Saw you got what you needed wrt tips for possible parts. Doesn’t really matter what they look like, you can always strip them, or use one of those smart ones Itsall suggested, where the rubber can be pulled back during soldering 🙂
Thanks all! Either way, I think I have enough coming to keep me busy...OK I need to get the raw wire, but that should be fairly easy.
Should I just get bog standard 16 gauge multi-stranded wire? Or something else you suggest?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M7NWX7A/
Just for fun I might be a little fancy on the signal and speaker wire (I get AudioQuest stuff cheap) but will not do anything strange.
Thanks!
Should I just get bog standard 16 gauge multi-stranded wire? Or something else you suggest?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M7NWX7A/
Just for fun I might be a little fancy on the signal and speaker wire (I get AudioQuest stuff cheap) but will not do anything strange.
Thanks!
If I may say so, there is no wire better for this kind of thing than Gotham Audio. It's very cheap, typically used in professional audio, but it is amazingly good. There are various places online one can get it. But you can get it shipped directly from Switzerland, even if you are in the US, and group buys might make sense, too, if enough people were interested. I have an account with them, I've bought so much.
It would be almost impossible to overemphasize how good this stuff is. Pass Labs used Gotham GAC-4/1 for the connection between the two halves of the $12,000 XP-20 when used in mono mode. (I won't say more, as it might involve trade secrets, and others can speak for themselves.) I have used it exclusively for many years now after having some very boutique and very expensive cable (FMS).
The best interconnect they have is GAC-4/1 Ultra Pro, which is €17.25 per meter. I would not recommend that for internal wiring. It's too thick and hard to work with. (Even now, it takes me about an hour to terminate a pair of cables.) But it's great for interconnects (which will compete with the most expensive cables out there).
But you can get 95% of the performance of that cable from Gotham GAC-4/1, which is €3.35 per meter and extremely flexible. That will work for for internal wiring, and I've used it that way a lot. It is very flexible and is heavily shielded (which, I think, is a lot of what makes it so good).
While I'm at it, the best speaker cable from Gotham is the PUR-SPK 2x2.5mm, which is €4.85 per meter. I explain how best to terminate it here. But there are cheaper wires, like this and this, that are also very good and which are easier to work with.
It would be almost impossible to overemphasize how good this stuff is. Pass Labs used Gotham GAC-4/1 for the connection between the two halves of the $12,000 XP-20 when used in mono mode. (I won't say more, as it might involve trade secrets, and others can speak for themselves.) I have used it exclusively for many years now after having some very boutique and very expensive cable (FMS).
The best interconnect they have is GAC-4/1 Ultra Pro, which is €17.25 per meter. I would not recommend that for internal wiring. It's too thick and hard to work with. (Even now, it takes me about an hour to terminate a pair of cables.) But it's great for interconnects (which will compete with the most expensive cables out there).
But you can get 95% of the performance of that cable from Gotham GAC-4/1, which is €3.35 per meter and extremely flexible. That will work for for internal wiring, and I've used it that way a lot. It is very flexible and is heavily shielded (which, I think, is a lot of what makes it so good).
While I'm at it, the best speaker cable from Gotham is the PUR-SPK 2x2.5mm, which is €4.85 per meter. I explain how best to terminate it here. But there are cheaper wires, like this and this, that are also very good and which are easier to work with.
Oh a Star-Quad cable. I read about it last week. It have outstanding RF noise rejection. Might help to reduce hum in M2 amps.
P.S.: Although for Aleph J I just bought simple Duelund tin plated copper hook-up wires.. 😀 600V version for PSU. PartsConnexion have nice discounts right now.
For wire, Apexjr.com Mil-spec, silver plated, all colors, stranded or solid core.
Russellc
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Thanks all, lots of good choices...too many, good problem to have!
peppennino - I like the idea of 16 gauge (stranded?) for the power-carrying wire, and 22 gauge (solid) for the signal wire.
rikiheck - that stuff looks wonderful - but any idea what shipping costs are for a small order?
peppennino - I like the idea of 16 gauge (stranded?) for the power-carrying wire, and 22 gauge (solid) for the signal wire.
rikiheck - that stuff looks wonderful - but any idea what shipping costs are for a small order?
No, but you can email info@gotham.ch to find out.
I have quite a bit of wire around and could probably send you some, depending upon what exactly you want.
I have quite a bit of wire around and could probably send you some, depending upon what exactly you want.
I just ordered a ton of 16 gauge stranded and 22 gauge solid wire from Steve at Apex Jr.
Either way I’ll have plenty to work with.
I told him DIY Audio sent me and he appreciates it 🙂
Either way I’ll have plenty to work with.
I told him DIY Audio sent me and he appreciates it 🙂
I still might buy some fancy input wire, speaker wire but at least I have what’s needed now, in the future.
