OK I filled it the break - and I could see it was broken through, right @ the edge of the end where it goes under the clamped wood pieces - and I am getting 200+ ohm, the other 3 read 4 ohm.
The circuitwriter is supposedly very low resistance ... what gives.
Atleast I went form open to 200 ohm.
Cool.
Srinath.
The circuitwriter is supposedly very low resistance ... what gives.
Atleast I went form open to 200 ohm.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK, don't laugh, but this is what I have used on a few experiments. Thickness is .5mil (12 .7 microns to be exact). Aluminized mylar. Turns out this place is 7 miles from where I live (no pickup tho)
I have enough to make about 144 Martin Logan CLS sized ESLs for $38.
http://www.massagewarehouse.com/products/mylar-foil-roll-60-x-200/
I have enough to make about 144 Martin Logan CLS sized ESLs for $38.
http://www.massagewarehouse.com/products/mylar-foil-roll-60-x-200/
Let me measure mine thickness, and why did they use kapton instead of mylar ???
Temperature ... cant get too hot I think.
Cool.
Srinath.
Temperature ... cant get too hot I think.
Cool.
Srinath.
Does the silver based circuit writer get more conductive as it cures ?
I am thinking I'll put a few more layers or a thick layer or something and see if it gets better dry.
Cool.
Srinath.
I am thinking I'll put a few more layers or a thick layer or something and see if it gets better dry.
Cool.
Srinath.
Aluminum
This has aluminum in it, I have to mask and remove the thing in the locations I dont want it and then put plain mylar on it and seal it up and hen wrinkle it right.
I dont need to put aluminum on, it need to controlledly remove it.
Cool.
Srinath.
This has aluminum in it, I have to mask and remove the thing in the locations I dont want it and then put plain mylar on it and seal it up and hen wrinkle it right.
I dont need to put aluminum on, it need to controlledly remove it.
Cool.
Srinath.
You can mask and etch out the aluminum where you wish not have it, and what you will have left is the base mylar.
I have read that some have used Citric Acid, Acetic Acid, or lye (Drano) to remove the layer of Aluminum. I have not yet tried it...
I have read that some have used Citric Acid, Acetic Acid, or lye (Drano) to remove the layer of Aluminum. I have not yet tried it...
I actually believe it or not have a very good collection of chemicals to etch metal, I did rust proofing/coating motor cycle gas tanks for many years ... Lye may be the best option for me, I have it as crystals which I can mix with water and spray.
My thought is I should use something that works very fast, else it will soak through the masking tape and tear it up under that too ... however I have a question -
Can you hand sand it in the wide swaths except in the middle of the ribbon with something like 2000 grit sandpaper. Then all that's left in that lin line in the meddle, which too I may mechanically remove by a fold and sand method.
Cool.
Srinath.
My thought is I should use something that works very fast, else it will soak through the masking tape and tear it up under that too ... however I have a question -
Can you hand sand it in the wide swaths except in the middle of the ribbon with something like 2000 grit sandpaper. Then all that's left in that lin line in the meddle, which too I may mechanically remove by a fold and sand method.
Cool.
Srinath.
I guess I need to locate adhesive .5mil or thinner mylar wihtout metal ...
Or is it better to try to heat seal ... or spray adhesive ...
Cool.
Srinath.
Or is it better to try to heat seal ... or spray adhesive ...
Cool.
Srinath.
When I was involved with the stuff, it was a water activated and pressure sensitive adhesive. Why not contact 3M and ask what to use. I would also ask them about the Mylar. Actually call it boPET as Mylar is DuPont's trade name and I'm not sure if 3M makes their own.
Oooo so the adhesive BoPet film is water activated , and after lining it up right, you press it and squeeze the water out and it glues itself ?
Cool.
Srinath.
Cool.
Srinath.
The product I was using was the 3M solar film for windows. All ready on the film, the adhesive was water activated and then squeezed out with squeegee with a silk screen paddle blade.
Ooo OK. But the solar film I've seen it bubble up a lot ... my truck's bloody rear window is awful ... Its not got a heater, its a truck.
However the side windows are fine ... what gives there ?
Cool.
Srinath.
However the side windows are fine ... what gives there ?
Cool.
Srinath.
It takes time to get it right. If you don't install it really well, it can bubble. There are a number of reasons for bubbles but that isn't going to happen here is it?
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