Existing volume pots are bypassed (that is in fact removed) and an external OK quality volume pot (motorised blue Alps) pilots the 2 amps in one go.
As you may have seen on the pix, we refurbished/saved Gilles' grand pa amp... of sentimental value. Gilles did a splendid job making everything fit and disapear inside and using the facade and all original knobs... great integration.
Right now, I am working on another project, which will include the (IMHO) best quality ever volume control for this amp, and possibly one of the cheapest and smallest 🙂
But that's another story for different thread perhaps...
Claude
As you may have seen on the pix, we refurbished/saved Gilles' grand pa amp... of sentimental value. Gilles did a splendid job making everything fit and disapear inside and using the facade and all original knobs... great integration.
Right now, I am working on another project, which will include the (IMHO) best quality ever volume control for this amp, and possibly one of the cheapest and smallest 🙂
But that's another story for different thread perhaps...
Claude
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What about these? I’m sure two of the four leads probably are only there for anchoring (can be trimmed off)?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Elektronik/7444011715100?qs=GBLSl2AkiruGT3IIpBA3cw==
Cheers,
Pete
Yes those are similar to the ones I was asking about. Wurth makes through hole coils that should work. It's just a value proposition now.
What I would really like to find is a basically bare PCB that I could build from scratch.
Existing volume pots are bypassed (that is in fact removed) and an external OK quality volume pot (motorised blue Alps) pilots the 2 amps in one go.
As you may have seen on the pix, we refurbished/saved Gilles' grand pa amp... of sentimental value. Gilles did a splendid job making everything fit and disapear inside and using the facade and all original knobs... great integration.
Right now, I am working on another project, which will include the (IMHO) best quality ever volume control for this amp, and possibly one of the cheapest and smallest 🙂
But that's another story for different thread perhaps...
Claude
Ok, that sounds like a lot of work, especially based on how much trouble you had with the volume pot.
And cool on the new project. Let me know when it's ready to look at!
Well, once you admit that the small PCB retaining the pot is both (over)glued and (over) soldered and you decide to dremel it out... it isn't that difficult anymore LOL !
SMPS filter for 6A is Mark's child, to be probably found in his thread once the time is right, but given the quality of Mark's work no doubt it will be a winner 🙂
My own filter, described here as one of the first mods, was avery basic LC low pass 2nd order filter, but that was because a proper solution didn't exist.
Enjoy music very much
Claude
SMPS filter for 6A is Mark's child, to be probably found in his thread once the time is right, but given the quality of Mark's work no doubt it will be a winner 🙂
My own filter, described here as one of the first mods, was avery basic LC low pass 2nd order filter, but that was because a proper solution didn't exist.
Enjoy music very much
Claude
Well, once you admit that the small PCB retaining the pot is both (over)glued and (over) soldered and you decide to dremel it out... it isn't that difficult anymore LOL !
HA! So as soon as you dremel/cut the leads this instantly becomes a power amp? Is there a pic here somewhere with what said Dremeled pot looks like?
NVM, I found the post. That looks like a scary proposition to be dremeling in such a small space.
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Yes those are similar to the ones I was asking about. Wurth makes through hole coils that should work. It's just a value proposition now.
What I would really like to find is a basically bare PCB that I could build from scratch.
Look here: TPA3255 Reference Class D amplifier PCB | Etsy
TPA3255 Reference Design Class D Amp GB
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Nice, thanks. That pcb doesn't even have the IC on it though does it? I'm not sure I'm ready to try installing one of those at this point.
Nice, thanks. That pcb doesn't even have the IC on it though does it? I'm not sure I'm ready to try installing one of those at this point.
Those are bare boards, bare boards do not usually have components on them.
You could just get a the 3e audio TPA3255 board and modify that, if you do not want to install all the components on a bare board.
TPA3255-2CH-260W | 3e Audio
I would like to do almost everything.....surface mount IC's are beyond my current ability though....for now.
But the TPA3251 version is available. TPA3251 - OPA1656 Stereo PFFB 36V Class-D Amplifier Partial Kit | jlelectronicsph
It also looks like the TPA3255 version will be a available in a few weeks also. TICore260BTL Stereo TPA3255 PFFB Post Filter Feedback Class-D Partial Kit | jlelectronicsph
It also looks like the TPA3255 version will be a available in a few weeks also. TICore260BTL Stereo TPA3255 PFFB Post Filter Feedback Class-D Partial Kit | jlelectronicsph
But the TPA3251 version is available. TPA3251 - OPA1656 Stereo PFFB 36V Class-D Amplifier Partial Kit | jlelectronicsph
It also looks like the TPA3255 version will be a available in a few weeks also. TICore260BTL Stereo TPA3255 PFFB Post Filter Feedback Class-D Partial Kit | jlelectronicsph
Very nice. Thats basically exactly what Im after. Spendy though to be sure.
Alright, next round of mods/changes complete. Here is what Ive done so far.......
