The stereo board is good to go with the standard IEC / fuse setup. If you have a deluxe chassis or the cool new 4u/400 special edition and the back panel kit you have what you need.
The dual mono setups need the added 1 fuse per channel. See @birdbox last picture a few posts up for how that is implemented.
The dual mono setups need the added 1 fuse per channel. See @birdbox last picture a few posts up for how that is implemented.
Here's a picture from the inside showing how the Power Entry Module (PEM) sends the already fused "Live/Hot" up to the additional two fuses for each separate PSU for dual mono.
Hi,
@rhthatcher I just ordered the V8 PSU boards from your Etsy shop and I just wanted to confirm that a good choice for the transformer is the AnTek AS-2218 - 200VA 18V Transformer (two of these). I am using the 47k uF 25V caps. Thanks for all of the info.
Jim.
@rhthatcher I just ordered the V8 PSU boards from your Etsy shop and I just wanted to confirm that a good choice for the transformer is the AnTek AS-2218 - 200VA 18V Transformer (two of these). I am using the 47k uF 25V caps. Thanks for all of the info.
Jim.
Hi there,
Sorry, couple more questions on the power supply unit stuff:
1. The Rectifier Bridges that can be purchased through the Etsy shop are KBPC3510. On the BOM the Rectifier Bridges are GBPC3510. Does it matter which are used?
2. Any part information on the fuses and fuse housings/holders? Sizes? Etc.?
3. Any recommended power cables, or is that a whole other rabbit hole?
Thanks. Happy Fourth if you celebrate that.
Jim.
Sorry, couple more questions on the power supply unit stuff:
1. The Rectifier Bridges that can be purchased through the Etsy shop are KBPC3510. On the BOM the Rectifier Bridges are GBPC3510. Does it matter which are used?
2. Any part information on the fuses and fuse housings/holders? Sizes? Etc.?
3. Any recommended power cables, or is that a whole other rabbit hole?
Thanks. Happy Fourth if you celebrate that.
Jim.
Bridges - GBPC works.
Fuses - get 5x20mm slow blow fuses. Get an Amazon multipack. Sizing needs to be based on transformer and mains voltage.
300va / 120v = 2.5A fuse
200va / 120v = 1.67A. Go to next nearest standard size.
For the dual mono build get a panel mount 5x20 fuse holder. DigiKey, mouser, Amazon have options.
Wiring is a potential rabbit hole. I tend to go for standard stranded copper (not solid) in pvc jacket. No teflon coated silver clad cryo treated wire produced by virgins on the solstice in my stash.
I go for black and white color on mains.
Red / green / black for DC wiring.
Green or green/yellow for earth ground.
Speaker wire I don’t keep a strict standard for color
Input wire - no strict standard. I often use a stranded cat6 for SE or a mogami (or is it Belden?) thin mic cable for balanced
Fuses - get 5x20mm slow blow fuses. Get an Amazon multipack. Sizing needs to be based on transformer and mains voltage.
300va / 120v = 2.5A fuse
200va / 120v = 1.67A. Go to next nearest standard size.
For the dual mono build get a panel mount 5x20 fuse holder. DigiKey, mouser, Amazon have options.
Wiring is a potential rabbit hole. I tend to go for standard stranded copper (not solid) in pvc jacket. No teflon coated silver clad cryo treated wire produced by virgins on the solstice in my stash.
I go for black and white color on mains.
Red / green / black for DC wiring.
Green or green/yellow for earth ground.
Speaker wire I don’t keep a strict standard for color
Input wire - no strict standard. I often use a stranded cat6 for SE or a mogami (or is it Belden?) thin mic cable for balanced
Attachments
Not so much about the virgins... but I've found that the stranded silver plated copper is more resistant to corrosion than plain copper. I recently had to throw a big bundle of 16 gauge plain copper away because the stuff would barely take solder due to the tarnish / oxidation that had formed over time.
^ Jim - If you don't love drilling holes in the back panel of your new chassis... I like fuse holders in this form factor. There are lots of options in a similar configuration.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MC6W3P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Things to consider
The ones linked are not exactly made for this application, but they work wonderfully for me. I bolt them to the inner perforated base-plate of the chassis, and I'm off and running.
Just an option in addition to the "barrel" type panel mount holders.
For the fuse values in the PEM (the switch) - use one of the fuses that came with your back panel kit (if you got fuses and/or a back panel kit) in the power entry module. The 10A fuse goes on the neutral side. You can maybe get away with a 3A5 slow-blow fuse on the live side... but I'd err toward 4. (400VA / 120V)
For the additional fuses for each channel PSU = 200VA / 120V => I'd use a 2A slow blow fuse.
