Hallo,
I need some help because I' ve bought a second (stock) Aleph 3 to make vertical passive biamping of my redesigned (crossover,box,cabling...) Tannoy HPD 12".
The older Aleph 3 (n°8695, 220v) is, at present, working flawlessly. The newer one (n°10048, 110v) in seeming mint condition is in the box, I' ve never powered it.
Now the questions:
1) Do I have to change the fuse of the new unit after I've changed the voltage?
2) Is it necessary to have it checked by a tecnician (slowly powered with a variac or other things that you think necessary....)?
3) Is it a wise move to change all the electrolytics of the two amps (they are now some years old...)?
4) If so which kind of capacitors for best quality/physical dimension can I use?
Thanks to all, excuse me for my bad english (I am from Italy) and if you have other ideas...I'm all ears! 🙂
Regards.
I need some help because I' ve bought a second (stock) Aleph 3 to make vertical passive biamping of my redesigned (crossover,box,cabling...) Tannoy HPD 12".
The older Aleph 3 (n°8695, 220v) is, at present, working flawlessly. The newer one (n°10048, 110v) in seeming mint condition is in the box, I' ve never powered it.
Now the questions:
1) Do I have to change the fuse of the new unit after I've changed the voltage?
2) Is it necessary to have it checked by a tecnician (slowly powered with a variac or other things that you think necessary....)?
3) Is it a wise move to change all the electrolytics of the two amps (they are now some years old...)?
4) If so which kind of capacitors for best quality/physical dimension can I use?
Thanks to all, excuse me for my bad english (I am from Italy) and if you have other ideas...I'm all ears! 🙂
Regards.
Yes, you have to change the fuse.
The Aleph 3 and also the 1.2, 2,4,and 5 don't have any adjustments
and are extremely reliable. If it appears to be working, I wouldn't
bother.
As to caps, you can change them if you want, but I haven't run across
any that have needed it yet. The PS caps are the high temp
Panasonics, available from Digikey.
😎
The Aleph 3 and also the 1.2, 2,4,and 5 don't have any adjustments
and are extremely reliable. If it appears to be working, I wouldn't
bother.
As to caps, you can change them if you want, but I haven't run across
any that have needed it yet. The PS caps are the high temp
Panasonics, available from Digikey.
😎
Thank you mr.Pass.
Only a final question about the fuse.
In the Aleph 3 owner's manual on setup page (third line) is written: ...240/120/100 volts, all with a 3ag slow blow type fuse.
In the Aleph 3 service manual, first page, I read (twelveth line): F1 is a slow blow fuse, set at 4 amps for 100-120 volt operation, and two amps for 220-240 volt operation.
What is the correct value?
I am apprehensive about the electrolytics because you said that after fifteen years they can be gone and I don't know if they have worked or not and can cause damages to the amp. Can I measure them or it's only a matter of slow bass/diminishing dynamic?
Thank again for your patience.
Best regards.
Stefano
Only a final question about the fuse.
In the Aleph 3 owner's manual on setup page (third line) is written: ...240/120/100 volts, all with a 3ag slow blow type fuse.
In the Aleph 3 service manual, first page, I read (twelveth line): F1 is a slow blow fuse, set at 4 amps for 100-120 volt operation, and two amps for 220-240 volt operation.
What is the correct value?
I am apprehensive about the electrolytics because you said that after fifteen years they can be gone and I don't know if they have worked or not and can cause damages to the amp. Can I measure them or it's only a matter of slow bass/diminishing dynamic?
Thank again for your patience.
Best regards.
Stefano
well, you said it yourself: "In the Aleph 3 service manual, first page, I read (twelveth line): F1 is a slow blow fuse, set at 4 amps for 100-120 volt operation, and two amps for 220-240 volt operation.". you have 240V grid in EU, right? so the latter is your case.
for the caps, Papa already told you to start it (with a proper fuse in place and chassis hooked up to the safety ground !)), and if it works don't bother for a few more years. or if you want to change them just go ahead and do it. (no need to measure anything since it may turn out not so simple for you).
for the caps, Papa already told you to start it (with a proper fuse in place and chassis hooked up to the safety ground !)), and if it works don't bother for a few more years. or if you want to change them just go ahead and do it. (no need to measure anything since it may turn out not so simple for you).
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