After years of loving my aleph O monoblocks
I've decided to replace the capacitor's .
My question is are there any capacitors that are better than the original and should I up the micro farads any ?
I've decided to replace the capacitor's .
My question is are there any capacitors that are better than the original and should I up the micro farads any ?
general rules:
- change them all , with same or better quality
-in most positions , there is no harm in going for more capacitance
-bypass for elcos - 1uF solid cap of decent quality is pretty much universal value , at least in my book
if you post schematic (maybe I will later , even if that's usually OP's job) , I can be more specific
- change them all , with same or better quality
-in most positions , there is no harm in going for more capacitance
-bypass for elcos - 1uF solid cap of decent quality is pretty much universal value , at least in my book
if you post schematic (maybe I will later , even if that's usually OP's job) , I can be more specific
my weak spot is 1uF Philips MKC (polycarbonat) for bypass
even as bypass for Elna Silmics , Papa's fave cheap signal caps
though , I don't know how easy is to get them on your side of pond , I mean - not "them" , but MKC generally
even as bypass for Elna Silmics , Papa's fave cheap signal caps
though , I don't know how easy is to get them on your side of pond , I mean - not "them" , but MKC generally
when I said - post schematic , what I meant is to ask - which exactly Aleph 0 iteration you have - early one or later one ?
any detail could help
any detail could help
major differences are around Ser. No. 4500 , so if your is above that number , that's it
in any case - not mucho caps to change , besides big reservoir ones - 5pcs of pinkie ones on main pcb
so - just buy decent ones - looking at schematic, I think it's best to stay on same capacitance ; voltage same or higher
4u7 (2 pcs) and one 1000uF
two additional (dunno which value - probably 100uF and upwards) are most probably just rails filtration
edit: that applies to Rev. 1.4
Rev. 1.6 is missing all caps
in any case - not mucho caps to change , besides big reservoir ones - 5pcs of pinkie ones on main pcb
so - just buy decent ones - looking at schematic, I think it's best to stay on same capacitance ; voltage same or higher
4u7 (2 pcs) and one 1000uF
two additional (dunno which value - probably 100uF and upwards) are most probably just rails filtration
edit: that applies to Rev. 1.4
Rev. 1.6 is missing all caps
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The original PSU caps in my Aleph 0 are Mallory CGS313U050W4C: 31000 uF, D=2.5", L=4.125", Screw mount 1.125" pitch, 50 VDC, 28 mOhm ESR, 9.6 A max. ripple current, 85°C, 2000 hours, 85°C
While it might be possible to get exactly the same part, I guess there are newer designs with better specs. How about Kemet ALS36H333L4C075? 33000 uF, same D / L / screw-terminal pitch, 75 VDC, 11 mOhm ESR, 21.6 A max. ripple current, 19000 hours, 85°C
Any thoughts on this?
While it might be possible to get exactly the same part, I guess there are newer designs with better specs. How about Kemet ALS36H333L4C075? 33000 uF, same D / L / screw-terminal pitch, 75 VDC, 11 mOhm ESR, 21.6 A max. ripple current, 19000 hours, 85°C
Any thoughts on this?
Ok! Now I need to understand how to disassemble the thing. It's a 3D puzzle held together by imperial screws, for which I don't have the right tools... not funny!
Also, I believe the frontend has some electrolytics, which may also want to be replaced. Not sure about those parts though because I couldn't get access to those yet. If someone knows the details of these (type, numbers, dimensions, etc.) that would be nice.
Also, I believe the frontend has some electrolytics, which may also want to be replaced. Not sure about those parts though because I couldn't get access to those yet. If someone knows the details of these (type, numbers, dimensions, etc.) that would be nice.
tools are easy to buy nowadays
use your calipers to measure hex in screw heads
if you don't have calipers, buy that first
use your calipers to measure hex in screw heads
if you don't have calipers, buy that first
in fact, even without measurements - just buy a set of imperial size Allen keys
clever to have them both as keys/wrenches and also bits
clever to have them both as keys/wrenches and also bits
Not easy to buy at all. It's Sunday after all 🙂
A Torx T10 will fit in, which measures 2.35 mm on my calipers. So an Allan tool with about 2.35 mm width (distance between parallel sides) would fit. Is that a 3/32" Allan key? Or something else? I can't wrap my head around the imperial system...
A Torx T10 will fit in, which measures 2.35 mm on my calipers. So an Allan tool with about 2.35 mm width (distance between parallel sides) would fit. Is that a 3/32" Allan key? Or something else? I can't wrap my head around the imperial system...
Hello mbrennwa,
a hex key allen wrench (Innensechskantschlüssel) is not directly interchangeable between the metric and the inch sizes..
https://handtoolessentialSome are pretty close. I would buy one in inch sizes.com/blog/tools/hex-key-conversions-allen-wrench/
I would buy one. If you need it only on this project - perhaps a cheap one.
https://www.amazon.de/inbusschlüssel-inch/s?k=inbusschlüssel+inch
I work a lot on american motorcycles - I would never use a metric hex key allen wrench in an inch allen screw. How I learned this?
Damaged screws and a lot of painful work after this...
Cheers
Dirk
a hex key allen wrench (Innensechskantschlüssel) is not directly interchangeable between the metric and the inch sizes..
https://handtoolessentialSome are pretty close. I would buy one in inch sizes.com/blog/tools/hex-key-conversions-allen-wrench/
I would buy one. If you need it only on this project - perhaps a cheap one.
https://www.amazon.de/inbusschlüssel-inch/s?k=inbusschlüssel+inch
I work a lot on american motorcycles - I would never use a metric hex key allen wrench in an inch allen screw. How I learned this?
Damaged screws and a lot of painful work after this...
Cheers
Dirk