Hey all, this is my first time posting here so excuse my stupidity.
I purchased a couple of Altec 1712a's and I'd like to change the ON/OFF Push Switches which are soldered to the board..
1. The Current Switch is a... Schadow TVR NE15 - DPDT. 4A/ 250VAC
2. I'd like to replace it with a Toggle Switch that would have to have right angle pins so that i can solder it to the board.
I'm struggling to find a toggle switch with right angles pins that's 4A/250VAC
Can anyone help? Thank You
I purchased a couple of Altec 1712a's and I'd like to change the ON/OFF Push Switches which are soldered to the board..
1. The Current Switch is a... Schadow TVR NE15 - DPDT. 4A/ 250VAC
2. I'd like to replace it with a Toggle Switch that would have to have right angle pins so that i can solder it to the board.
I'm struggling to find a toggle switch with right angles pins that's 4A/250VAC
Can anyone help? Thank You
Note the original switch contacts are arranged front to rear. Your toggle switch is laid out left to right. If you turn it sideways the pins ought to line up - more or less - but then the toggle would be off to the side.
Nothing says you can't mount the toggle switch on a panel and run short wires down to the pc board.
You may have to hunt to find a mini-toggle like that is a big switch rating.
Nothing says you can't mount the toggle switch on a panel and run short wires down to the pc board.
You may have to hunt to find a mini-toggle like that is a big switch rating.
You'll never get it to line up properly. Just mount a new switch (with solder lugs) directly to the panel,
and run stranded wires to the board.
and run stranded wires to the board.
@stormcrowbrewing, hard to tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like the traces from that switch head "up" toward the "transformer". If so, those white wires would be a good barometer of gauge to use. Unless I misunderstand, the 4A/250V is rated for 1000W?
I would suggest at least 16 AWG/1.5 mm; maybe that's overkill. I use 14 AWG/2.5 mm in the power section of my M2X.
Kind regards,
Drew
I would suggest at least 16 AWG/1.5 mm; maybe that's overkill. I use 14 AWG/2.5 mm in the power section of my M2X.
Kind regards,
Drew
Use stranded that fits the pcb holes properly. You're talking less than 1A, so even 22 gauge is ok.
But include strain relief loops in the wires.
But include strain relief loops in the wires.
There's also a Bypass PB DPDT Switch on this unit that I'd like to replace but I can't find any info on.
The part number is 51-02-124479. You guys have any ideas of the Specs?
It looks very similar to
The part number is 51-02-124479. You guys have any ideas of the Specs?
It looks very similar to
I have a similar looking switch from a Carver amp, and there is a (1uF?) poly cap across the switching contacts to try and stop sparking. I think it sits across INPUT and OUTPUT, but I'd have to go check to be sure.
Kind regards,
Drew
Kind regards,
Drew
Looks like a standard two position DPDT switch for line level signals. Nothing special.
Just curious WHY you want to replace them with different form factor, different pinout, harder to mount ones.
Which to boot need drilling some front panel.
Worse: you can easily remove and replace that board, "everything comes out with it", while a switch bolted/fixed to panel complicates that.
If you think "metallic toggle switches are better than plastic pushbutton ones", think again, not those tiny ones.
I replace as many damaged ones from either type.
Which to boot need drilling some front panel.
Worse: you can easily remove and replace that board, "everything comes out with it", while a switch bolted/fixed to panel complicates that.
If you think "metallic toggle switches are better than plastic pushbutton ones", think again, not those tiny ones.
I replace as many damaged ones from either type.