Hi, I just got a pair of old Leak 2020 speakers from a local recycling scheme, I managed to build 1 complete speaker (which sounds great 🙂) but the other has a blown tweeter and the driver is very stick (cone looks in good condition but I'm guessing the voice coil has warped etc).
Just wondering what to do with them - is it possible to repair the dead units? Not sure if it's worth spending money to get replacements? I'd like to get them going but failing that I'd be happy to send them on to anyone who might be able to use/fix them for the cost of postage and a beer 🙂
Thanks, Dan
Just wondering what to do with them - is it possible to repair the dead units? Not sure if it's worth spending money to get replacements? I'd like to get them going but failing that I'd be happy to send them on to anyone who might be able to use/fix them for the cost of postage and a beer 🙂
Thanks, Dan
Hi Dan
Try Ebay for parts, Also speaker driver shops might know where to source, or provide viable replacements. but ask questions you need from the seller before buying, and if on ebay observe sellers feedback. Best of luck restoring them
Cheers / Chris
Try Ebay for parts, Also speaker driver shops might know where to source, or provide viable replacements. but ask questions you need from the seller before buying, and if on ebay observe sellers feedback. Best of luck restoring them
Cheers / Chris
Thanks for the quick reply Chris, looking on eBay these speakers and spares are pretty expensive (like nearly £100 just for the driver which is too much for me). Though I did notice Wharfdale Lintons use a tweeter that looks like it might be the same as the one in my Leaks 🙂.
Best option atm seems like DIY repair - repositioning the cone on the driver and hoping the break on the tweeters is between the terminals and the coil...
Best option atm seems like DIY repair - repositioning the cone on the driver and hoping the break on the tweeters is between the terminals and the coil...
Need new tweeters now...
Sorted out the cone on the driver after having some fun taking the magnet apart - as soon as the magnet moved the pole piece stuck top place and trapped the voice coil 🙁 good learning experience! All fixed now and working like new.
Dead tweeter is a melted mess and beyond repair, reviews of these speakers seems to say the tweeters are a bit pants anyway so thinking about replacing them with soft dome units. Will probably see what tweeters I can get for cheap roughly the right size and specs (the internet thinks crossover is at 3.5khz) just to get them going and test the drivers - trying to resist spending too much time and money messing with them at the moment 😉
Sorted out the cone on the driver after having some fun taking the magnet apart - as soon as the magnet moved the pole piece stuck top place and trapped the voice coil 🙁 good learning experience! All fixed now and working like new.
Dead tweeter is a melted mess and beyond repair, reviews of these speakers seems to say the tweeters are a bit pants anyway so thinking about replacing them with soft dome units. Will probably see what tweeters I can get for cheap roughly the right size and specs (the internet thinks crossover is at 3.5khz) just to get them going and test the drivers - trying to resist spending too much time and money messing with them at the moment 😉
Hi,
Peerless LSQ-19DT 19mm soft dome Hifi tweeters PAIR | eBay
Probably your best option at a reasonable price for a x/o around 3.5KHz.
You might need additional resistors to set level, or they might just work.
rgds, sreten.
Peerless LSQ-19DT 19mm soft dome Hifi tweeters PAIR | eBay
Probably your best option at a reasonable price for a x/o around 3.5KHz.
You might need additional resistors to set level, or they might just work.
rgds, sreten.
The Internet may be wrong on the crossover frequency of 3.5kHz. I wouldn't like to say without looking at the filter, but Leak and Wharfedale often used much lower, say 1.5kHz, which helps with bass cone breakup suppression and is part of the sound. It's also why the tweeters tended to melt. 🙂
It's actually extremely hard to suggest a replacement tweeter in that case. Have a look at the crossover would be a first step. It's not hard to guess crossover frequency from that.
BTW, this is not the exact model pictured, it's a Leak Sandwich 300, but same tweeter I think. You can do some original research here, rather than some spoonfed answer based on guesswork. I am impressed with your bass fix. 😀
diyaudio member jives11 fixed up a pair of Leak 2020, but they weren't as far gone as yours:
http://mr-ives.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/mending-loudspeakers.html
It's actually extremely hard to suggest a replacement tweeter in that case. Have a look at the crossover would be a first step. It's not hard to guess crossover frequency from that.