1) Replaced the main caps with 4500uf United Chemi-Cons
2) Bypassed the main caps with 2x 2.2uf + 1x .1uf each Murata and TDK's
3) Updated OPA's to LM4562 and bypassed them (under board) with .1uf TDK's
4) Replaced the 4 opa caps nearest the heatsink (input caps?) with 10uf film caps
5) Replaced the 5 opa caps with Nichicon UFG1E220MDM 22uf and bypassed the middle with .1uf TDK
I effectively undid everything I previously changed (apart from the main caps) and started over. This sounds better than before (+2 maybe?) with the previous mods I did. I think changing those 4 OPA caps to 10uf film caps actually helped and is worth doing, though a little fussy in the tight space. The 10uf films are cheap KEMET C322C106K3R5TA
Todo: Replace the 3 470uf caps and finish the bypasses. I may also change those 22uf lytics I just put in to more 10uf films as well.
1) Replaced the main caps with 4500uf United Chemi-Cons
2) Bypassed the main caps with 2x 2.2uf + 1x .1uf each Murata and TDK's
3) Updated OPA's to LM4562 and bypassed them (under board) with .1uf TDK's
4) Replaced the 4 opa caps nearest the heatsink (input caps?) with 10uf film caps
5) Replaced the 5 opa caps with Nichicon UFG1E220MDM 22uf and bypassed the middle with .1uf TDK
I effectively undid everything I previously changed (apart from the main caps) and started over. This sounds better than before (+2 maybe?) with the previous mods I did. I think changing those 4 OPA caps to 10uf film caps actually helped and is worth doing, though a little fussy in the tight space. The 10uf films are cheap KEMET C322C106K3R5TA
Todo: Replace the 3 470uf caps and finish the bypasses. I may also change those 22uf lytics I just put in to more 10uf films as well.
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Very nice. Thats basically exactly what Im after. Spendy though to be sure.
Lester’s amps are easy to work with if all you want to handle is thru-hole mounted components. He sells the boards with either everything mounted or just the SMD parts pre-mounted. But, yes, it’s a bit more expensive then the unit you’re working with now. He is also currently developing a tpa3251 amp with PFFB besides the 3255 amp with PFFB he now offers.
Cheers,
Pete
Hi amigos,
I finally Found the alternative to my Aiyima A04 (Tilear 2.1 with best caps)
Got the new TPA3255 and I will review it later (waiting for my new case) but I can already share some pictures and made an 1 hour test ! sounds Amazing out of the box 🙂 The stock module is fully equiped with Nichicon caps, dead silence no POP when switching ON / OFF, ultra compact size and sounds really better with these minor updates :
For TPA3255 module : Remove 2X Nichicon VZ serie 2200UF/63V > Install 2X Nichicon 4700UF KW serie (low ESR Audio grade / Audiophonics)
For LLC SMPS PSU : Remove Output Caps 2X Nichicon PM serie 50V/1800UF > Install 2X Nichicon 2200UF KW serie (Audio grade / Audiophonics)
OP amps : Remove NES5532 Op amps > Install Genuine OPA1656 DIP8 socket (mouser)
Will let you know more when the amplifier is going to be fully assembled )
Stock version
A small 110*70*35MM TPA3255 module with :
SAGAMI 7W14A inductors
Full Nichicon caps, as below :
Nichicon 2200UF/63V VZ serie power caps
Nichicon FW serie Buffer caps (Audio Grade)
DIP8 OP amps socket








I finally Found the alternative to my Aiyima A04 (Tilear 2.1 with best caps)
Got the new TPA3255 and I will review it later (waiting for my new case) but I can already share some pictures and made an 1 hour test ! sounds Amazing out of the box 🙂 The stock module is fully equiped with Nichicon caps, dead silence no POP when switching ON / OFF, ultra compact size and sounds really better with these minor updates :
For TPA3255 module : Remove 2X Nichicon VZ serie 2200UF/63V > Install 2X Nichicon 4700UF KW serie (low ESR Audio grade / Audiophonics)
For LLC SMPS PSU : Remove Output Caps 2X Nichicon PM serie 50V/1800UF > Install 2X Nichicon 2200UF KW serie (Audio grade / Audiophonics)
OP amps : Remove NES5532 Op amps > Install Genuine OPA1656 DIP8 socket (mouser)
Will let you know more when the amplifier is going to be fully assembled )
Stock version
A small 110*70*35MM TPA3255 module with :
SAGAMI 7W14A inductors
Full Nichicon caps, as below :
Nichicon 2200UF/63V VZ serie power caps
Nichicon FW serie Buffer caps (Audio Grade)
DIP8 OP amps socket








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Lester’s amps are easy to work with if all you want to handle is thru-hole mounted components. He sells the boards with either everything mounted or just the SMD parts pre-mounted. But, yes, it’s a bit more expensive then the unit you’re working with now. He is also currently developing a tpa3251 amp with PFFB besides the 3255 amp with PFFB he now offers.
Cheers,
Pete
I agree, see my review of the Jlester here :
Which TPA3255 amp do you recommend? | Page 39 | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
Which SMPS LLC PSU did you use for your testing? If this is an inappropriate place to mention it please PM me.
Thanks,
Pete
Thanks,
Pete
Question for you dexterous, solder-slingers. I see mouser has an adapter for the dip 8 op amps.
Chip Quik PA0001
Is this a good choice to adapt for the opa1656 or do you have better recommendations? ...yes, I see there are pre-adapted options available for purchase.
Pete
Chip Quik PA0001
Is this a good choice to adapt for the opa1656 or do you have better recommendations? ...yes, I see there are pre-adapted options available for purchase.
Pete
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