Hi,
Anybody know what the specs of these are, and if there are any readily available modern-day equivalents that will work in their place if I can't find OEM replacements? I blew them the other day when I accidentally bumped the volume knob too high :'(
I have a lead on getting them repaired possibly, but I want to start searching for replacements in case they're deemed beyond repair.
Thanks!
c
Anybody know what the specs of these are, and if there are any readily available modern-day equivalents that will work in their place if I can't find OEM replacements? I blew them the other day when I accidentally bumped the volume knob too high :'(
I have a lead on getting them repaired possibly, but I want to start searching for replacements in case they're deemed beyond repair.
Thanks!
c
Parts Express. I would not even try to repair them when just as good if not better can be had a lot cheaper. Do a little reading reviews and I am sure you find what you want. Advents were not known for being too efficient but if you buy one that is too bright you can pad it down.
It's not quite the original "fried egg" tweeter, but definitely a sealed back cone tweeter.
The Phenolic ring tweeter seems a US equivalent.
Phenolic Ring Tweeter Replacement for AR-4X CTS Marantz and More 8 Ohm
The old Peerless CT 62.
The Monacor HT22/8.
Visaton TW70.
Plenty to try. Adjusting level shouldn't be hard. Most people have heard of attenuators.
The Phenolic ring tweeter seems a US equivalent.
Phenolic Ring Tweeter Replacement for AR-4X CTS Marantz and More 8 Ohm
The old Peerless CT 62.
The Monacor HT22/8.
Visaton TW70.
Plenty to try. Adjusting level shouldn't be hard. Most people have heard of attenuators.
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OK, I guess I'll start looking for replacements, then.
To clarify, though, they don't seem to be of the "fried egg" style of tweeter, but are just simple paper cone tweeters on a rectangular mounting plate.
However, originality isn't of utmost importance at this point, so anything will do.
Also, regarding the inefficiency, is this related to the crossover at all? Would it be fairly trivial to find/build/install better replacements? EDIT: Is this one any good as a possible replacement?
Actually, should I consider getting different speakers altogether? I'm using these as studio monitors, so maybe they're not the best to mix with?
c
To clarify, though, they don't seem to be of the "fried egg" style of tweeter, but are just simple paper cone tweeters on a rectangular mounting plate.
However, originality isn't of utmost importance at this point, so anything will do.
Also, regarding the inefficiency, is this related to the crossover at all? Would it be fairly trivial to find/build/install better replacements? EDIT: Is this one any good as a possible replacement?
Actually, should I consider getting different speakers altogether? I'm using these as studio monitors, so maybe they're not the best to mix with?
c
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I have NO IDEA what your speakers are, beyond guessing two way, so no advice is possible. 😱
An off the shelf crossover may or may not work. We now have 3 unknowns. 😀
But what I do, is design circuits that are unfussy and easily adjusted. Below for a typical 6 inch bass and cone tweeter, 3kHz crossover. 6kHz notch. All you do is fiddle with the red resistor for tweeter level. That old classic Celestion tweeter filter, which works with next to anything. 😎
An off the shelf crossover may or may not work. We now have 3 unknowns. 😀
But what I do, is design circuits that are unfussy and easily adjusted. Below for a typical 6 inch bass and cone tweeter, 3kHz crossover. 6kHz notch. All you do is fiddle with the red resistor for tweeter level. That old classic Celestion tweeter filter, which works with next to anything. 😎
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