I have a couple of Alto TS310 speakers and a sub woofer TS215S. They work very well for the price.
However the HF response is a bit messed up. They have a peak at 6kHz (I measured 8dB) and roll off quickly above 10kHz. At the moment I use an graphic equalizer to sort this out. I asked Alto for the frequency response plots but they don't make these available.
Could I...
1) change the HF driver (the space in the box before you hit the top is a real issue)
2) add a piezo tweeter across the current HF horn.
3) other idea
Any suggestions would be great.
However the HF response is a bit messed up. They have a peak at 6kHz (I measured 8dB) and roll off quickly above 10kHz. At the moment I use an graphic equalizer to sort this out. I asked Alto for the frequency response plots but they don't make these available.
Could I...
1) change the HF driver (the space in the box before you hit the top is a real issue)
2) add a piezo tweeter across the current HF horn.
3) other idea
Any suggestions would be great.
Piezo are rubbish, don't go near them!
They are rated a 2kW Don't be fooled, they are budget powered speakers and you get what you pay for.
The RMS value is around 200Watts, anything above that they limit severely to protect the tiny HF horn.
They are rated a 2kW Don't be fooled, they are budget powered speakers and you get what you pay for.
The RMS value is around 200Watts, anything above that they limit severely to protect the tiny HF horn.
I see the driver now has some sort of heat sink unlike the TS21X range.
Thanks I know they are budget - so not expecting great things. I will stay clear of piezo. What I have done is ordered some PDS111-Compression-Driver-Neodymium from China. They are equally budget but worth a go. I may glue a heat sink on them. Can always put back the Alto ones. At least they will fit.
Thanks I know they are budget - so not expecting great things. I will stay clear of piezo. What I have done is ordered some PDS111-Compression-Driver-Neodymium from China. They are equally budget but worth a go. I may glue a heat sink on them. Can always put back the Alto ones. At least they will fit.
There is an afterthought, fixed with one screw, to the rear of the horn in attempt to increase the life of the horn at around 15W RMS. Any more than that and the TDA amplifier chips compressed the level to stay around the 15 to 20W range while the bass can go as far as 200W before compression.
I suspect that is why your treble rolls off.
I suspect that is why your treble rolls off.
In all fairness to Alto the TS31X are bi-amp class D designs with built in SMPS. The base does generate 600W rms into 4R and the HF 250W rms into 4R. I don't think there's a limiter and the HF is quite capable of popping the driver. For a budget speaker I think they are sort of OK.
Anyway give it a go. I think 2-way system worth single horn is never going to get past 10KHz - mind my ears only go to 12...
Have the compression drivers been blown before and are the currently mounted ones non-original replacements? That would explain the peak at 6 kHz.
The specs say 54–20 kHz (+/- 3 dB) so an 8 dB peak and a quick roll off at 10 kHz should not be possible. What kind of microphone do you use? How did you measure the speakers? Did you use time gating?
The specs say 54–20 kHz (+/- 3 dB) so an 8 dB peak and a quick roll off at 10 kHz should not be possible. What kind of microphone do you use? How did you measure the speakers? Did you use time gating?
No they are original. The TS31X has heatsink on the drivers which is much better then the TS21X. I know the specs say they should be +/- 3dB both are the same. Alto would not provide the data when asked. No I did not use time gating I did it outside in an open field with pink noise at 5m. The mic was a good quality condenser that I know the response for. I will send you a plot next time I take the measurement. It was noticed because we compared against a good quality Hi-Fi speaker. The horn is part of the moulded speaker. Anyway will try some PDS 221 and will remeasure.
Just to say tried the pyle pds221. They will fit if you make the spacers on the pre-amp board less high. However they don't have enough sensitivity and the HF end is 3-4dB down. Probably because they are 8R rather than 4R.
Best stick to the Alto compression drivers.
Best stick to the Alto compression drivers.
If you are sorting it out to some extent with EQ then personally I wouldn't bother throwing any money at them and instead put that towards getting some better speakers at some point in the future.
I've had some experience DJing live on that set up although it was the subs with the 18 inch driver. Whilst the sub performance wasnt bad the sound out of the tops just fell apart when pushed to get a sufficient level out of them. You most certainly don't want the limiter flashing up because by that stage the sound is total mush and distorting into oblivion.
I've had some experience DJing live on that set up although it was the subs with the 18 inch driver. Whilst the sub performance wasnt bad the sound out of the tops just fell apart when pushed to get a sufficient level out of them. You most certainly don't want the limiter flashing up because by that stage the sound is total mush and distorting into oblivion.
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