I love the little thing, but at $42, it’s been diluted in $12-55 drivers that *might* actually give it a run for bang / buck mini subwoofer driver. Especially if you get two for the $42...
However, I don’t want to give up on the ‘bang’. A handful of really nice peerless 5.25-6.5” with 6-8.25” excursion and 40-50hz Fs exist. I’m fine with any Qes in the 0.35-0.5 or close, and the Vas could actually be a little more and I’d still be happy?
Nd105
Nd140
Tcp115
Exodus anarchy
Ds135
Rss140ho4
Hivib4n,m5/6n
Aurasound Ns3...
😳
Any ideas on the potential prince of subwoofer drivers might be? 6.5 or smaller? I need two, Ive only got one w51138. Maybe I need somehow different?
However, I don’t want to give up on the ‘bang’. A handful of really nice peerless 5.25-6.5” with 6-8.25” excursion and 40-50hz Fs exist. I’m fine with any Qes in the 0.35-0.5 or close, and the Vas could actually be a little more and I’d still be happy?
Nd105
Nd140
Tcp115
Exodus anarchy
Ds135
Rss140ho4
Hivib4n,m5/6n
Aurasound Ns3...
😳
Any ideas on the potential prince of subwoofer drivers might be? 6.5 or smaller? I need two, Ive only got one w51138. Maybe I need somehow different?
I cannot find the RSS140HO4.
I would suggest adding the TangBand W6-1139 to your list if 6.5" woofers are allowed. Even more output than the W5-1138 and similarly priced to the DIY Sound Group Anarchy. The Exodus Anarchy does not seem to be available any more.
What exactly are your objectives and limitations? I see drivers ranging from 3 to 7" and up to $66. Is maximum sound output what you are after?
I would suggest adding the TangBand W6-1139 to your list if 6.5" woofers are allowed. Even more output than the W5-1138 and similarly priced to the DIY Sound Group Anarchy. The Exodus Anarchy does not seem to be available any more.
What exactly are your objectives and limitations? I see drivers ranging from 3 to 7" and up to $66. Is maximum sound output what you are after?
Last edited:
I think they're looking for mini-subwoofers - lots of LF extension from a relatively small driver.
IIRC, there are some car audio 6"s which look mechanically impressive. I don't know if the internal engineering is up to scratch, though.
Chris
IIRC, there are some car audio 6"s which look mechanically impressive. I don't know if the internal engineering is up to scratch, though.
Chris
Hi, yes, the car audio segment has some potentials. Probably?? But I think at that point I might just go with a Dayton rss210ho4 for $120. Maybe? There’s some 6.5”, $65 skar, sundown, massive audio versions. I dunno if they’re junk or not. If the stickers peeled off I wouldnt mind using them. I use a 12” from that segment quite a lot in sim and subwoofer.
4, Dayton 4”tcp115 are,$48. Near the same price as the tangband w5. Several years ago the tangband was $28-30 and definitely the champion mini subwoofer. They got a lot of attention and raised the price..
Not necessarily the rss140, but two smaller subs were on the way from PE/Dayton before Covid. Seems to have lost momentum.
I build qw full range and subwoofers mostly.standard qw pipes full range and anything for subwoofers. The more complex more fun. Perfect is not exactly a priority. Exciting is. Big subwoofer output is always exciting. But big in a small driver in multiples is great. I’ll play along with the iron law no problems with size of cabinet.
4, Dayton 4”tcp115 are,$48. Near the same price as the tangband w5. Several years ago the tangband was $28-30 and definitely the champion mini subwoofer. They got a lot of attention and raised the price..
Not necessarily the rss140, but two smaller subs were on the way from PE/Dayton before Covid. Seems to have lost momentum.
I build qw full range and subwoofers mostly.standard qw pipes full range and anything for subwoofers. The more complex more fun. Perfect is not exactly a priority. Exciting is. Big subwoofer output is always exciting. But big in a small driver in multiples is great. I’ll play along with the iron law no problems with size of cabinet.
My eyes keep getting drawn to this particular driver...
Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Why?
