Wakibaki, you were right.... I did get the wiring wrong for a start. 
I mistook the active leads in the socket so in effect I wired the 2 potentiometers together and leaving the circuit interrupted. This apparently caused the vibration as now its gone completely even without grounding.
After swapping the wires round, I checked that the variation in the footpedal did give a variation of resistance at the circuit board end. So far so good. However the virtual pedal so not work still!!!
When I unplug the pedal, the in-built potentiometer works fine meaning that there is no break in the continuity of the wiring since current has to flow along the wires to the closed socket to the rest of the wiring that I soldered to the circuit board.
I mistook the active leads in the socket so in effect I wired the 2 potentiometers together and leaving the circuit interrupted. This apparently caused the vibration as now its gone completely even without grounding.After swapping the wires round, I checked that the variation in the footpedal did give a variation of resistance at the circuit board end. So far so good. However the virtual pedal so not work still!!!
When I unplug the pedal, the in-built potentiometer works fine meaning that there is no break in the continuity of the wiring since current has to flow along the wires to the closed socket to the rest of the wiring that I soldered to the circuit board.
Yes.
Question: could the sliding potentiometer on the keyboard have more than 2 terminals that need to be by-passed? That in the pedal has 3...! Have you any idea of the different potentiometers that might be used in such a device as the keyboard?
I am asking before I go through the trouble of dismantelling the whole thing risking damage to the delicate circuit board!
Question: could the sliding potentiometer on the keyboard have more than 2 terminals that need to be by-passed? That in the pedal has 3...! Have you any idea of the different potentiometers that might be used in such a device as the keyboard?
I am asking before I go through the trouble of dismantelling the whole thing risking damage to the delicate circuit board!
Potentiometers usually have 3 pins, one at each end of the track (the resistor), and one connected to the wiper (the moving contact). This way you can get a rising value in either direction, clockwise or anticlockwise. I don't recall seeing one with just 2, but that does not mean they don't exist, I don't see many linear ones.
All 3 pins are usually connected in modern professional practise. You sometimes see just 2 connected in amateur or very old designs. I would expect to see all 3 pins connected in a Behringer design, because although they are comparatively cheap, they are still pretty good. I have at least 4 bits of Behringer gear within touching distance.
Be careful if you dismantle the unit. Prepare an open space where you can see anything you drop, and work in good light. Have containers ready for the parts you remove. Be gentle. Take digital photos at every stage, or at least make a note of the colour of any wires you disconnect, and where they go.
It may be easier to connect the foot pedal instead to one of the rotary controllers on your keyboard, if these are implemented as pots, and assign it as a volume control.
Depending on your exact setup you may be able to use an independent Midi pedal. Heres a design for one:-
http://www.maxmidi.com/diy/foot/index.html
I have not built this project, so I don't know if it's good.
w
All 3 pins are usually connected in modern professional practise. You sometimes see just 2 connected in amateur or very old designs. I would expect to see all 3 pins connected in a Behringer design, because although they are comparatively cheap, they are still pretty good. I have at least 4 bits of Behringer gear within touching distance.
Be careful if you dismantle the unit. Prepare an open space where you can see anything you drop, and work in good light. Have containers ready for the parts you remove. Be gentle. Take digital photos at every stage, or at least make a note of the colour of any wires you disconnect, and where they go.
It may be easier to connect the foot pedal instead to one of the rotary controllers on your keyboard, if these are implemented as pots, and assign it as a volume control.
Depending on your exact setup you may be able to use an independent Midi pedal. Heres a design for one:-
http://www.maxmidi.com/diy/foot/index.html
I have not built this project, so I don't know if it's good.
w
Tempting project but well beyond my confidence and expertise. I am also having trouble understanding how MIDI works, how to assign what and how. So assigning a rotatory control as volume control is like asking me to locate the switch in a airline cockpit that would start the engines!
I am surprised that such a keyboard could have possibly been designed without the option of plugging in a foot volume controller!!!
I'll carefully check the "linear" potentiometer as I'm sure there is something there I am missing. I assumed there are only 2 active connections to the board and the rest merely there to secure the component; I must be wrong here. I must be!
I am surprised that such a keyboard could have possibly been designed without the option of plugging in a foot volume controller!!!
I'll carefully check the "linear" potentiometer as I'm sure there is something there I am missing. I assumed there are only 2 active connections to the board and the rest merely there to secure the component; I must be wrong here. I must be!
Success!!!! I detached the 3rd pin of the linear potentiometer and connected this to the sleeve of the socket. This means that I now disconnected the potentiometer and the 3 leads are replaced by those of the pedal when this is plugged into the socket.
However, I have 2 leads swapped over as the pedal is working in reverse!
However, I have 2 leads swapped over as the pedal is working in reverse!
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