It’s pretty important to reduce any turbulence/resistance caused by cone movement, theoretically. I’ve never tested the difference but it makes sense to do it if you can.
So the issue is that the box is already complete so I can't route with a chamfer bit from the inside.
I was thinking of using a dovetail but (sort of like an inverse chamfer) but interested in any other suggestions to get a nice/even result (even though nobody will see it)
I was thinking of using a dovetail but (sort of like an inverse chamfer) but interested in any other suggestions to get a nice/even result (even though nobody will see it)
A dovetail may work even though the angle will be shallow. I know it might be a bit of a hackjob but one possibility is to use a jigsaw with a tilting base and slowly work your way around the openings. I know, ew right?
I think if you use the dovetail it might be hard, because you'd need to have the collet pushed all the way down flush with the base, and the shaft of the bit exposed at least 10mm to serve as a guide, if that makes any sense. I dunno how much experience you have with power tools and I'm not meaning to condescend, just that it would be pushing the limits. That was why I suggested maybe the jigsaw. I've got my pride, but if it was me I'd just hack away 😵
Yea I'm fairly an amateur, otherwise I probably wouldn't be asking here 🙂
Is there maybe a different bit I could buy that would work better ? I saw some inverted chamfer bits or would they have the same problem?
Is there maybe a different bit I could buy that would work better ? I saw some inverted chamfer bits or would they have the same problem?
Same deal, and while I might (or might not) try something as edgy as this, I wouldn't recommend it if you're not really familiar with your router and what the minimum insertion depth is for the shank, if you were going to use the shank as a guide.
Bear in mind, you're talking to a guy missing half of his left thumb😳
Sorry I don't have a more definitive answer for you, do you live anywhere near Southern Vermont?
Bear in mind, you're talking to a guy missing half of his left thumb😳
Sorry I don't have a more definitive answer for you, do you live anywhere near Southern Vermont?
I'm waiting for someone else here to chime in and say the chamfer is not necessary and let you off the hook.
Ouch! Thanks for the warning, I won't attempt unless it is a straightforward operation and sounds like a router in this situation is not. My instinct is that given the depth of the driver and how open it is, I don't think it will make much a difference.
I'm on the other coast, so unfortunately not.
I'm still interested to learn if there are any other techniques in case this does influence performance.
I'm on the other coast, so unfortunately not.
I'm still interested to learn if there are any other techniques in case this does influence performance.
I have run into a small problem so thought of posting it here to see if I can get some help.
I already have a pair of Satori MW16P-8 and TW29R. I got myself another pair of woofers to build the Adelphos MTM but I see that the only option to buy the XO is no longer there. I saw a post somewhere that Meniscus is shutting down or rather closed their operation and now I have no means to buy the XO from them. I have also dropped an email already but got no response. So was wondering how different is the X-Over from the Kairos.
I am a noob when it comes to designing a XO all by myself and I completely depended on Meniscus. Since they no longer respond, I wanted to know if there are any suggestions that i can take from here to complete the build. I still have the cabinet plan but all i need is an XO.
Regards,
Som
I already have a pair of Satori MW16P-8 and TW29R. I got myself another pair of woofers to build the Adelphos MTM but I see that the only option to buy the XO is no longer there. I saw a post somewhere that Meniscus is shutting down or rather closed their operation and now I have no means to buy the XO from them. I have also dropped an email already but got no response. So was wondering how different is the X-Over from the Kairos.
I am a noob when it comes to designing a XO all by myself and I completely depended on Meniscus. Since they no longer respond, I wanted to know if there are any suggestions that i can take from here to complete the build. I still have the cabinet plan but all i need is an XO.
Regards,
Som
I have just sent a message to Javad Shadzi on FB. Hopefully I get something moving else I’ll have to find some other option. 😞
XO deduced from the thread below,I have run into a small problem so thought of posting it here to see if I can get some help.
I already have a pair of Satori MW16P-8 and TW29R. I got myself another pair of woofers to build the Adelphos MTM but I see that the only option to buy the XO is no longer there. I saw a post somewhere that Meniscus is shutting down or rather closed their operation and now I have no means to buy the XO from them. I have also dropped an email already but got no response. So was wondering how different is the X-Over from the Kairos.
I am a noob when it comes to designing a XO all by myself and I completely depended on Meniscus. Since they no longer respond, I wanted to know if there are any suggestions that i can take from here to complete the build. I still have the cabinet plan but all i need is an XO.
Regards,
Som
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...peaker-kit-w-pe-curved-cabs-in-cherry.384311/
1.5m---0.62m----woofer +
|
20u
|
1.95R
|
ground
12u---2R------tweeter +
|
0.35m
|
ground
Attachments
Thanks for this @foxo59 and thank you @itsikhefez for the help with the xo.
I am replacing the TW29R with TW29TXN after reading a lot of good things about the textreme tweeters. Due to the high wait times, I need to wait for another month for the tweeters to arrive 😞…
I am replacing the TW29R with TW29TXN after reading a lot of good things about the textreme tweeters. Due to the high wait times, I need to wait for another month for the tweeters to arrive 😞…
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Adelphos MTM base -- extend, stands or bass module