1. Size
2. Cost
3. Fs and Qts suggest they're a must better choice for vented and higher-order alignments.
4. I've used the larger version of this driver, the DCS205 in my "Boom Unit" build, and it's a really nice driver for the price.
I've also used the DS135, but not as a subwoofer driver. I'm using them in a pair of small speakers, using a PR alignment (matching PRs are available for them). If I was going to do the project over, I'd use two PRs per driver instead of one.
The car audio 6" drivers tend to have (1) high Fs, (2) high Qts and (3) low efficiency. All side effects of trying to design a small driver to handle a high power level. I don't know if I'd choose them for a build.
Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6-1/2" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm
Why?
1. Size
2. Cost
3. Fs and Qts suggest they're a must better choice for vented and higher-order alignments.
4. I've used the larger version of this driver, the DCS205 in my "Boom Unit" build, and it's a really nice driver for the price.
I've also used the DS135, but not as a subwoofer driver. I'm using them in a pair of small speakers, using a PR alignment (matching PRs are available for them). If I was going to do the project over, I'd use two PRs per driver instead of one.
The car audio 6" drivers tend to have (1) high Fs, (2) high Qts and (3) low efficiency. All side effects of trying to design a small driver to handle a high power level. I don't know if I'd choose them for a build.
That DCS205 should be the universal qw pipe goto driver if there ever was one. If I wanted a qwik and proper qw pipe I’d likely grab onto that driver 9 outa 10 times. It just plain works, No fuss.
I grabbed 5 drivers to compare. Thx to suggestions from you guys.
Tangband $43 w5-1138f, $60 w6-1139f, peerless $55 830946, and the Dayton $44 DCS165, and $51 DCS205. Modeling them with suggested parameters in standard end loaded pipes using Brian’s QwikMath for this very thing!
I grabbed 5 drivers to compare. Thx to suggestions from you guys.
Tangband $43 w5-1138f, $60 w6-1139f, peerless $55 830946, and the Dayton $44 DCS165, and $51 DCS205. Modeling them with suggested parameters in standard end loaded pipes using Brian’s QwikMath for this very thing!
My notes....generic TL used with exit @ driver. Slight tapers used to flatten responses as needed. Simmed as a tapped pipe with no substantial segment @driver/exit or throat entry.
Tangband w6 murdered the Fb @30.5 Hz at xmax (106dB)and 100watts In 21 liters. It’s little brother @33hz, but only 103dB in 17liters(85watts used). My w5 says(sim) 106 in a transflex, 21 liters or so. But that’s oranges not apples. And you gotta milk that outta the little guy.
Dayton Dcs205 took the dB @110 for its 33hz Fb with a much bigger TL at 40 liters. It’s the biggest by far, but seems to be the $$$ best spent in a few ways other than that.
Dcs 165 in 16 liters took 100watts at Xmax for a flat 106dB@Fb 40hz. Solid.
Peerless 830946 was at 105dB @ Fb 37hz, 20 liter TL.
Everyone had a nice simple sim with a flat response and no pressure to perform. These are merely simmed examples, not to be taken as a fact. Nothing stuffed, massaged or given too much thought.
Tangband w6 murdered the Fb @30.5 Hz at xmax (106dB)and 100watts In 21 liters. It’s little brother @33hz, but only 103dB in 17liters(85watts used). My w5 says(sim) 106 in a transflex, 21 liters or so. But that’s oranges not apples. And you gotta milk that outta the little guy.
Dayton Dcs205 took the dB @110 for its 33hz Fb with a much bigger TL at 40 liters. It’s the biggest by far, but seems to be the $$$ best spent in a few ways other than that.
Dcs 165 in 16 liters took 100watts at Xmax for a flat 106dB@Fb 40hz. Solid.
Peerless 830946 was at 105dB @ Fb 37hz, 20 liter TL.
Everyone had a nice simple sim with a flat response and no pressure to perform. These are merely simmed examples, not to be taken as a fact. Nothing stuffed, massaged or given too much thought.
Attachments
Last edited:
Without a set of requirements / specifications it is impossible to recommend a driver.