There are people far smarter than I that will likely chime in with additional advice / thoughts.
Enjoy!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MC6W3P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Things to consider
- make sure that anything you choose is AC voltage rated.
- Fuse size (physical size) and get matching fuses
- I really like the covers to discourage dreadedfingerpokin, but they're not strictly necessary.
The ones linked are not exactly made for this application, but they work wonderfully for me. I bolt them to the inner perforated base-plate of the chassis, and I'm off and running.
Just an option in addition to the "barrel" type panel mount holders.
For the fuse values in the PEM (the switch) - use one of the fuses that came with your back panel kit (if you got fuses and/or a back panel kit) in the power entry module. The 10A fuse goes on the neutral side. You can maybe get away with a 3A5 slow-blow fuse on the live side... but I'd err toward 4. (400VA / 120V)
For the additional fuses for each channel PSU = 200VA / 120V => I'd use a 2A slow blow fuse.
There are people far smarter than I that will likely chime in with additional advice / thoughts.
Enjoy!
I can concurr that drilling the holes was neither fun or satisfying (note even after using a caliper to measure, a punch to mark, and a brand new drill bit, mine are not symmetric). I like the idea of skipping the back plate holes for extra fuses and using internal mounted fuse holders. Thank you @ItsAllInMyHead !!
Hi there,
Thanks for all of the previous info. Couple additional questions for y'all:
1. I am going to go with the chassis mount fuses that @ItsAllInMyHead recommended above. I wanted to make 100% sure that these would be the appropriate fuses for the dual 200V transformers - BOJACK T2AL250V 6x30 mm 2 A 250 V Slow Blow Fuses (T2AL250V 6x30 mm 2 A 250 V Slow Blow Fuses 2 amp 250 Volt 0.24 x 1.18 Inch Glass Tube Time-delay Fuses(Pack of 20 Pcs)).
2. I ordered the diyAudio Store Back Panel Kit. Sounds like I need a 5mmx20mm 10amp for the neutral, and a 5mmx20mm 4amp for the live side. Both slow burn?
3. I was going to order the vertical mount brackets sold by AnTek here (https://www.antekinc.com/cl-vertical-mounting-brackets/). Any concerns with that? If so, I will just 3D print the @birdbox cradle, wasn't sure about the strapping.
Thanks again for all of the help and info.
Jim.
Thanks for all of the previous info. Couple additional questions for y'all:
1. I am going to go with the chassis mount fuses that @ItsAllInMyHead recommended above. I wanted to make 100% sure that these would be the appropriate fuses for the dual 200V transformers - BOJACK T2AL250V 6x30 mm 2 A 250 V Slow Blow Fuses (T2AL250V 6x30 mm 2 A 250 V Slow Blow Fuses 2 amp 250 Volt 0.24 x 1.18 Inch Glass Tube Time-delay Fuses(Pack of 20 Pcs)).
2. I ordered the diyAudio Store Back Panel Kit. Sounds like I need a 5mmx20mm 10amp for the neutral, and a 5mmx20mm 4amp for the live side. Both slow burn?
3. I was going to order the vertical mount brackets sold by AnTek here (https://www.antekinc.com/cl-vertical-mounting-brackets/). Any concerns with that? If so, I will just 3D print the @birdbox cradle, wasn't sure about the strapping.
Thanks again for all of the help and info.
Jim.
^
1 - I can't confirm physical size at the moment, but amperage and speed is A-OK
2 - Fuses may come in kit. Unsure. Either way... amperage and speed A-OK. Confirm size from others or specs.
3 - Those look snazzy and (relatively speaking) very inexpensive. I'd go for it. However, I didn't know they existed and have not tried them. The bummer is I have a shipment from Antek already on the way, or I'd add a few to try out myself. Nice find! (Make sure you order the correct size, the CL-200 looks correct.
Enjoy!
1 - I can't confirm physical size at the moment, but amperage and speed is A-OK
2 - Fuses may come in kit. Unsure. Either way... amperage and speed A-OK. Confirm size from others or specs.
3 - Those look snazzy and (relatively speaking) very inexpensive. I'd go for it. However, I didn't know they existed and have not tried them. The bummer is I have a shipment from Antek already on the way, or I'd add a few to try out myself. Nice find! (Make sure you order the correct size, the CL-200 looks correct.
Enjoy!
