From what u remember they all read in the 0.4 to 0.6 Mohm range. But what is that wire that is split and should it be that way?
I can't tell anything from the photos but insulation shouldn't be split.
Is any part of the wire making contact with anything that it shouldn't contact?
Do you still read low resistance from the center solder pad of either rectifier to the outer solder pads?
If so, is the low resistance reading constant?
Is any part of the wire making contact with anything that it shouldn't contact?
Do you still read low resistance from the center solder pad of either rectifier to the outer solder pads?
If so, is the low resistance reading constant?
The wire isn't touching anything.
All are reading 11-13 Mohm but the small one is reading 62 kohms from center to left and 63 kohms from center to right.
The previous owner said when he went to bridge the power rail and the remote rail the wire touched ground while being hooked up and raw input wires touched ground.
All are reading 11-13 Mohm but the small one is reading 62 kohms from center to left and 63 kohms from center to right.
The previous owner said when he went to bridge the power rail and the remote rail the wire touched ground while being hooked up and raw input wires touched ground.
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Do you still read low resistance from the center solder pad of either rectifier to the outer solder pads?
It's odd that the low reading is gone but you don't read it across the rectifiers.
You asked about a 'strand'(?) of wire? If a strand of wire could have been on the board, it could have been the problem.
I'd suggest soldering the rectifiers back in and see if the low reading returns. Screw the rectifier down to get it positioned correctly but if the low reading comes back, lift it from the clamp (still soldered in) to see if it's possibly shorting to the riser plate.
You asked about a 'strand'(?) of wire? If a strand of wire could have been on the board, it could have been the problem.
I'd suggest soldering the rectifiers back in and see if the low reading returns. Screw the rectifier down to get it positioned correctly but if the low reading comes back, lift it from the clamp (still soldered in) to see if it's possibly shorting to the riser plate.
I re soldered everything and reflowed all the fees and rectifiers and tried the amp again and the protect light is now orange instead of flashing red. I think the orange light is only present because I only hooked it up to power with no input or output
It's looking for a shield ground. That will be provided when you plug in a head unit of ground the shields directly.
Apologies for the extremely late reply I've been caught up in work and school.
I hooked the amp up and got all lights green except the orange protection light and the power light would occasionally flash red.
I hooked the amp up and got all lights green except the orange protection light and the power light would occasionally flash red.
For right now I'm using the outputs on an old school home stereo but power and everything is coming from the car
I can attempt a hook up to my car's stereo but I don't have a line out converter as I purchased a new stereo
The new head unit is not in yet but it does.
I'm thinking I might just buy a new amp at this point.
I'm thinking I might just buy a new amp at this point.
If you're not using a head unit, try connecting a jumper between the input shield ground and the primary ground.