Along similar lines to what wiseoldtech just said:
If the midrange and up "sounds stunning" to you, why would you mess with that part by changing the current woofer to a bandpass and reworking the tweeter crossover? Adding a small sub and high-pass for the current woofer seems like a safer and much simpler approach if you mostly like the way it sounds as it is. If you want to tweak it to the nth degree because you enjoy the process, seems like you would have already started down that path.
Beyond that, answering what can be improved is hard to say without knowing what the current crossover and drivers are, what your capabilities are, etc. Whether you can accurately measure the current acoustic frequency response, impedance, and crossover effects being the primary things.
Changing the crossover could improve the measured performance of the woofer/tweeter section in audiophile terms, but lose the qualities of the sound you seem to enjoy. Your ears and preferences ultimately drive the decisions. Without trying some of it and listening for yourself, this is mostly speculation.
The crossover you're talking about is called mechanical crossover, with the aid of a capacitor 🙄😳
The above suggest my 'reaction' to OP's...
Indeed...
Bandpass ( and strongly deficiented, if I may permit) is in thread's title
So don't fear... The TT has already been dismantled, well, buried...so vibrations would not harm anyway.
The problem, other than the drivers ( a no problem, the OP says) is the 'cabinetry', Major One Is that It is singular!
Ok, then I stop: make two external two way speakers and use the consolettes unused space for the records
Indeed...
Bandpass ( and strongly deficiented, if I may permit) is in thread's title
So don't fear... The TT has already been dismantled, well, buried...so vibrations would not harm anyway.
The problem, other than the drivers ( a no problem, the OP says) is the 'cabinetry', Major One Is that It is singular!
Ok, then I stop: make two external two way speakers and use the consolettes unused space for the records
Or try the High efficiency way,.
Whizzered? Maybe, I was thinking of a Dayton Audio ..
Just to Say, as a possibile diversive from 'bookshelf two-way', though the extra dB for the extra Power Is a good point, contrasted by Iron Law', so a subwoofer is NOT out of the question
Whizzered? Maybe, I was thinking of a Dayton Audio ..
Just to Say, as a possibile diversive from 'bookshelf two-way', though the extra dB for the extra Power Is a good point, contrasted by Iron Law', so a subwoofer is NOT out of the question
And we still don't know the make, model, or anything about this mysterious old console.
No photos or anything.
No photos or anything.
well, this goes for 600 $
https://www.strumentimusicali.net/p...8b158lep8ZGu7xckdZHbNGkUMYMOlQARoCjigQAvD_BwE
https://www.strumentimusicali.net/p...8b158lep8ZGu7xckdZHbNGkUMYMOlQARoCjigQAvD_BwE
The electricity of the bass won’t hurt those old drivers, it’s the excursion 😉
The console in question is open-backed? Yes?
If you close the backs of the speaker cabinets with some MDF from the trash and stuff em with fiberglass. Totally not kidding about the MDF, very non resonant 😉
The super low frequencies that those drivers are having a hard time with will be mechanically attenuated by the acoustic suspension while extending clean low frequency response about an octave lower then it currently is. The trade off is efficiency.
How much fiberglass is a matter of taste. I recommend fine tuning the amount of stuffing in conjunction with adjusting the sub crossover.
More fiberglass = deeper, better controlled lows. At some point and rather suddenly, adding more fiberglass will stop making the bass any deeper, but it will continue to make it more controlled. That’s the “overstuffed” point.
In conjunction with a sub woofer, I prefer the regular woofer cabinets stuffed a bit heavy.
It’s is very important to remember acoustic suspension means sealed! Like REALLY sealed. Yellow wood glue all the seams of the old cabinet work. Use an annoying amount of screws to hold the back on. Notice the air blowing past the back while you’re fine tuning the stuffing? When you think you have the stuffing how you want it, remove a handful to unscientifically compensate for the escaping air and glue the back on. If you compensated correctly it will sound even better!
Good luck!
The console in question is open-backed? Yes?
If you close the backs of the speaker cabinets with some MDF from the trash and stuff em with fiberglass. Totally not kidding about the MDF, very non resonant 😉
The super low frequencies that those drivers are having a hard time with will be mechanically attenuated by the acoustic suspension while extending clean low frequency response about an octave lower then it currently is. The trade off is efficiency.
How much fiberglass is a matter of taste. I recommend fine tuning the amount of stuffing in conjunction with adjusting the sub crossover.
More fiberglass = deeper, better controlled lows. At some point and rather suddenly, adding more fiberglass will stop making the bass any deeper, but it will continue to make it more controlled. That’s the “overstuffed” point.
In conjunction with a sub woofer, I prefer the regular woofer cabinets stuffed a bit heavy.
It’s is very important to remember acoustic suspension means sealed! Like REALLY sealed. Yellow wood glue all the seams of the old cabinet work. Use an annoying amount of screws to hold the back on. Notice the air blowing past the back while you’re fine tuning the stuffing? When you think you have the stuffing how you want it, remove a handful to unscientifically compensate for the escaping air and glue the back on. If you compensated correctly it will sound even better!
Good luck!
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