Hi,
Time to go from the lab bench to a nice box for my amp. This is a PCB base, with screw terminql blocks for power and speakers connections. Amp is 2x170W class D, Power voltage is 36V. I consider Speakon connectors as application is active speakers.
Boxing amps is an exercice that I'm pretty bad at, and would like to do better this time. Opportunity to learn !
Could you help me define the adequate wire gauge for power and speaker connection ?
Is some type of wire/insulation adviced (something not too exotic or difficult to find) ?
Are there some parts to consider for the Power cord connection ?
Are some accessories / tools helpful for boxing such amps ?
All advice welcomed,
Best regards,
JMF
Time to go from the lab bench to a nice box for my amp. This is a PCB base, with screw terminql blocks for power and speakers connections. Amp is 2x170W class D, Power voltage is 36V. I consider Speakon connectors as application is active speakers.
Boxing amps is an exercice that I'm pretty bad at, and would like to do better this time. Opportunity to learn !
Could you help me define the adequate wire gauge for power and speaker connection ?
Is some type of wire/insulation adviced (something not too exotic or difficult to find) ?
Are there some parts to consider for the Power cord connection ?
Are some accessories / tools helpful for boxing such amps ?
All advice welcomed,
Best regards,
JMF
Excusez moi mais JE suis "JMF" 😉
Et aussi Francophone (en plus d'autres langues, bien sûr 🙂 )
Not sure your screw terminal connectors can take 1 mm wire, but if it fits, you can use it too.
No need for gold/silver/virgin blood/cryotreatment, etc.
Regular PVC insulated wire is what everybody uses; if you want to splurge on Teflon insulated wire, it´s your money, but not really necessary.
Look in this very Forum at projects made by others, which will be an example on how things are made at home, at a Hobby/DIY level, different from what Factories do, which may be impossible to duplicate by us.
Et aussi Francophone (en plus d'autres langues, bien sûr 🙂 )
0,50 and 0,75 mm wire will be fine.
Not sure your screw terminal connectors can take 1 mm wire, but if it fits, you can use it too.
Regular stranded copper wire is fine, better if tinned for improved corrosion resistance but nothing beyond that.
No need for gold/silver/virgin blood/cryotreatment, etc.
Regular PVC insulated wire is what everybody uses; if you want to splurge on Teflon insulated wire, it´s your money, but not really necessary.
Just a good quality IEC connector, with own Fuse housing if available.
You´ll need standard pliers, cutters, a couple screwdrivers, something to drill holes in the cabinet, maybe a small file (one round, one triangle or flat) if you mustb custom size some hole (power switch/pilot light/IEC connector or fuse holder).
Look in this very Forum at projects made by others, which will be an example on how things are made at home, at a Hobby/DIY level, different from what Factories do, which may be impossible to duplicate by us.
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I JMF ;-)
Thanks a lot for all those advices. All makes sense !
I will follow your advice to try to look at some DIY designs and take inspiration. Do something clean is the objective.
Sometime there are some small tips that help and I wouldn't invent like using ferrule, spades, "cosses"...
KISS may be the way 🙂.
Francophone in Argentina: one of many languages I imagine
JMFbis
Thanks a lot for all those advices. All makes sense !
I will follow your advice to try to look at some DIY designs and take inspiration. Do something clean is the objective.
Sometime there are some small tips that help and I wouldn't invent like using ferrule, spades, "cosses"...
KISS may be the way 🙂.
Francophone in Argentina: one of many languages I imagine
JMFbis
I'm finally doing my amplifier boxing (hopefully). I come back to the choice of wires.
Doesn't 0,50 and 0,75 mm "diameter" wire looks super small for the Power voltage (36V - 60W) and speaker connection ? My conversion tables give AWG22-AWG25. I have AWG22 under my eyes and it looks very small.
Sure length are very limited: 5 cm for speaker wires, 15-20cm for 36V Power cables.
Best regards,
JMF
0.75mm² (note the square) is about 18 or 19 AWG.
At full roar a 340W 36V class D amp will suck about 10 Amps.
AWG 18/19 is good for 16 or 14 Amps in chassis wiring. (Less for permanent in-wall power wiring.)
American Wire Gauge Chart and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits table with ampacities, wire sizes, skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength
As for burn-up, a speech/music D amp will draw less than 10% of rated power even when clipping badly.
As for speakers, similar math applies. I have never burned-up a speaker wire.
It is about 8 milliOhms per foot, so <6mOhm in your run, times the 10 Amps is 60mOhm voltage drop, surely negligible unless you face precision testing.
If fatter wire makes you feel better, do it. But I would not drive to town to get some.
At full roar a 340W 36V class D amp will suck about 10 Amps.
AWG 18/19 is good for 16 or 14 Amps in chassis wiring. (Less for permanent in-wall power wiring.)
American Wire Gauge Chart and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits table with ampacities, wire sizes, skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength
As for burn-up, a speech/music D amp will draw less than 10% of rated power even when clipping badly.
As for speakers, similar math applies. I have never burned-up a speaker wire.
It is about 8 milliOhms per foot, so <6mOhm in your run, times the 10 Amps is 60mOhm voltage drop, surely negligible unless you face precision testing.
If fatter wire makes you feel better, do it. But I would not drive to town to get some.
Thanks for the feedback PRR. Sorry as English is not my native language.
Could you please clafify if you consider that it is AWG19 which is OK for my application (0.75 mm2), or if it is AWG22 (about 0.7mm diameter) ?
The math seems to be done for AWG19, but I'm not sure. And applying the 10% factor should put the AWG22 in the safe range.
Best regards,
JMF
Could you please clafify if you consider that it is AWG19 which is OK for my application (0.75 mm2), or if it is AWG22 (about 0.7mm diameter) ?
The math seems to be done for AWG19, but I'm not sure. And applying the 10% factor should put the AWG22 in the safe range.
Best regards,
JMF