Antek just added those transformer mounts a few weeks ago. I think for the price you can't go wrong with them. The 3D seat with a strap works great too, but cost of materials is a little over $5 and I'm sure functionally both options work equally well.
I'd get a kit of 5x20 slow blow fuses from amazon that includes 3.5A and 4A, 10A, etc. Start with 3.5A on mains, then go to 4A if needed. If you're lucky the kit will have some lower amp values for use in other builds (preamps, etc.)
Those Antek brackets look GREAT, and priced nice, too!
What chassis are you using? 4U/300 Deluxe or 4U/400? 4U/400 400 won't need the bracket.
Those Antek brackets look GREAT, and priced nice, too!
What chassis are you using? 4U/300 Deluxe or 4U/400? 4U/400 400 won't need the bracket.
I am in the process of building the Aleph Jzm and have questions regarding the power supply. I got the Thatcher's power supply board and I am looking at the Build Guide.
The part about the less than 25V rails and less than 35V rails is not too clear to me.
If i pick the 33K uF, 35V Digikey #338-2260-ND for the 8 (C1-8) capacitors, which R15-R16 Resistors should i get. 25K 1/4 W or the 36K 1/4 W.
Also want to make sure the Antek AS-3218 - 300VA 18V Transformer will work.
Thanks for the help.
The part about the less than 25V rails and less than 35V rails is not too clear to me.
If i pick the 33K uF, 35V Digikey #338-2260-ND for the 8 (C1-8) capacitors, which R15-R16 Resistors should i get. 25K 1/4 W or the 36K 1/4 W.
Also want to make sure the Antek AS-3218 - 300VA 18V Transformer will work.
Thanks for the help.
The R15 and R16 resistors control the current flow (and thus brightness) for the LEDs. The value is not related to your capacitor choice for C1-C8.
If you're running 24V rails and want "standard" brightness, go with 24-25kohm resistors. If you want dimmer LED, go with 36Kohm resistors.
If you're running 35V rails, first, you might want to consider 50V caps as 35V is right there at the limit. Regarding LED brightness with 36V rails, 36kohm resistors would be "standard" and something higher, say 48kohm for dim LEDs. However, you're not running 35V rails in your amp.
The key piece of information here is you selected an 18V transformer, so that means you're targeting 24V rails. With that knowledge, you can make the proper choices for your capacitors and for your LED "brightness" resistors R15/R16.
Cap choice looks good.
Resistor choice is up to you based on if you like dimmer LEDs (36kohm) or brighter ones (24khoms). Maybe buy both since they are so cheap and try them out.
If you're running 24V rails and want "standard" brightness, go with 24-25kohm resistors. If you want dimmer LED, go with 36Kohm resistors.
If you're running 35V rails, first, you might want to consider 50V caps as 35V is right there at the limit. Regarding LED brightness with 36V rails, 36kohm resistors would be "standard" and something higher, say 48kohm for dim LEDs. However, you're not running 35V rails in your amp.
The key piece of information here is you selected an 18V transformer, so that means you're targeting 24V rails. With that knowledge, you can make the proper choices for your capacitors and for your LED "brightness" resistors R15/R16.
Cap choice looks good.
Resistor choice is up to you based on if you like dimmer LEDs (36kohm) or brighter ones (24khoms). Maybe buy both since they are so cheap and try them out.
Antek 3218 will result in 23-24v rails on AJzm. So 25 or 35v caps will do. Birdbox is spot on for LED resistors.
Thanks birdbox and rhthatcher, for the explanation regarding the confusion (for me) on the no relation between R15, R16 resistors and C1-C8 capacitors. As suggested I will get both resistors and see which one I prefer.
Thanks also for confirming the choice for transformer.
I can now order all these parts with some peace of mind. I have the amplifier boards built already and also have the PASSdiy chassis. I am still waiting for the back panel kit to be back in stock.
I am sure I will be back again after I built the power supply since I am not too clear on how to connect them to the back panel and amp boards. My only project has been the Korg preamp and I didn't have to build the power supply, so got off easy on that one.
Thanks again for all the help.
Thanks also for confirming the choice for transformer.
I can now order all these parts with some peace of mind. I have the amplifier boards built already and also have the PASSdiy chassis. I am still waiting for the back panel kit to be back in stock.
I am sure I will be back again after I built the power supply since I am not too clear on how to connect them to the back panel and amp boards. My only project has been the Korg preamp and I didn't have to build the power supply, so got off easy on that one.
Thanks again for all the help.