-32 is very common.
Don't strip out things with the wrong thread. Take out another bolt from the speaker and
nest the threads of that with the new bolt. If they don't mesh perfectly, it's the wrong thread.
Don't strip out things with the wrong thread. Take out another bolt from the speaker and
nest the threads of that with the new bolt. If they don't mesh perfectly, it's the wrong thread.
Yes, it looked like Torx until I enlarged it and it became Allen in a hurry. What is that in the center? Conanski mentioned the security pin and it kinda looks like that.
Hi Cal, I am to take a cleaner picture. But no doubt, will the given links above I have seen it is Allen BTR, simple (no sec) Hexagonal hole.
Just by removing too much time with metric allen keys that not match exactly imperial size, it smoothed them, making the hole rounder wiwth no grip.
Of course, european Din 912 standard of 5 mm or 6 mm size do not match the nuts of the loudspeaker enclosure ! Lesson learned, like with mechanic and beloved old english cars ! If not the good tools, you waste the screws and nuts !
Just by removing too much time with metric allen keys that not match exactly imperial size, it smoothed them, making the hole rounder wiwth no grip.
Of course, european Din 912 standard of 5 mm or 6 mm size do not match the nuts of the loudspeaker enclosure ! Lesson learned, like with mechanic and beloved old english cars ! If not the good tools, you waste the screws and nuts !
Measurements in inches : picture 2 : has 9 edges on circa 0.494" length by substracting total length from head length (well 0.49" on picture " but hard to take with precision)
Attachments
Last edited:
Maybe so, but pictures looks like a very worn/abused Torx
I clearly see the Torx "star ends" in this picture, and the center pin:
I´ve never ever seen Hex with a "safety" pin/nipple in the center, so ....
And a worn Hex would look rounded, never with (remains of) star tips.
As of:
I am a long time Camera fan.
Agree that Japanese by sheer market size imposed that "American style" tripod thread, so much so that there is no need to specify "US market), but old European cameras (think Leica, Contax, etc.) used a larger coarser thread one, and in fact I needed adapters for them.
Last edited:
I’m amazed at the response to this post. It’s incredible how much has been gleaned and offered. No detail is to small. OP, when you figure this out please post definitive results. I’ve got to know 👍
Sure. Thanks to all.
It is hex not torx because it is not a nipple but the curve hole that looks like so.
It is hex not torx because it is not a nipple but the curve hole that looks like so.
It looks like a plain black oxide socket head cap screw. 1/4-20. The hex has been worn into more of a star due to mounting and unmounting using a hex key that's too small.
The only snag here is that the head is a low profile type which is about half the height of a normal socket head cap screw. If you need an exact match you'll have to go to a real hardware/fastener store or to McMaster-Carr (linked to above). You may have to buy 50-100 of them to get the one you need.
I'm thinking this is what you want: https://www.mcmaster.com/92220A183/
Tom
The only snag here is that the head is a low profile type which is about half the height of a normal socket head cap screw. If you need an exact match you'll have to go to a real hardware/fastener store or to McMaster-Carr (linked to above). You may have to buy 50-100 of them to get the one you need.
I'm thinking this is what you want: https://www.mcmaster.com/92220A183/
Tom
This won't work for American threads. Pitch is designated as threads per inch. The method above does work for metric threads, which is number of threads per millimeter.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Socket-Thread-Length-Threaded/dp/B00G0G7AM4/ref=sr_1_1?content-id=amzn1.sym.918a99dd-4826-4c0a-be33-a6705d69c4cf:amzn1.sym.918a99dd-4826-4c0a-be33-a6705d69c4cf&crid=1OGRDEM8M90RJ&keywords=Screws&pd_rd_r=5a52e9ea-57d9-476f-bcfd-46e48d08ee32&pd_rd_w=1n0mg&pd_rd_wg=7cwvn&pf_rd_p=918a99dd-4826-4c0a-be33-a6705d69c4cf&pf_rd_r=2S68T6PNNNX0T1S7CD46&pid=yZFSaD6&qid=1673636553&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin:2292864011,p_n_feature_five_browse-bin:3177279011,p_n_feature_thirteen_browse-bin:15245615011,p_n_feature_twenty-eight_browse-bin:19043656011,p_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin:11433968011&s=industrial&sprefix=hex+drive,+black+oxide,+1/4+-20,aps,361&sr=1-1
There are a little waiting due to stock (i looked for amazon.com and not local EC from my country, i.e. amazon.com/fr that gives mm metrics. I am going to have a look at Ebay as well.)
This is post for @intojazz inmate 🙂 (have you tried my passive BOM on your AD1862 DAC ? 😉 )
There are a little waiting due to stock (i looked for amazon.com and not local EC from my country, i.e. amazon.com/fr that gives mm metrics. I am going to have a look at Ebay as well.)
This is post for @intojazz inmate 🙂 (have you tried my passive BOM on your AD1862 DAC ? 😉 )
As soon as exotic imperials are involved, I shoot an appropiate rivet into the hole. Chanceless otherwise. And according to local customs, so no complains.
Meanwhile, I had a stripped M6 bolt in my car so I tapped the hole for 1/4-20 and used that instead. The only time I find SAE sizes useful actually.
You can buy metric thread repair kits. Used to be "Helicoil", but now under various names. Basically all the same idea using a little coil that has the original inside thread,
jeff
I know but I had a tap and die set and bolts already 🙂 I've only seen anyone use a helicoil to repair a spark plug hole.
Fortunately, I've never had to do that. Reminds me of the ill fated (and hated) Ford Triton V8. 🙂
Anyone that owns old Japanese motorcycles will have done lots of thread repair, just not the spark plug holes.
jeff
Who mentioned millimeters?
Measuring length of 10 threads and then dividing by 10 is a universal way to get more precision, measurement scale is irrelevant.
Same with weighing 10 screws or anything else; it is averaging.
Helicoid inserts need a special tap here, so expensive to do in small quantities, the inserts are not expensive....the tap is extortionately priced.
The reason I mentioned measuring pitch was that it would remove confusion between 10-24 and 10-32 screws, which have different pitches, and checking with a nut would also clear that up.
The reason I mentioned measuring pitch was that it would remove confusion between 10-24 and 10-32 screws, which have different pitches, and checking with a nut would also clear that up.