Alpine SPS-610C Tweeter Problem

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I recently acquired some alpine SPS-610C woofers and tweeters for my Miata. They are wired from the headunit to the woofers through a low pass filter (labeled .15mH) then the tweeter is in parallel off of the woofer. My problem is that the tweeters are receiving full range, as opposed to just the mids and highs, which is causing them to click at higher bass levels. I know I need a resistor before the tweeter, but I don't know what type, anyone have any ideas? Headunit is a brand new Kenwood KDC-BT562U if that is of any importance to you.
Thanks in advance, Parker
 
The component you are missing is a capacitor which should be in series with the tweeter positive connection. Based on the coaxial version of this speaker, it is probably a 4.7uF 400V plastic film part. (solen for example)

Do your tweeter cables have anything bulky heatshrinked into them like the ones here?
 
The component you are missing is a capacitor which should be in series with the tweeter positive connection. Based on the coaxial version of this speaker, it is probably a 4.7uF 400V plastic film part. (solen for example)

Do your tweeter cables have anything bulky heatshrinked into them like the ones here?

No they do not. So I just need 2 of those capacitors then?
Thanks, Parker
 
Hopefully it's as simple as that. Sadly I don't know what value capacitor you need. I got 4.7uF off a photo of the coaxial version. If the tweeter is 8 ohms and the woofer is 4 ohms then 0.15mH & 4.7uF work as a first order two way crossover at 4.25KHz.

The cap would need to be spliced in using solder and good insulation like heatshrink.
 
Hopefully it's as simple as that. Sadly I don't know what value capacitor you need. I got 4.7uF off a photo of the coaxial version. If the tweeter is 8 ohms and the woofer is 4 ohms then 0.15mH & 4.7uF work as a first order two way crossover at 4.25KHz.

The cap would need to be spliced in using solder and good insulation like heatshrink.

Okay thanks. I still have one woofer and one tweeter out of the car so I can check their resistances tonight before ordering. Thanks, Parker
 
In that case, I'm not so sure 4.7uF would be ideal as it will start to cut off below around 8.5KHz which seems way higher than I'd expect.

A capacitor of 10uF gives crossover point around 4KHz and 8uF raises it to 4.5KHz. You can use a tool like this to calculate the component values for you given the known impedance and your choice of crossover point. 10uF might be physically quite large in polypropylene film so you may be better off with a bipolar electrolytic instead.
 
In that case, I'm not so sure 4.7uF would be ideal as it will start to cut off below around 8.5KHz which seems way higher than I'd expect.

A capacitor of 10uF gives crossover point around 4KHz and 8uF raises it to 4.5KHz. You can use a tool like this to calculate the component values for you given the known impedance and your choice of crossover point. 10uF might be physically quite large in polypropylene film so you may be better off with a bipolar electrolytic instead.

What would be an appropriate crossover point or range?
 
Usually 3 - 5KHz depending on the characteristics of the woofer and the the tweeter. Since you already have a known low pass filter on the woofer, I'd assume that the tweeter should match. So I'd go with 10uF.

You could always try asking alpine either if they know what value is used or even if you can get new leads with the caps built in.
 
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