- Budget?
- Max driver dimensions?
- Max box dimensions?
- Max weight?
- Are aesthetics a factor?
- Equalization available?
- Desired low frequency extension?
- Goal: Max output? Max fidelity? Minimum size for a given output? Minimum cost for a given size and output?
- ...
- Budget?
- Max driver dimensions?
- Max box dimensions?
- Max weight?
- Are aesthetics a factor?
- Equalization available?
- Desired low frequency extension?
- Goal: Max output? Max fidelity? Minimum size for a given output? Minimum cost for a given size and output?
- ...
In the base of this skinny tower(pair) is room for a side mounted ‘subwoofer’ and it’s qw path. The MtM section above is an 8 ohm pair of Dayton Rs100s and a peerless tweeter with a small wave guide. The rs100s are in 4.5liter TLs of their own, already tested and good to ~65hz. With a subwoofer, It would be ideal to cut them off at Anything 80-100. They can bottom easily when pushed as a ‘full range’.
I only have one w5 and need another, but they are out of stock everywhere I checked(parts express).plus at $42 they pivot in an area where $15-20 more is a different driver all together(dsc205, w6-1138f,etc.). After simming ^^^^its quite a leap from the w5 Output for not too much $.
Brian Steele’s DCS205 idea is great. A bit too large is the only issue. Your W6-1139 seems to be the beez kneez for this...?
I only have one w5 and need another, but they are out of stock everywhere I checked(parts express).plus at $42 they pivot in an area where $15-20 more is a different driver all together(dsc205, w6-1138f,etc.). After simming ^^^^its quite a leap from the w5 Output for not too much $.
Brian Steele’s DCS205 idea is great. A bit too large is the only issue. Your W6-1139 seems to be the beez kneez for this...?
Attachments
Remember to include the semi-inductance parameters for the drivers in your sims. Some of the response curves can change quite a bit when these parameters are taken into consideration.
The DCS165 looks great in a straight TL - when used in pairs (with just one the CSA of the TL could become too small to physically fit the driver's depth). More expensive than just using one DCS205 instead, but does allow for physically slimmer cabinets.
The DCS165 looks great in a straight TL - when used in pairs (with just one the CSA of the TL could become too small to physically fit the driver's depth). More expensive than just using one DCS205 instead, but does allow for physically slimmer cabinets.
Brian, I wish I could. The red ‘LE’ model is all I use unfortunately. But it’s half help, half deterrent in most cases.
I put the DCS205 in ISObaric modeling and laugh at the irony. The TL fits amazingly and quite easy, it is great. However the added room of the piggy back driver pokes out the sides now. Additionally I have to ultimately enlarge the exit to a size flared for air velocities... why is the ‘iron’ law so ironic? 😛 no matter what! Lol. Can’t win. But! The DCS165 in a throat chamber entry of 2 (not ISObaric) is very interesting here!
Guess I Bite the bullet and save the DCS205 as that special one... some day I will get us both 2 of them and we can each make a pair of ‘boom boom units! (I assume you can’t get PE stuff easily at your location).
I put the DCS205 in ISObaric modeling and laugh at the irony. The TL fits amazingly and quite easy, it is great. However the added room of the piggy back driver pokes out the sides now. Additionally I have to ultimately enlarge the exit to a size flared for air velocities... why is the ‘iron’ law so ironic? 😛 no matter what! Lol. Can’t win. But! The DCS165 in a throat chamber entry of 2 (not ISObaric) is very interesting here!
Guess I Bite the bullet and save the DCS205 as that special one... some day I will get us both 2 of them and we can each make a pair of ‘boom boom units! (I assume you can’t get PE stuff easily at your location).
Last edited:
It's easy to do - use a trace tool like FPGraphTracer to derive a ZMA file from the published impedance curves, then use the workbook available from my website to derive the semi-inductance parameters from the ZMA files. Takes only a few minutes per driver. I think PE actually publishes the ZMA files for its drivers, so there's no need to do the tracing.
Do you have that hAndy for DCS205? I could reverse engineer the process and learn the spreadsheet this way I think.