Hi guys, I have an Allo Katana from a friend of mine over for repair, one leg of the big electrolytic cap on the top board got broken off so I replaced it, but the dac is not working, or at least not working properly.
What I can hear is very low level and distorted sound coming from the dac, and it responds to volume controls from Volumio/Rpi. It can be heard even if output section is turned off. When I turn it on I can hear a pop and the sound changes slightly, but I would say for the worst.
So I presume the dac and the controller are working, but something went wrong with the output section. Any help is appreciated, like where to start looking for the source of the problem? What could have gone wrong if the dac kept playing with the electrolytic cap broken off?
Thanks
What I can hear is very low level and distorted sound coming from the dac, and it responds to volume controls from Volumio/Rpi. It can be heard even if output section is turned off. When I turn it on I can hear a pop and the sound changes slightly, but I would say for the worst.
So I presume the dac and the controller are working, but something went wrong with the output section. Any help is appreciated, like where to start looking for the source of the problem? What could have gone wrong if the dac kept playing with the electrolytic cap broken off?
Thanks
The big electrolytic on the top board is not needed to make the dac work. It was added by Allo to help further reduce distortion. If the dac was working before the cap was replaced, then maybe try removing the new cap.
Other than that, there are many ways to configure Katana. There are a number of jumpers and various ways to power it, maybe a dip switch too IIRC.
The dac stack may also be used with an isolator board which is not needed for the dac tor work, although using one may help reduce distortion/noise in some circumstances.
Seems like the first thing to determine would be when exactly the dac stopped working and the circumstances in which that happened. The other thing would be to carefully check the configuration, and see if it works without any unnecessary components.
Other than that, there are many ways to configure Katana. There are a number of jumpers and various ways to power it, maybe a dip switch too IIRC.
The dac stack may also be used with an isolator board which is not needed for the dac tor work, although using one may help reduce distortion/noise in some circumstances.
Seems like the first thing to determine would be when exactly the dac stopped working and the circumstances in which that happened. The other thing would be to carefully check the configuration, and see if it works without any unnecessary components.
If I am not mistaken the cap was introduced because a fellow inmate found some serious
audio modulations on the power rails.
If you google "Allo Katana issues" or "...problems" you might also find some other relevant hints. They did have some more quality issues with that product.
All that made me wonder during those days why they killed the product altogether after such a short period in the market.
Good luck.
audio modulations on the power rails.
If you google "Allo Katana issues" or "...problems" you might also find some other relevant hints. They did have some more quality issues with that product.
All that made me wonder during those days why they killed the product altogether after such a short period in the market.
Good luck.
Just wanted to update this thread for anyone following - the issue is still not resolved but I'm in contact with them on the audiophilestyle.com site where they have support, and they are sending me updates on what to measure on the boards.
Seems to me that overheating is the major issue that caused problems, it's just wrong for a quality dac like this to die after less than 2 years of usage.
Seems to me that overheating is the major issue that caused problems, it's just wrong for a quality dac like this to die after less than 2 years of usage.
Good luck. You'll need it. 😉
Or, simply don't waste your time anymore and buy a new DAC.
I am running a Gustard A18 now. With a little tweaking a nice and solid DAC.
Considering the amount of time and money I spent on all these DIY products and
projects, I am more than happy with this solution now.
Great that affordable off-the-shelf audio products perform that well nowadays.
Enjoy.
Or, simply don't waste your time anymore and buy a new DAC.
I am running a Gustard A18 now. With a little tweaking a nice and solid DAC.
Considering the amount of time and money I spent on all these DIY products and
projects, I am more than happy with this solution now.
Great that affordable off-the-shelf audio products perform that well nowadays.
Enjoy.
I understand your point, but I don't agree - my friend paid $250 for Katana, add the cost of RPi and a better PSU that I built for him (he first used it on phone chargers which was subpar to put it mildly). Then he bought 2 matching aluminum cases for his amp and DAC and Katana was supposed to be built into that.
I mean who expected that this thing would break down after 1.5 years, it's a good sounding DAC and both of us decided it's good to invest in it by means of better PSU and case etc.
I mean who expected that this thing would break down after 1.5 years, it's a good sounding DAC and both of us decided it's good to invest in it by means of better PSU and case etc.
Good luck. You'll need it. 😉
Or, simply don't waste your time anymore and buy a new DAC.
I am running a Gustard A18 now. With a little tweaking a nice and solid DAC.
Considering the amount of time and money I spent on all these DIY products and
projects, I am more than happy with this solution now.
Great that affordable off-the-shelf audio products perform that well nowadays.
Enjoy.
Have you given up on the Khadas Tone Board?
You were singing it's praises not long back; I have had mine in use for almost 2 years or so and still happy with it.
Have you given up on the Khadas Tone Board?
You were singing it's praises not long back; I have had mine in use for almost 2 years or so and still happy with it.
Given up !?!?
I moved one little step ahead. 😉
I had the ToneBoard 1 running also for around 2 years. (while Katana was settling dust)
However. If we talk and judge DACs we need to look at the environment as well.
My Toneboard was Allo Shanti powered plus cap buffer on the DAC and iFi USB filtered and fed by a well tuned RPI4. RCA jacks were bypassed.
All I can say is a stock Gustard A18 would have never been able to beat that tweaked setup. It took me quite a while to get the Gustard were it is now. And now it's not much better than my old KTB1 setup. It is that much better that it'll stay. I never compared a stock KTB1 vs. Gustard A18 or stock Katana directly. All I can say today. My setup never sounded better. 😀 (More details about my setup can be found on my blog)
Back to the actual topic. The Katana also needed tweaking and a pretty complex power supply setup for performing best. But it also had quality issues from the start. No surprise that Allo buried that rather complex (HAT-) DAC rather quickly and silently and came up with the Revolution DAC.
Good luck to iggy to get the DAC going.
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