Hi guys,
Sorry, a really boring one I know. I'm in the middle of building some overnight sensation mtm/mt's for my parents living room and need to sort a subwoofer out.
I'm looking at keeping it as close to 200gbp as possible I know this is going to be bargain bucket but they dont want anything fancy.
The choice for plate amps here in the UK is pretty slim for low end, pretty much the only one thats realistic is the Monacor SAM-300D (250W).
There's also not much choice for driver's to keep it in budget. an 8" dayton reference RSS210, The Dayton classic series and the DVC series from 8-12" or Monacor SPH series 8-12".
The room is approx 12'x12'x9'deep, I would be looking at a max volume of 100L but preferably a bit smaller. I'm thinking maybe 10" ported or 12" sealed.
The use would be 50/50 HT and music however my dad listens to quite frankly terrible music far too loud so this needs to be considered.
Do you guys have any advice for me on driver choice for this? Is this even worth it at this price range or would I be better off looking for some second hand, out the box sub?
Hope you dont mind helping me out and I greatly appreciate any advice.
Sorry, a really boring one I know. I'm in the middle of building some overnight sensation mtm/mt's for my parents living room and need to sort a subwoofer out.
I'm looking at keeping it as close to 200gbp as possible I know this is going to be bargain bucket but they dont want anything fancy.
The choice for plate amps here in the UK is pretty slim for low end, pretty much the only one thats realistic is the Monacor SAM-300D (250W).
There's also not much choice for driver's to keep it in budget. an 8" dayton reference RSS210, The Dayton classic series and the DVC series from 8-12" or Monacor SPH series 8-12".
The room is approx 12'x12'x9'deep, I would be looking at a max volume of 100L but preferably a bit smaller. I'm thinking maybe 10" ported or 12" sealed.
The use would be 50/50 HT and music however my dad listens to quite frankly terrible music far too loud so this needs to be considered.
Do you guys have any advice for me on driver choice for this? Is this even worth it at this price range or would I be better off looking for some second hand, out the box sub?
Hope you dont mind helping me out and I greatly appreciate any advice.
JBL GTO1214 (if you can find one), and a plate amp. 250w will make some noise.
Alternatively, if you can do the fan mod and hide it, a Behringer iNuke might be in budget.
Where in the UK are you?
If you're nearby we might be able to organise something.
Chris
Alternatively, if you can do the fan mod and hide it, a Behringer iNuke might be in budget.
Where in the UK are you?
If you're nearby we might be able to organise something.
Chris
a ported dvc series and a modest plate amp should work well to go with the overnight sensations, as they don't get extremely loud. should fit in a nicely sized enclosure to look the part, and be a fairly easy hook-up.
Thanks alot guys.
Chris I'm afraid I'm in Cornwall so definitely not near by haha, I honestly haven't looked at any drivers that are aimed more at cars like the JBL, I find it near impossible to find realistic figures. they are always like 50,000W super beasts (I believe that one claims 1400W?) so they scare me.
Thanks snappy that is more what I'm looking at, What I'm more curious about is the difference between the DVC series and the Classic series? The classic is more expensive and has better xmax and SPL but I never see anyone mention them? If you had to choose which would you go with?
Cheers for the input guys, it is greatly appreciated
Chris I'm afraid I'm in Cornwall so definitely not near by haha, I honestly haven't looked at any drivers that are aimed more at cars like the JBL, I find it near impossible to find realistic figures. they are always like 50,000W super beasts (I believe that one claims 1400W?) so they scare me.
Thanks snappy that is more what I'm looking at, What I'm more curious about is the difference between the DVC series and the Classic series? The classic is more expensive and has better xmax and SPL but I never see anyone mention them? If you had to choose which would you go with?
Cheers for the input guys, it is greatly appreciated
That particular JBL unit will probably survive 1400w for short durations occasionally, but it's 350w continuous rated. Don't worry, though - that just tells you how much power is needed to melt the coils. A 250w plate amp will get the cones moving.
Dayton drivers are quite hard to get in the UK - they're great value for money if you're in the right part of the world, though.
Chris
Dayton drivers are quite hard to get in the UK - they're great value for money if you're in the right part of the world, though.
Chris
I know you cant judge it by that, but I've had bad experience with drivers and amps aimed at car use. Too many 1000-2000W amps Ive opened up only to find a tiny 30W chip-amp. I'm alot wised now and understand what to look for but I do hold a grudge haha.
