What do you mean 'getting'? 🙂
Yeah, when I got on the net it was more lingo than English and was basically clueless until an early version of this was published: NetLingo The Internet Dictionary
GM
Yeah, when I got on the net it was more lingo than English and was basically clueless until an early version of this was published: NetLingo The Internet Dictionary
GM
1" x 16" ~aperiodic vent with the same fine mesh behind it as the driver, i.e. basically a 'critically damped' alignment.
GM
Here's what I'm thinking....
The drivers in my Flamencos are: 416Z and a 806A on a H811-B horn. I think the cabs for the Valencia/Flamenco are a compromise for "domestic" considerations. I mean, the horn inside the bass cabinet is just a recipe for intermodulation distortion of the "ringy" horn, IMHO.
I don't think I'm up to one of the Onken cabs. So, why not build myself a version one of the VOTT A7 variants with a 800Hz x-over? I want the woofer fairly far above the floor due to the peculiarities of my room.
Anyone have experience with an A7?
Thx. Steve
The drivers in my Flamencos are: 416Z and a 806A on a H811-B horn. I think the cabs for the Valencia/Flamenco are a compromise for "domestic" considerations. I mean, the horn inside the bass cabinet is just a recipe for intermodulation distortion of the "ringy" horn, IMHO.
I don't think I'm up to one of the Onken cabs. So, why not build myself a version one of the VOTT A7 variants with a 800Hz x-over? I want the woofer fairly far above the floor due to the peculiarities of my room.
Anyone have experience with an A7?
Thx. Steve
I have a good bit of experience with them. So does Cal and pretty sure GM.
It would not be an easy cabinet to build from scratch. Certainly the the Onken is easier. Or do you plan to buy some ready built?
It would not be an easy cabinet to build from scratch. Certainly the the Onken is easier. Or do you plan to buy some ready built?
I'd build them myself, not intimidated by the woodworking. It's optimizing the crossover that concerns me. I would imagine improvements are possible/desired over the stock Flamenco units.
Thx, Steve
Thx, Steve
Yes, you can do better on crossovers. I had an A7-800 and A7-500 both versions with active crossovers. Much, much better than stock. Alas I don't think I have my notes on what they were. A well designed passive will sound very nice, no need to go active.
You'll want to experiment with the bass ports. Stock size they are much too large. Be prepared to work with that.
You'll want to experiment with the bass ports. Stock size they are much too large. Be prepared to work with that.
I think that's about where I ended up. Going to depend on the woofers and some on the room but 75 in2 is a great starting point. Might need to go no further.
Oh yeah, at 17, I DIYed a stereo pair with 3/4" no void marine grade plywood and proper bracing with only hand tools, though craftsman grade with guidance from an uncle that restored antebellum homes.
Some years later, sealed up the back of the horn to compression load it and loaded the new cavity with the then just released 411-8A and DIYed a 120 Hz/2nd order line level XO from a Popular Electronics article for my first 'sub' system.
For a variety of reasons, 825 cabs were a 'dime a dozen' in my locale back then, so cut down a bunch of them to make superior performing 816, 817 cabs for both my use and existing local and 'garage' bands. Ditto a few larger 210 cabs as 815 and ~70 Hz compression horns.
Re the Onken, love the industrial chic 'look', don't much care for its harmonically distorted mid-bass, lower mids due to vent pipe harmonics comb filtering with the driver's output, euphonic though it may be for some folks. In short, technically works best when used as a limited BW woofer or the alignment keeps the vents short for wide range apps.
DIY horn wise, the A7s were the only 'big' horns I did, swearing never to ever again subject myself to such self torture when one or more properly placed kerfs allows me to 'bend' it into a series of flat panels that's acoustically close enough to 'fool' our internal processor to 'fill in the blanks' for a seamless acoustic experience.
GM
Even more if my choice of upgrading to the driver spacing/horn offset of the 846B or depending on who you ask, the M19's spacing/horn offset, XO plus both using the horn mouth's open cell foam damping or better still, the fiberglass insulation used on the early versions of both with appropriate grills of course for health reasons.
If you mean for the A7, there's no published passive XO 'upgrade' that I'm aware of, so on your own, though recommend adding a CD horn EQ [frequency shaping] filter to the existing ones to get a much flatter/more extended response.
Combined with properly offsetting the horn for optimal time and phase delay is often plenty good enough for all but the 'golden eared' among us.
GM
I don't think I've seen anyone publish a crossover upgrade for the A7. What I did not like about the A7 500 that has the 511 horn and the 500 Hz crossover is that the crossover is bog standard 500Hz for 8 ohms. It might have a high shelf, I don't remember.
But because the horn flare in front of the woofer lifts the response above ~300 Hz (at least on axis) so the crossover needs to take in that into account. I had to do the classic crossover spread by crossing the woofer lower and the horn higher than the desired. That allows the woofer and horn responses to blend better.
But because the horn flare in front of the woofer lifts the response above ~300 Hz (at least on axis) so the crossover needs to take in that into account. I had to do the classic crossover spread by crossing the woofer lower and the horn higher than the desired. That allows the woofer and horn responses to blend better.
Well as you know, I filled the upper lip with candle wax and some wicks for the outdoor evening events, so while the wax was still soft I added the banana peel. In retrospect I might have considered something a whole lot less organic. But live and learn and my Mother used to say.