Teardrop is the best target shape for minimizing external diffraction… like the B&W N mid enclosure.
dave
dave
Teardrop is the best target shape for minimizing external diffraction… like teh B&W N mid enclosure.
dave
yep, I know, the matter is how to build one without a lathe

I built them for desktop, that's why they are short; I was wondering to make them taller, say 1 meter, to improve (hopefully) bass, but Dave statement about cross section changed my mind.
Better depart from pipes all together, and archive as an unsuccessful experiment 😱
Better depart from pipes all together, and archive as an unsuccessful experiment 😱
I built them for desktop, that's why they are short; I was wondering to make them taller, say 1 meter, to improve (hopefully) bass, but Dave statement about cross section changed my mind.
Better depart from pipes all together, and archive as an unsuccessful experiment 😱
TL's for desktop user are a bit hard as they soon get big, better use vented then. You can easely go to 50Hz or even lower with these in a small vented box. Something like a 10L vented could do that. On the frugalpile site there are a few designs like that.
Crap, as described, is often time-smeared stuff coming back thru the cone.
Sound can only travel through the cone if air can. The cone can be modulated but it's highly unlikely to be an issue due to both mechanical and electrical damping.
Well, not if I say so, I used to think it was an issue too, I mean people like Linkwitz said it was too, but have a read of this post and see what you think. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mul...ned-layer-damping-mdf-ply-35.html#post6514534
Better this way? 😀
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Just kidding 😀
Anyway no difference, I'll try different enclosures
I like this, it reminds me of those films or shows where they dress an alien or animal to look like a human 😀
FWIW, in a previous life, I’d built more than a few enclosures - or heard those executed by others- for most models of Mark Audio drivers up to approx 2 1/2 yrs ago, and I’d dare say that any of the models in the approx size range of the A7.3 deserve a better design and construction materials than exhibited here. Frankly, for a very near field / computer system likely to be running at average SPLs well below the drivers’ “1 watt” sensitivity rating, an FR driver from a smaller size class could still be sufficient.
I’ve been running a pair of the Fostex FF85WK in a Dlugos designed enclosure, powered by a little Topping class D amp in a desktop system for a few years now, and it’s more than sufficient to its assigned task.
As Dave noted in an earlier post, compact low powered class d amps have come a long way since the early 2000’s. I’ve owned at least half a dozen models since the Kingrex T20, and am currently operating a combination of Hpex and ICEpower in my 7.1 AV system, and can definitely hear distinctive sonic signatures between those two types on the A10.3. The Hypex is from earliest UCD topology and while great for sub-woofers, is far more “hashy” and translucent* in the top end than the ICE.
That said, there’s something about a well executed class AB design; if it weren’t for the cost, of all the amps I’ve heard in the past 5yrs I’d like to try Neurochrome Mod686 and 286 all around. After over 50yrs of owning a lot of gear, some with very pronounced “personalities”, I’m currently favouring electronics with as little as possible within my budget.
edit: *”translucent” in the sense of UV discoloured Plexiglass vs low iron ultra clear glass.
I’ve been running a pair of the Fostex FF85WK in a Dlugos designed enclosure, powered by a little Topping class D amp in a desktop system for a few years now, and it’s more than sufficient to its assigned task.
As Dave noted in an earlier post, compact low powered class d amps have come a long way since the early 2000’s. I’ve owned at least half a dozen models since the Kingrex T20, and am currently operating a combination of Hpex and ICEpower in my 7.1 AV system, and can definitely hear distinctive sonic signatures between those two types on the A10.3. The Hypex is from earliest UCD topology and while great for sub-woofers, is far more “hashy” and translucent* in the top end than the ICE.
That said, there’s something about a well executed class AB design; if it weren’t for the cost, of all the amps I’ve heard in the past 5yrs I’d like to try Neurochrome Mod686 and 286 all around. After over 50yrs of owning a lot of gear, some with very pronounced “personalities”, I’m currently favouring electronics with as little as possible within my budget.
edit: *”translucent” in the sense of UV discoloured Plexiglass vs low iron ultra clear glass.
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I have to say my project has been inspired by many TL examples made with PVC pipes found on this forum also
I've been attracted from both the simplicity of the construction and the minimal baffle that approach the ideal point source, but I underestimated baffle diffraction, and maybe some resonance inside the speaker enclosure.
As you can see, the enclosure leave just little room around the speaker motor, so possibly I have standing waves around the back side of the membrane
I've been attracted from both the simplicity of the construction and the minimal baffle that approach the ideal point source, but I underestimated baffle diffraction, and maybe some resonance inside the speaker enclosure.
As you can see, the enclosure leave just little room around the speaker motor, so possibly I have standing waves around the back side of the membrane
I've seen those needles before!Tha is fixable
Would love to hear them. Guess they would be just my thing.
I guess one would be surprised about their output from that skinny volume. Unfortunately the photo doesn't do it justice. Direct light or flash. They look like waiting for a liter of oil or so.
If I ever go back to 3" full range I'll definitely consider an enabled ff85 from you.
the enclosure leave just little room around the speaker motor,
You could try pulling the 2nd magnet of the A7.3 off. Might make a small difference.
dave
The higher in frequency they are the less of an issue.As you can see, the enclosure leave just little room around the speaker motor, so possibly I have standing waves around the back side of the membrane
Yes, but I guess all my troubles are in the 1-3 Khz spectrum, the resonance is so bad that almost destroy the 3d soundstange, you can pinpoint the sound coming from the speaker, they don't disappear at all
First I try to remove 2nd magnet; anyway is not clear to me performance difference between one and two magnets
First I try to remove 2nd magnet; anyway is not clear to me performance difference between one and two magnets
No, nor me, it sounds a bit drastic. Have to stuffed the enclosure? How long are the standing waves you are concerned about.
The enclosure internal walls are already stuffed with 2 cm thick foam, except around speaker magnet and basket to let it breathe
I can't really pinpoint a specific wave lenght, some suggest that 700Hz bump visible in the FR plot, but AFAIK harsh voice sibilance should be above 2Khz
I can't really pinpoint a specific wave lenght, some suggest that 700Hz bump visible in the FR plot, but AFAIK harsh voice sibilance should be above 2Khz
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