Finding anything in the UK is hard, I get all my stuff from europe, as long as you do a decent sized order it works out cheaper, and the site I use has all the Dayton range. I have recently built two towers and a centre speaker using the RS225/RS150/RS28. I trust the brand.
For a Dayton 12" DVC its 67 quid, for the 12" Classic series its 98 quid. Any others that look interesting are then exceeding my budget range. On paper the classic series look more appealing to me but given the DVC is dual voice coil I dont know how that would effect comparing these? Which would you go for given the prices?
Many Thanks
Finding anything in the UK is hard, I get all my stuff from europe, as long as you do a decent sized order it works out cheaper, and the site I use has all the Dayton range. I have recently built two towers and a centre speaker using the RS225/RS150/RS28. I trust the brand.
For a Dayton 12" DVC its 67 quid, for the 12" Classic series its 98 quid. Any others that look interesting are then exceeding my budget range. On paper the classic series look more appealing to me but given the DVC is dual voice coil I dont know how that would effect comparing these? Which would you go for given the prices?
Many Thanks
The JBL and corresponding Infinity lines are pretty reliable IMO. I used two Infinity 122.7ws for a long while for subwoofer duty in my car. They're in my garage at the moment awaiting when I have some spare time to build sealed subs for the living room....
JBL and infinity are both tried and true, same company after all. what i dont like in recent years with their line, is a shift that all car audio manufacturers have made and thats going to higher q designs favoring sealed boxes or necessitating big (for their size) ported enclosures. still have an old jbl gt series and a couple 1262s laying around, amazing speakers, especially considering their cost.
if delving into the dayton stuff, if you can still lay hands on the dvcs, they were a 'benchmark' for the better part of a decade. believe the 12" version was designed to be a shiva clone. the classic series gets pretty much zero love, and that likely has to do with price, when compared to equivalent priced gear such as the infinity reference that has 4-5mm more xmax and a smaller price tag. the woofers were marketed as 'replacement' speakers but have the ability to do very respectable numbers on their own, and given your needs to mate with some overnight sensations, might be worth a look and some modeling... granted they'll likely take to a larger box, but to be considered.
alternatively you can jump to the gawdy cones of car audio as their are a few companies out there making seriously decent drivers. the alpine type s comes to mind off the top of my head, but i think it's more speaker than what the project really calls for..... my 2c
if delving into the dayton stuff, if you can still lay hands on the dvcs, they were a 'benchmark' for the better part of a decade. believe the 12" version was designed to be a shiva clone. the classic series gets pretty much zero love, and that likely has to do with price, when compared to equivalent priced gear such as the infinity reference that has 4-5mm more xmax and a smaller price tag. the woofers were marketed as 'replacement' speakers but have the ability to do very respectable numbers on their own, and given your needs to mate with some overnight sensations, might be worth a look and some modeling... granted they'll likely take to a larger box, but to be considered.
alternatively you can jump to the gawdy cones of car audio as their are a few companies out there making seriously decent drivers. the alpine type s comes to mind off the top of my head, but i think it's more speaker than what the project really calls for..... my 2c
Thanks again for the help, you've convinced me to stick with the DVC turtle. That is on order and the box is drawn up.
I also ordered a Dayton rss390hf 15" for my main tower system, I'm hoping you guys wouldn't mind answering a few quick questions on that as well (didn't feel like it warranted a new thread).
I would really like to be able to switch between ported/sealed (music is the real focus here so sealed is a must, I'm looking at a 5 cubic feet volume. Does anyone know a simple way to achieve this without just plugging the port? I could do it with an actuator/hinged plate internally but I'm just curious to know what other people have done.
Does a slot port need to be flush with the baffle?
When calculating the volume of a ported enclosure you subtract the port volume, does this stand true when plugging a port for a sealed enclosure?
I appreciate your time greatly
I also ordered a Dayton rss390hf 15" for my main tower system, I'm hoping you guys wouldn't mind answering a few quick questions on that as well (didn't feel like it warranted a new thread).
I would really like to be able to switch between ported/sealed (music is the real focus here so sealed is a must, I'm looking at a 5 cubic feet volume. Does anyone know a simple way to achieve this without just plugging the port? I could do it with an actuator/hinged plate internally but I'm just curious to know what other people have done.
Does a slot port need to be flush with the baffle?
When calculating the volume of a ported enclosure you subtract the port volume, does this stand true when plugging a port for a sealed enclosure?
I appreciate your time greatly
I think if plugging the port from the outside (front baffle) then the port volume does not need to be subtracted from the enclosure. Essentially the port volume would act in parallel (e.g. add to) the main enclosure volume.
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