Thanks russellc - I have 10 feet of multiple colors coming for both wire types.
Good news (for spreading this out), while the DIY Audio order came super fast, everything else is just hanging. Leaving on a trip to visit my family, so will be back in a few weeks and probably mid October before I get the majority of the bits. Fine with me, no rush!
Good news (for spreading this out), while the DIY Audio order came super fast, everything else is just hanging. Leaving on a trip to visit my family, so will be back in a few weeks and probably mid October before I get the majority of the bits. Fine with me, no rush!
After small council with MZM, I have decided to opt for my original plan of soldering directly everywhere, end exclude fastons alltogether.
To bridges, that means soldering directly in hole, bending wire and then crimping. So it looks a bit like there is a faston under, but there ain’t. Also, MZM suggests filing down the plated bridge connectors. Dunno if I’ll do that or not, since I have to redrill the holes for a bit bigger wire than 16 awg and as such temove the plating there in the process. We will see.
For DC power and speaker wire connectors to his PCBs, I’ll use needle connectors (like male faston, and circular, in a way, making room for big wire. Beware, his boards have extra big holes to accomodate them.
Needle connecter example: Skjøtehylse og endehylse | Elektroimportøren AS
I am gonna order some without insulation, then shrink after soldering.
Regards,
Andy
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didn't told ya to solder in holes, then bend (wtf!!?)
solder as is normal, on contact plate
damn greenhorns
solder as is normal, on contact plate
damn greenhorns
I am used to use holes whenever I can, hence increasing amount of family duties due to ever increasing amount of mini berserkers.
Mighty, you saying not to use holes even though they are there, or just not to bend? I wasn’t going to bend the contact plate, just put in the wire, ensure it is vertical (hence «bend»), then solder. Papa uses the holes in FW builds, so kinda figured a good idea. I might be a GH but not a complete *** ok, then, maybe a bit.
But I figure using holes is an easy way of ensuring mechanical contact.
Mighty, you saying not to use holes even though they are there, or just not to bend? I wasn’t going to bend the contact plate, just put in the wire, ensure it is vertical (hence «bend»), then solder. Papa uses the holes in FW builds, so kinda figured a good idea. I might be a GH but not a complete *** ok, then, maybe a bit.
But I figure using holes is an easy way of ensuring mechanical contact.
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I also spent a considerable amount of time looking for appropriate cables and pins for my Aleph J...
Needle connectors are okay.... but not great. You could get pure copper pins and Mogami W3101 speaker cable for the DC and output wiring. Then, play with input wiring to fine-tune the sound to your preferences and the rest of the system.
Most of that 4mm² (#12AWG) cable can fit into those copper pins, the remainder can be carefully spread on top of the pins and then soldered. Check the picture I attached. The cable is made in Japan from oxygen-free copper. It's by far the best value for money high-grade cable used by professionals around the world. Once soldered, the cable & pin combo will fit very nicely into an AMP PCB. Plus, this will allow for multiple cable & pin removals... without any danger of damaging the PCB copper tracks... if you decide to improve the AMP later on.
165045 TE Connectivity | Mouser
https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/speaker_cable/conventional_configuration/
You'll also need a 60 - 80W soldering iron.
The "other side" could have spade lugs, also soldered... so that you could separate the AMP PCB's from the power supply PCB, i.e. for ease of PCB's removal.
.
Needle connectors are okay.... but not great. You could get pure copper pins and Mogami W3101 speaker cable for the DC and output wiring. Then, play with input wiring to fine-tune the sound to your preferences and the rest of the system.
Most of that 4mm² (#12AWG) cable can fit into those copper pins, the remainder can be carefully spread on top of the pins and then soldered. Check the picture I attached. The cable is made in Japan from oxygen-free copper. It's by far the best value for money high-grade cable used by professionals around the world. Once soldered, the cable & pin combo will fit very nicely into an AMP PCB. Plus, this will allow for multiple cable & pin removals... without any danger of damaging the PCB copper tracks... if you decide to improve the AMP later on.
165045 TE Connectivity | Mouser
https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/speaker_cable/conventional_configuration/
You'll also need a 60 - 80W soldering iron.
The "other side" could have spade lugs, also soldered... so that you could separate the AMP PCB's from the power supply PCB, i.e. for ease of PCB's removal.
.
Attachments
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I am used to use holes whenever I can, hence increasing amount of family duties due to ever increasing amount of mini berserkers.
Mighty, you saying not to use holes even though they are there, or just not to bend? I wasn’t going to bend the contact plate, just put in the wire, ensure it is vertical (hence «bend»), then solder. Papa uses the holes in FW builds, so kinda figured a good idea. I might be a GH but not a complete *** ok, then, maybe a bit.
But I figure using holes is an easy way of ensuring mechanical contact.
messing with holes on bridges is just feeding the OCD
as always, do what make you happy .....