BTW, this is not the exact model pictured, it's a Leak Sandwich 300, but same tweeter I think. You can do some original research here, rather than some spoonfed answer based on guesswork. I am impressed with your bass fix. 😀
diyaudio member jives11 fixed up a pair of Leak 2020, but they weren't as far gone as yours:
http://mr-ives.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/mending-loudspeakers.html
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FWIW, I just dug up an old post on the Wharfedale Glendale 3XP, which was not a million miles away in concept. The thread died unresolved as is often the case, but I did suggest a crossover mod to take the bass and tweeter crossover to about 2.5kHz, which most regular modern ferrofluid dome tweeters could stand. 4.7uF and 0.4mH is not TOO stressful. 🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/218727-wharfedale-glendale-3xp-fault-help-2.html#post3148936
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/218727-wharfedale-glendale-3xp-fault-help-2.html#post3148936
Hi,
If 3.5KHz is wrong then you are in a bit of a quandary.
Don't look like they'll go that low at all, no rear chambering.
rgds, sreten.
If 3.5KHz is wrong then you are in a bit of a quandary.
Don't look like they'll go that low at all, no rear chambering.
rgds, sreten.
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Thanks for all the replies and info - I really appreciate it 🙂 Have attached a pics of my 2020s, reassembling the driver and dead tweeter. I was expecting to need a jig to hold the mag, top and pole piece in alignment but just tried assembling them with cardboard spacers and it held together fine for careful reassembly and adjustment. Trapping the voice coil bent part of the former so I ended up cutting a small section out with a razor blade 🙁.
sreten - I very nearly bought those peerless tweeters, they reminded me of similar units in some JPW Gold Monitors I used to have 😀
I just picked up some JPW ML510s this eve I got off ebay for £20 and not far from me link - seemed like a bargain too good to miss and the mounting holes for the tweeters match up almost perfectly to the 2020s. The tweeters they've got appear to be basically the same spec peerless tweeter (SR 19 DT) as sreten suggested but now I've got a pair of crossovers that suit the tweeters at least. Where do you suggest I go from here? Put the tweeters and crossovers from the JPWs in the Leaks and work from there, or try modding the crossovers in the Leaks as system7 suggested?
As an aside, I'd be happy to pass on 1 working and 1 defunked leak/whardale tweeter to anyone who can make use of them 😉
Cheers, Dan.
sreten - I very nearly bought those peerless tweeters, they reminded me of similar units in some JPW Gold Monitors I used to have 😀
I just picked up some JPW ML510s this eve I got off ebay for £20 and not far from me link - seemed like a bargain too good to miss and the mounting holes for the tweeters match up almost perfectly to the 2020s. The tweeters they've got appear to be basically the same spec peerless tweeter (SR 19 DT) as sreten suggested but now I've got a pair of crossovers that suit the tweeters at least. Where do you suggest I go from here? Put the tweeters and crossovers from the JPWs in the Leaks and work from there, or try modding the crossovers in the Leaks as system7 suggested?
As an aside, I'd be happy to pass on 1 working and 1 defunked leak/whardale tweeter to anyone who can make use of them 😉
Cheers, Dan.
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Just hooked up the JPWs - they sound pretty good but seems to be tweeter doing most of the work with the the bass being surprisingly feeble. They're rear ported and sat on my desk close to a wall so not sure if this is a fair assessment but good news for the Leaks 🙂.
What you should do next, Mr. Flibble, before getting "very cross" if I remember the "Red Dwarf" allusion, is map out the crossover. A 3.3 or 4uF tweeter crossover says 3kHz or 3.5kHz crossover to me. The sort of thing you'd use with a typical 1700kHz Fs tweeter like this popular old Vifa D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-500
If the tweeter crossover capacitor is nearer 6.8 or 8uF, that suggests a lower crossover point nearer 1.5kHz and the need for some easy modifications to get a simple tweeter working nicely and not self-destructing when you push it hard.
Inevitably changing tweeters needs consideration of relative levels to get the balance right too. This is done with simple 10W wirewound resistors.
You can't just swap crossovers and hope for a good result, since every speaker is different. But it is usually quite easy to modify an existing design.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-500
If the tweeter crossover capacitor is nearer 6.8 or 8uF, that suggests a lower crossover point nearer 1.5kHz and the need for some easy modifications to get a simple tweeter working nicely and not self-destructing when you push it hard.
Inevitably changing tweeters needs consideration of relative levels to get the balance right too. This is done with simple 10W wirewound resistors.
