After trying out both version, I found that the sound was too bright for long term listening. Also, the xover was too low (at 1750hz) which results in harshness in the female voice.
After exchanging email with another diy fellow Ramon from the Netherlands, we came with a different version of xover that is much more musical but just as much details.
Also, the xover uses much smaller caps on both the tweeter and woofer which definitely helps the sounds. The xover point is now at 2.5Khz. Minimum impedance is 3.9 ohm. Both tweeter and woofer are connected with possitive polarity.
I would appreciate if someone could try out and let me know.
After exchanging email with another diy fellow Ramon from the Netherlands, we came with a different version of xover that is much more musical but just as much details.
Also, the xover uses much smaller caps on both the tweeter and woofer which definitely helps the sounds. The xover point is now at 2.5Khz. Minimum impedance is 3.9 ohm. Both tweeter and woofer are connected with possitive polarity.
I would appreciate if someone could try out and let me know.
Latest xover. The one on the left is the one I am using. Still a bit forward in the upper mid. Reduce C1 or increase R1 a little to tame the forwardness.
Here's the absolute final xover:
I had to add a notch filter to suppress tweeter rise at around 5kHz. The notch fitler does not appear to affect the dynamic. Overall the sound is very balance. Finally I can just sit back and enjoy the music.
Feel free to play around with C21, R21, R22 if you either like it to be a little bit more forward or laid back.
L22 of 23.9uh has to be custom made.
By the way, if anyone in SoCal interested, I wouldn't mind invite you over for a second opinion.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I had to add a notch filter to suppress tweeter rise at around 5kHz. The notch fitler does not appear to affect the dynamic. Overall the sound is very balance. Finally I can just sit back and enjoy the music.
Feel free to play around with C21, R21, R22 if you either like it to be a little bit more forward or laid back.
L22 of 23.9uh has to be custom made.
By the way, if anyone in SoCal interested, I wouldn't mind invite you over for a second opinion.
Associate equipment:
1. Jolida JD100 CD Player
2. Conrad Johnson 17LS preamp
3. AES Six Pacs tube amp.
4. DIY speaker cables from Alpha Core inductor.
1. Jolida JD100 CD Player
2. Conrad Johnson 17LS preamp
3. AES Six Pacs tube amp.
4. DIY speaker cables from Alpha Core inductor.
Which Eros are you refering to?
I know of these two:
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/Eros Project/erosmk2.htm
http://www.innersound.net/erosover.html
I know of these two:
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/Eros Project/erosmk2.htm
http://www.innersound.net/erosover.html
That is the answer I was hoping for. I've been thinking about building a pair. If I eventually do, I can do some experimenting with the different crossovers.
Kinnja said:
Before deciding what to build, check out these two sites:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/
try active x-over.
you need a Behringer, digital x-over(or analog version cheaper but not so versatile) and another amp. Total cost slightly more expensive than passive(*). This compo is very versatile x-over freq. can be tuned to suit. You even program notch or bump to suit.
I am doing this now not with eros though.
* with passive you make a mistake can be expensive, you cannot return components. good quality components are very expensive.
you need a Behringer, digital x-over(or analog version cheaper but not so versatile) and another amp. Total cost slightly more expensive than passive(*). This compo is very versatile x-over freq. can be tuned to suit. You even program notch or bump to suit.
I am doing this now not with eros though.
* with passive you make a mistake can be expensive, you cannot return components. good quality components are very expensive.
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