That's an entirely different driver.
BTW that same site suggests that the 1260W is still in production, just "back-ordered to Oct 2015".
A Ciare 8 designed to work with room gain for 35hz extended bass, 74L net volume.
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Touche'. I've always thought that saddle shaped FR was off too but there is much love for the PAL12. I recall the logic is that such peaks are a HR exaggeration. Truth is, the sims you've done lately are raising the bar for me.
HR does not include box losses in its model, so peaks are likely not to measure as high as the sim suggests. However, the better you build your box, the less those box losses are, so it might be best to start off with a fairly smooth sim, rather than one that looks like that.
After a few more simulations with THAM12 and THAM10, I still don't understant what goes best with these horns. Parameters don't vary that much as the price goes up, only that they're more powerful.
I got the 804 after all, there's a nice sealed sub in the works and possibly an aperiodic. I'm still looking for a 12 inch, I'll see if they renew the stock for 1260.
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I've built the sub with GTO 804 and listened to it for the last few weeks. It sounds good, but the placement and listening position are critical. The best response I get is in a corner, which is actually under the desk, and placed directly on the floor and oriented towards the opposite corner. The bass there is accurate and precise, not really the type of bass you feel in your chest, but it's an 8inch afterall. Somewhere in the middle of the room some frequencies are absolutely gone. The same thing happens if I move the sub with the cone facing along the wall.
Other than that, I'm still looking for a 12 inch, but this time I'm absolutely sure I want to try a horn sub.
I'm able to get the 12-280/8-W at a good price, but I've also considered getting the Beyma 12MC500, which is about double the price, but better.
Other than that, I'm still looking for a 12 inch, but this time I'm absolutely sure I want to try a horn sub.
I'm able to get the 12-280/8-W at a good price, but I've also considered getting the Beyma 12MC500, which is about double the price, but better.
I've decided to make a dedicated amp for the sub, and I'm not sure which direction should I go.
The biggest problem I think is the power supply: I can get a ready-made transformer (expensive, heavy, needs high capacitance, but easy to implement), I can get a switchmode supply (cheap, small, quite powerful but limited to 12 or 24 V) or I can try and make a switchmode supply (needs time and I can't be sure it will work).
Then there's the amp - LM3886 in bridge or parallel or a discrete amp?
The biggest problem I think is the power supply: I can get a ready-made transformer (expensive, heavy, needs high capacitance, but easy to implement), I can get a switchmode supply (cheap, small, quite powerful but limited to 12 or 24 V) or I can try and make a switchmode supply (needs time and I can't be sure it will work).
Then there's the amp - LM3886 in bridge or parallel or a discrete amp?
BEYMA 12MC500 There's nothing under 40/50Hz for a sub (F10). This driver is good for a 2/3-Way.🙂
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