You can't just swap crossovers and hope for a good result, since every speaker is different. But it is usually quite easy to modify an existing design.
I make that a 2.8kHz crossover which is good news for the JPW tweeters. Feel free to use them, any soft dome will do really. You can adjust treble level (if necessary) with a resistor in series with the tweeter capacitor as shown below. Doesn't matter which way round really. I see you have a spare track on the LEAK 2020 crossover to fit one in.
FWIW, Maplin still sell leaded solder for personal use which is easier to work with, melting at lower temperature.
Wilmslow Audio are quite nice to browse, because they give accurate fitting sizes.
Monacor
Good luck with this. Tell us how it goes. 🙂
FWIW, Maplin still sell leaded solder for personal use which is easier to work with, melting at lower temperature.
Wilmslow Audio are quite nice to browse, because they give accurate fitting sizes.
Monacor
Good luck with this. Tell us how it goes. 🙂
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Modded the crossover and trial fitted one of the JPW tweeters - ended up putting in 3.3R figured it should be about right and I had a load of 10R 5 watt resistors hanging around. Just realised the resistors are Metal Oxide Film ones, would that make a difference?
The modded speaker sounds good (tried it with a range of music) and very detailed but a bit bright, this is especially pronounced compared to the original one which is warmer and less tiring to listen to (I think this is what I liked about it 🙂). I'll trying upping the resistance on the crossover and playing around more soon but might this be down to cone tweeter vs dome tweeter? I think the older unit was reproducing notes that seemed a bit low for a tweeter....
Thanks again for the help system7 🙂
The modded speaker sounds good (tried it with a range of music) and very detailed but a bit bright, this is especially pronounced compared to the original one which is warmer and less tiring to listen to (I think this is what I liked about it 🙂). I'll trying upping the resistance on the crossover and playing around more soon but might this be down to cone tweeter vs dome tweeter? I think the older unit was reproducing notes that seemed a bit low for a tweeter....
Thanks again for the help system7 🙂
I was thinking about that HT-22 tweeter, have been reading some interesting discussions about it on this forum 🙂. Another possibility is a similar cheapo poly dome Monacor unit that looks like it might even perform even better SPP-90, although wouldn't mount as neatly. Attached are the pic and curve from the SPP-90 and the curve from the HT-22 from that german audio web site for comparison - what do you reccon?
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I don't know what I think about the Monacor polycone tweeter. It's a car-type tweeter, isn't it?
I should think they both have limited dispersion and output at high frequencies, but Robin Marshall feels that cone tweeters have a lot going for them.
I tried modelling a Visaton paper cone tweeter here, but it didn't leap at me as being hugely optimum. But as I say, I really don't know. 🙂
I should think they both have limited dispersion and output at high frequencies, but Robin Marshall feels that cone tweeters have a lot going for them.
I tried modelling a Visaton paper cone tweeter here, but it didn't leap at me as being hugely optimum. But as I say, I really don't know. 🙂
Here, FWIW, is how a cone tweeter looked on your model. I used the Visaton TW70 and W170S since it seems about right electrically.
It just came out that way to give the bass filter slightly less rolloff, and the tweet got wired out of phase, though that is unpredictable with a bass driver.
The third order tweeter is to give it sharper rolloff. Phase wasn't bad at all, even if only roughly matched. Input resistance to the tweeter filter is your adjustment for level.
It just came out that way to give the bass filter slightly less rolloff, and the tweet got wired out of phase, though that is unpredictable with a bass driver.
The third order tweeter is to give it sharper rolloff. Phase wasn't bad at all, even if only roughly matched. Input resistance to the tweeter filter is your adjustment for level.
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Interesting article and sim looks good 🙂 I just ordered a couple of SPP-90s that were going cheap on ebay, will try them with the crossover you suggest report back.
Cheers, Dan.
Cheers, Dan.
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The SPP-90s arrived and I couldn't resist giving one a quick listen - the sound is exactly what I was after, more finesse that the original Leak unit and none of the harshness I got from that Peerless dome unit i tried. Seems to complement the old leak driver well and 3.3R on the crossover seems about right for my ears. Still need to change the crossovers and mount the new tweeters (they are just slightly smaller in diameter than the cutout, so a bit of woodwork needed 🙂). Will report back with some pics of finished job when done 😉
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