Hello all,
I'm a rookie...never built a speaker but I'd really like to...and I'm looking for some advice.
I am needing speakers for my home office, something to work with my computer. I've been looking online and I've called Madisound and they suggested building a small subwoofer, using a Kiega amp. And also building some fairly simple cabinets for 3" or 4" full range drivers - using the amp to power them. It sounded like a good idea to me...being my first project...it seems that it would be pretty straightforward. I was told that a full range drive would not need any crossover - so I would really just need to get the enclosures right.
So I guess my first question is - does this sound like a good way to get started?
Appreciate any feedback...
Thanks,
Jason
I'm a rookie...never built a speaker but I'd really like to...and I'm looking for some advice.
I am needing speakers for my home office, something to work with my computer. I've been looking online and I've called Madisound and they suggested building a small subwoofer, using a Kiega amp. And also building some fairly simple cabinets for 3" or 4" full range drivers - using the amp to power them. It sounded like a good idea to me...being my first project...it seems that it would be pretty straightforward. I was told that a full range drive would not need any crossover - so I would really just need to get the enclosures right.
So I guess my first question is - does this sound like a good way to get started?
Appreciate any feedback...
Thanks,
Jason
Not a bad idea, that's for sure.
However, I would strongly recommend adding a low-cut filter to the full range (usually referred to as FR) speakers. If the subwoofer is to do the bass, then the FR speakers needn't be flapping around trying to do the low stuff - its far better left to something that can do it comfortably.
There's a lot of options you could try from here, so lets try to narrow them down a little.
What sort of music?
How loud?
How big is the room?
Is WAF (wife acceptance factor) an issue?
Chris
However, I would strongly recommend adding a low-cut filter to the full range (usually referred to as FR) speakers. If the subwoofer is to do the bass, then the FR speakers needn't be flapping around trying to do the low stuff - its far better left to something that can do it comfortably.
There's a lot of options you could try from here, so lets try to narrow them down a little.
What sort of music?
How loud?
How big is the room?
Is WAF (wife acceptance factor) an issue?
Chris
Thanks for the feedback...
To answer some do your questions -
The room is about 12' x 12' - regarding the volume, it's my office but i'd like to be able to turn it up on occasion. The music will be just about anything...rock, electronic, anything really.
I think I am covered on the WAF, for now.
From looking around on net, I found some drivers that I was thinking might be a good fit, but I'd really like your opinion of them. The Fostex FE103En 4" and the Tang Band W4-1052SDF....they both seem affordable with good reviews, any thoughts?
For the subwoofer, I really don't know. I was thinking an 8" - but I don't know how big of an enclosure that would require.
To answer some do your questions -
The room is about 12' x 12' - regarding the volume, it's my office but i'd like to be able to turn it up on occasion. The music will be just about anything...rock, electronic, anything really.
I think I am covered on the WAF, for now.
From looking around on net, I found some drivers that I was thinking might be a good fit, but I'd really like your opinion of them. The Fostex FE103En 4" and the Tang Band W4-1052SDF....they both seem affordable with good reviews, any thoughts?
For the subwoofer, I really don't know. I was thinking an 8" - but I don't know how big of an enclosure that would require.
Hmmmm...
I've found the Fostex FE drivers tend to require a lot of work to get them sounding neutral - they have a frequency response that rises towards the upper midrange, giving them a very "detailed", but also very forward sound - not relaxing at all IMO.
I found my FE126eN (FE126E, treated by Dave) still too sibilant, so had to employ electrical filters to correct this.
For subwoofers, you can do some rather neat things.
For example, you can choose a high power handling driver (make sure its still a subwoofer - look for plenty of Xmax), put it in a very small sealed cabinet, and add a special circuit to get lots of low frequency extension. The tradeoff there is that you need to add lots of power because small cabinets don't produce bass efficiently.
ESP - The Linkwitz Transform Circuit
For a small subwoofer, I wouldn't go lower than ~35Hz - you'll run out of headroom very quickly if you do.
So, that's one option - sacrifice SPL and get (if you so wish) a cabinet that's not much bigger than the driver it holds.
Another option would be a conventional ported box - decent extension at the expense of a larger cabinet. These will also go louder than sealed cabinets so long as you don't operate them below port tuning.
Because they use the pressure generated by the rear of the cone, delay it by half a cycle, then add it to the output of the front of the cone (so they become in phase), there are those that say the transient response could be better.
I like the sound of my ported boxes just fine - in my opinion, the port gives the driver an easier time, so it will produce less distortion. Pick your poison.
There's a huge pile of designs you could choose, but for a 12' by 12' room, I'm going to guess the subwoofer needs to be reasonably compact.
Something like this may fit the bill, or you might choose to go for an 8". I use effectively a pair of those subwoofers and find them ample for home listening. The recent price hike of Neodymium means the ferrite version of the driver would be a cheaper option.
Where are you likely to buy drivers from?
Chris
PS - download winISD Alpha, follow the help file to put some drivers in, and play around with cabinet sizes.
I've found the Fostex FE drivers tend to require a lot of work to get them sounding neutral - they have a frequency response that rises towards the upper midrange, giving them a very "detailed", but also very forward sound - not relaxing at all IMO.
I found my FE126eN (FE126E, treated by Dave) still too sibilant, so had to employ electrical filters to correct this.
For subwoofers, you can do some rather neat things.
For example, you can choose a high power handling driver (make sure its still a subwoofer - look for plenty of Xmax), put it in a very small sealed cabinet, and add a special circuit to get lots of low frequency extension. The tradeoff there is that you need to add lots of power because small cabinets don't produce bass efficiently.
ESP - The Linkwitz Transform Circuit
For a small subwoofer, I wouldn't go lower than ~35Hz - you'll run out of headroom very quickly if you do.
So, that's one option - sacrifice SPL and get (if you so wish) a cabinet that's not much bigger than the driver it holds.
Another option would be a conventional ported box - decent extension at the expense of a larger cabinet. These will also go louder than sealed cabinets so long as you don't operate them below port tuning.
Because they use the pressure generated by the rear of the cone, delay it by half a cycle, then add it to the output of the front of the cone (so they become in phase), there are those that say the transient response could be better.
I like the sound of my ported boxes just fine - in my opinion, the port gives the driver an easier time, so it will produce less distortion. Pick your poison.
There's a huge pile of designs you could choose, but for a 12' by 12' room, I'm going to guess the subwoofer needs to be reasonably compact.
Something like this may fit the bill, or you might choose to go for an 8". I use effectively a pair of those subwoofers and find them ample for home listening. The recent price hike of Neodymium means the ferrite version of the driver would be a cheaper option.
Where are you likely to buy drivers from?
Chris
PS - download winISD Alpha, follow the help file to put some drivers in, and play around with cabinet sizes.
"I would strongly recommend adding a low-cut filter to the full range"
Madisound Speaker Store
Has one.
"There is an electronic crossover (high/low pass) that is variable from 75 to 150Hz."
Madisound Speaker Store
Has one.
"There is an electronic crossover (high/low pass) that is variable from 75 to 150Hz."
Jason, I would instead build a simple 2 way passive stand mount, following an existing design. It is actually simpler than what you are considering.
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